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OK thanks, with the above responses and a phone call I received, I believe I’ll proceed..it takes 5 weeks to get rubber made, so will get going on it…thanks!
So sorry to hear of her passing, I didn’t know her, but have admired Fay for a while for being such a gentleman.
Is there a memorial fund set up, possibly the Museum/Foundation?
I remember seeing the spray on chrome video with Leno, interesting, as he mentions might be an option for interior components…
The short answer is that your carburetor is most likely not jetted correctly, and you’re running a very rich air/fuel mixture.
I’m sure the better mechanics will jump in! But the clues you mention sure point to a carb problem…
Close up…
Greg’s the one to go for on mechanical questions!
As for straps and top parts, if Karl can’t help you, try Antique Top Hardware Company, they have straps and buckles of all kinds, and can custom make what you need…
25K is what the buy it now price was … and according to Ebay it was sold for that…
Bob, thanks for heads up, but I’m not really in the market for another car now….my project list is too long and life is too short!
I’d bet few people have seen the vacuum cylinder and master cylinder that actuate the trailer brakes. This combination unit is mounted at the front inside of the trailer, underneath a seat and next to the jack. The jack is also internal to the trailer ( that is, inside the skin).
I have no problem keeping it and restoring, but the tow vehicle will need to have a vacuum fitting and control of some kind. Easy on a late Pierce! Thanks Stu for showing me the perfect tow vehicle!
I’d add that the mid thirties cars, with Stewart Warner mechanical brakes, and the 36-38 vacuum assist brakes, do not need improvement by upgrade…just get the original system working, and it’s more than sufficient. The S-W system does take a little getting used to, as it depends on momentum, and at very slow speed can be a little interesting.
My 1931 has huge brake drums, tool steel, and I think I measured at one time 16 feet (yes, sixteen feet) of brake lining…so adjustment is the key, and my car will lock brakes if needed, so make what you have work…
OK, thanks, Ed…I’ll get with you on the setup….that’s be great to keep it original….meanwhile, I’ve almost convinced my very understanding wife, who really likes the Travelodge, that we need a 36-38 Pierce to go with it!
And yes, I realize how ironic the question is after my car brake comments; but at the time of manufacture, Pierce cars had vacuum actuated brakes, too, so vacuum trailer brakes made sense then…….
Yes, I’m one of the old timers who just don’t get this.
One reason I’ve collected and driven antique cars for over 50 years is to experience what the cars were then, how they acted, how they drove, all their little idiosyncrasies. That’s what makes them special, and each car is a little different.
That character is lost when the car is “improved” with modifications. A properly set up, original, car, can be a pleasure to drive, but it takes some effort to make sure all parts aren’t worn out and everything is adjusted correctly. I once drove a 1911 Buick, rear wheel brakes, and it had the best braking I’ve ever felt on an early car because it was correctly done.
I know, to each his own, but driving a Pierce Arrow with power steering, disc brakes, and air conditioning, would be like living in a remodeled, modernized, Frank Lloyd Wright house….
Greg, that’s a good point.
I always fuss at my kids, we’ll be on vacation somewhere and they’ll post photos saying where we are and the whole family is there…announcing to the world that we’re not home and the house is empty….
Speaking of the Pierce site on Facebook, a ’36 convertible coupe was pictured on there at a meet in Spain…it’s my old “train wreck” car, hit by a train in the early 1950’s, convertible tub moved to a low mileage club sedan chassis and fenders, in fact the cowl was even from the club sedan, modified to fit the convertible body…beautifully restored now…It was too big a project for me….
Does anyone know to whom the Derro Silver Arrow sold?
Or, to put it another way, PAS member, museum, private party, or??
I would never drill holes in the original radiator shell.
This stone guard has two rubber bumpers at the top, and two unusual spring leafs that come up from the bottom.
Interesting discussion, though…thanks!
I had another, repro, stone guard a while back, but it had very heavy mesh.
This one has the finer mesh as Bill’s picture shows, and actually looks better.
The heavy mesh one made the car look like a replica…
I might try it for a while, will need to fabricate some brackets to support from crossbar, with rubber bumpers against shell….I don’t want to drill any holes….
As far as telling the price, doesn’t matter, if I go first, my wife will have the “big sale”” and it can go for fair value!”
Well, my understanding is that four do exist, I think the group discussed this in a previous thread. Three are well known and one is “hidden” in a private collection, as you say. The fifth one was apparently destroyed somewhere along the way…
Stu knows the story, but I guess I’ll tell the rest of it here, too.
I’d arranged the financing for this car from a guy outside the auction venue, on a corner, Guido I think his name was….
So could get the money, but the vig was a little much and I could never afford to show it after paying each week…so, another dream lost…
Oh well…
