[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

You can also tell from the front, the repro has a slightly larger hexagon, and the enameling is different, but you really need to have them side by side to determine this. Again, the repro is in the middle of this picture.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

As Greg states, the back tells the story. The reproductions will have a flat back with no markings, although there may be a “shadow” of a makers mark from when they copied the size. Originals will either have a makers mark, or will have a dealer’s name. The dealer’s name is much harder to find, and that’s why the one you mention went high, it’s a Foss-Hughes dealer give-away. I’m a serious buyer of Pierce memorabilia, and I bought it by the way.

Shown is an original on the left (with silk band, they came with this or strap), a repro in the middle, and a dealer (C.H. Reeves, Baltimore) on the right.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

No Pierce part is safe around Ed, that’s for sure! He was keeping an eye on my 1903 engine at one point, he really liked it, and I’d call him and his comment would be “Uh, what engine??”…..

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Doesn’t say, but must have been a V-12, as the club sedan is a 12…and a nice car, it appears…..

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Time on earth and money. Old story, fellow laying on his deathbed, daughter holding his hand, and he’s crying. Father, are you that sad to be leaving this earth, she asks. No, he says tearfully, but my last dollar is in my pants pocket, and now I’ll never be able to spend it….

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Bill, I’ve been fooling with old cars for over 50 years, and a member of the PAS since the 1970’s.

In my experience with a lot of different clubs, I feel you will not find any better, nicer, and more knowledgeable group of people, all willing to help you in any way they can. You’ve named a few, but there are a lot more!

Great to see you in the club, ummm, that is, Society!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Yes. I like the lose money gambit, is that like declaring gambling loses? You gamble every time you buy an old car, right?

In the 1960s I was in my teens, and that crazy kid buying the old cars. Now the IRS looks at me as a wise investor?? I’m still crazy….

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Here’s what the Egge website states:

“Bob Egge and his sister Kathryn Weaver are third generation owners of Egge Machine Company, who took the bold step of bringing in a professional, experienced manager, Ernie Silvers, to guide the firm to the next level of professional growth. As CEO and President, Ernie is leading the company to new heights, while preserving the legacy of innovation and quality established so long ago. “

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I’m one of those guys on the Egge pistons, they seemed to work OK back in the 70s and 80s, now as Ed states they are junk. I let my engine guy talk me into Egge on my ’31 about 15 years ago. One piston lasted all of about 10 miles after rebuild.

Arias makes a great piston, too pretty to hide in an engine bore. I have a set for a 1910 Buick Model 16 sitting on my shelf, getting ready to go into the jugs. I’ve not tried the Ross.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I have a rough draft of set of instructions done, if anyone wants a copy email me at [email protected]

I posted in the Emporium. I’ve found that this extrusion also works on the stationary back window in the rear vent window assembly. Thus, the 15 feet is enough to do both rear windows.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Wow, didn’t know I was starting a price war! I just went to the first site that showed the type of thing I was talking about….but you guys are quick!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Instead of going to all that trouble, why not just buy a compact charging system? I have one of the attached, it will charge up your phone for days, and if it’s fully charged will start a dead battery 12V car with no problem..never tried it on a 6V!

http://www.amazon.com/Winplus-Jump-Start-Portable-Power/dp/B01LXDIO79

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

“David, Mitch is saying March for my engine. Not holding my breath (too much)”

Bob….HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA…..

Oh, I mean, hope he finishes it! Only took 7 years for one of my engines. I like him like a long lost relative, but time doesn’t mean much to him….

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

….and yes, I used a lot of different clamps just to spice up the picture…I actually do have two clamps, somewhere, that match, I think…

I believe this extrusion is adaptable to a lot of different models, after working with it, please contact me, I can even send you a small sample if you might have a use for it…thanks David C.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Applying upright to frame. Stationary window in frame has new rubber too, a stock item from McMaster Carr which only needs a minor modification to fit. I use thick cardboard inside the groove to clamp to, so it doesn’t deform the outer rubber.

Will post pictures when complete. Thanks dc

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

old and cleaned frame

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

upright with one side cut

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Thanks, Jim! I have a lot of respect for people who do projects like this, I have a good bit of money in it with no guarantee of return.

Am fitting the first window now. Made a special tool to cut the one leg off, then it needs a little sanding to be real nice. Fitting up the first one, test fitting all around and putting upright in place, I’ll post pictures.

There are a couple of little tricks I’m learning about this, I’ll put together a set of pictures and a little “how to” for future generations!

After working with this rubber, I wish I’d done it for the front windows, too. I think it would be a better fit. The Steele rubber is not only expensive, but seems too big, and vent windows barely fit the front.

thanks David C.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Having trouble posting pictures of rubber, email me and I’ll send them to you if interested thanks David C.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Rubber is here. I’ve lost my emails that I couple of you sent, so please contact me again.

One short leg of the H will need to be trimmed where the vent window opens. See pictures. A razor blade easily cuts this rubber. I test sanded with 320 grit and it cuts it, but leaves more of a matte finish. If you’re good with a razor blade you may not need to sand.

This was made using dimensions for 1934/35 sedan rear window, it may work on other years. If you need the dimensional drawing contact me. This is for the opening window only, the stationary part of the window (as on an 840) is held in with an available style rubber.

$110 which includes postage in the continental US. 15 feet, an 840 needs about 7 feet for two windows, so enough to either experiment with or do two cars. Note this is a do it yourself project, what you get is the H shaped rubber, you install and cut to fit.

Thanks! [email protected] 540-5332885

[Author]

Posts