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Doesn’t say, but must have been a V-12, as the club sedan is a 12…and a nice car, it appears…..

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Time on earth and money. Old story, fellow laying on his deathbed, daughter holding his hand, and he’s crying. Father, are you that sad to be leaving this earth, she asks. No, he says tearfully, but my last dollar is in my pants pocket, and now I’ll never be able to spend it….

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Bill, I’ve been fooling with old cars for over 50 years, and a member of the PAS since the 1970’s.

In my experience with a lot of different clubs, I feel you will not find any better, nicer, and more knowledgeable group of people, all willing to help you in any way they can. You’ve named a few, but there are a lot more!

Great to see you in the club, ummm, that is, Society!

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Yes. I like the lose money gambit, is that like declaring gambling loses? You gamble every time you buy an old car, right?

In the 1960s I was in my teens, and that crazy kid buying the old cars. Now the IRS looks at me as a wise investor?? I’m still crazy….

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Here’s what the Egge website states:

“Bob Egge and his sister Kathryn Weaver are third generation owners of Egge Machine Company, who took the bold step of bringing in a professional, experienced manager, Ernie Silvers, to guide the firm to the next level of professional growth. As CEO and President, Ernie is leading the company to new heights, while preserving the legacy of innovation and quality established so long ago. “

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I’m one of those guys on the Egge pistons, they seemed to work OK back in the 70s and 80s, now as Ed states they are junk. I let my engine guy talk me into Egge on my ’31 about 15 years ago. One piston lasted all of about 10 miles after rebuild.

Arias makes a great piston, too pretty to hide in an engine bore. I have a set for a 1910 Buick Model 16 sitting on my shelf, getting ready to go into the jugs. I’ve not tried the Ross.

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I have a rough draft of set of instructions done, if anyone wants a copy email me at [email protected]

I posted in the Emporium. I’ve found that this extrusion also works on the stationary back window in the rear vent window assembly. Thus, the 15 feet is enough to do both rear windows.

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Wow, didn’t know I was starting a price war! I just went to the first site that showed the type of thing I was talking about….but you guys are quick!

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Instead of going to all that trouble, why not just buy a compact charging system? I have one of the attached, it will charge up your phone for days, and if it’s fully charged will start a dead battery 12V car with no problem..never tried it on a 6V!

http://www.amazon.com/Winplus-Jump-Start-Portable-Power/dp/B01LXDIO79

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“David, Mitch is saying March for my engine. Not holding my breath (too much)”

Bob….HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA…..

Oh, I mean, hope he finishes it! Only took 7 years for one of my engines. I like him like a long lost relative, but time doesn’t mean much to him….

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….and yes, I used a lot of different clamps just to spice up the picture…I actually do have two clamps, somewhere, that match, I think…

I believe this extrusion is adaptable to a lot of different models, after working with it, please contact me, I can even send you a small sample if you might have a use for it…thanks David C.

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Applying upright to frame. Stationary window in frame has new rubber too, a stock item from McMaster Carr which only needs a minor modification to fit. I use thick cardboard inside the groove to clamp to, so it doesn’t deform the outer rubber.

Will post pictures when complete. Thanks dc

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old and cleaned frame

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upright with one side cut

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Thanks, Jim! I have a lot of respect for people who do projects like this, I have a good bit of money in it with no guarantee of return.

Am fitting the first window now. Made a special tool to cut the one leg off, then it needs a little sanding to be real nice. Fitting up the first one, test fitting all around and putting upright in place, I’ll post pictures.

There are a couple of little tricks I’m learning about this, I’ll put together a set of pictures and a little “how to” for future generations!

After working with this rubber, I wish I’d done it for the front windows, too. I think it would be a better fit. The Steele rubber is not only expensive, but seems too big, and vent windows barely fit the front.

thanks David C.

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Having trouble posting pictures of rubber, email me and I’ll send them to you if interested thanks David C.

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Rubber is here. I’ve lost my emails that I couple of you sent, so please contact me again.

One short leg of the H will need to be trimmed where the vent window opens. See pictures. A razor blade easily cuts this rubber. I test sanded with 320 grit and it cuts it, but leaves more of a matte finish. If you’re good with a razor blade you may not need to sand.

This was made using dimensions for 1934/35 sedan rear window, it may work on other years. If you need the dimensional drawing contact me. This is for the opening window only, the stationary part of the window (as on an 840) is held in with an available style rubber.

$110 which includes postage in the continental US. 15 feet, an 840 needs about 7 feet for two windows, so enough to either experiment with or do two cars. Note this is a do it yourself project, what you get is the H shaped rubber, you install and cut to fit.

Thanks! [email protected] 540-5332885

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I’m not the expert on 1929’s, but I would say that they would definitely not be polished brass.

From your picture of the original, it appears they were chromed, then the band and the area around the lettering painted black, but that’s just judging from the picture.

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The correct motor does have the arm so that you can manually operate the motor. The brackets that come out the side of the motor are threaded, so the three holes in your windshield are two for the machine screws that hold the wiper in place (and are threaded into brackets) and one center hole for the shaft, to which the wiper arm mounts.

The original machine screws that hold the wiper in place, by the way, had snaps on the outer end, to which the front top flap snaps. The rounded portion of the wiper is mounted facing up, and the wiper arms at rest are both pointed toward the middle of the car.

The problem with buying even that expensive set is that you don’t know if they’ll operate, nor do you know if they can be MADE to operate. The pot metal they’re constructed of bubbles, and too many bubbles and you can’t clean out the inside enough to make the vacuum operate. Also, getting them plated is another whole can of worms, as they need to be prepared both before and after plating if there’s any chance of them working afterwards.

I recently had a long conversation with Mr. Jaquith out west who rebuilds these things, so it’s a subject I’m now well versed in!

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The fuel gauge face is a repro, if it’s the same stamping as the temperature gauge, the fellow could silk screen the temperature info on one….

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