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Great parade float, and the picture of the dealership sure makes you wonder where the emblem in the top front of the building went, it appears to have been removed very carefully and replaced with newer brick….

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Shucks, Peter, I’m so sorry you were “taken” on that watch…I’d give you $30 just so you don’t feel bad!

Shucks, I actually would like to have one, if anyone has a spare! I’m a sucker for anything that says Pierce.

The “fake” article is in the works, I have two other articles upcoming in the Arrow, they’re fun to write and research!

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I don’t think it’s brass, but it’s some kind of plating.

Your question prompted me to take a closer look. The reproduction is slightly thicker, and in fact, when weighed on a postal scale, the original is 0.5 ounces and the reproduction is 0.6 ounces.

To Ed’s point, I’m in the process of writing an article for the ARROW about fakes and reproductions.

Things that have been reproduced include 1901-1911 Commemorative Medal, Picnic pinback, pocket watches (as Ed states) and fobs, stock certificates, and of course hood ornaments. There is also a lot of literature that’s been reprinted, including “The Story of Pierce Arrow” large format book, 1910 24 page glossy sales brochure, 1915 and 1919 sales brochures, and others.

I recently acquired some interesting things from the estate of one of the founders of the PAS, and based on some things I’m finding there may be more items to add to the list, still researching.

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You can also tell from the front, the repro has a slightly larger hexagon, and the enameling is different, but you really need to have them side by side to determine this. Again, the repro is in the middle of this picture.

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As Greg states, the back tells the story. The reproductions will have a flat back with no markings, although there may be a “shadow” of a makers mark from when they copied the size. Originals will either have a makers mark, or will have a dealer’s name. The dealer’s name is much harder to find, and that’s why the one you mention went high, it’s a Foss-Hughes dealer give-away. I’m a serious buyer of Pierce memorabilia, and I bought it by the way.

Shown is an original on the left (with silk band, they came with this or strap), a repro in the middle, and a dealer (C.H. Reeves, Baltimore) on the right.

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No Pierce part is safe around Ed, that’s for sure! He was keeping an eye on my 1903 engine at one point, he really liked it, and I’d call him and his comment would be “Uh, what engine??”…..

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Doesn’t say, but must have been a V-12, as the club sedan is a 12…and a nice car, it appears…..

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Time on earth and money. Old story, fellow laying on his deathbed, daughter holding his hand, and he’s crying. Father, are you that sad to be leaving this earth, she asks. No, he says tearfully, but my last dollar is in my pants pocket, and now I’ll never be able to spend it….

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Bill, I’ve been fooling with old cars for over 50 years, and a member of the PAS since the 1970’s.

In my experience with a lot of different clubs, I feel you will not find any better, nicer, and more knowledgeable group of people, all willing to help you in any way they can. You’ve named a few, but there are a lot more!

Great to see you in the club, ummm, that is, Society!

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Yes. I like the lose money gambit, is that like declaring gambling loses? You gamble every time you buy an old car, right?

In the 1960s I was in my teens, and that crazy kid buying the old cars. Now the IRS looks at me as a wise investor?? I’m still crazy….

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Here’s what the Egge website states:

“Bob Egge and his sister Kathryn Weaver are third generation owners of Egge Machine Company, who took the bold step of bringing in a professional, experienced manager, Ernie Silvers, to guide the firm to the next level of professional growth. As CEO and President, Ernie is leading the company to new heights, while preserving the legacy of innovation and quality established so long ago. “

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I’m one of those guys on the Egge pistons, they seemed to work OK back in the 70s and 80s, now as Ed states they are junk. I let my engine guy talk me into Egge on my ’31 about 15 years ago. One piston lasted all of about 10 miles after rebuild.

Arias makes a great piston, too pretty to hide in an engine bore. I have a set for a 1910 Buick Model 16 sitting on my shelf, getting ready to go into the jugs. I’ve not tried the Ross.

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I have a rough draft of set of instructions done, if anyone wants a copy email me at [email protected]

I posted in the Emporium. I’ve found that this extrusion also works on the stationary back window in the rear vent window assembly. Thus, the 15 feet is enough to do both rear windows.

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Wow, didn’t know I was starting a price war! I just went to the first site that showed the type of thing I was talking about….but you guys are quick!

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Instead of going to all that trouble, why not just buy a compact charging system? I have one of the attached, it will charge up your phone for days, and if it’s fully charged will start a dead battery 12V car with no problem..never tried it on a 6V!

http://www.amazon.com/Winplus-Jump-Start-Portable-Power/dp/B01LXDIO79

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“David, Mitch is saying March for my engine. Not holding my breath (too much)”

Bob….HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA…..

Oh, I mean, hope he finishes it! Only took 7 years for one of my engines. I like him like a long lost relative, but time doesn’t mean much to him….

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….and yes, I used a lot of different clamps just to spice up the picture…I actually do have two clamps, somewhere, that match, I think…

I believe this extrusion is adaptable to a lot of different models, after working with it, please contact me, I can even send you a small sample if you might have a use for it…thanks David C.

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Applying upright to frame. Stationary window in frame has new rubber too, a stock item from McMaster Carr which only needs a minor modification to fit. I use thick cardboard inside the groove to clamp to, so it doesn’t deform the outer rubber.

Will post pictures when complete. Thanks dc

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old and cleaned frame

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upright with one side cut

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