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Funny…I haven’t heard that compliment (G&S) for a number of years, but it’s a good one….
Years ago you could walk Hershey and really make some good Pierce finds, today they are few and far between (of course Pierce Row has a lot of stuff, but I’m talking finding things from “outsiders”!).
Still fun to look though. A couple of years ago I was in an area with next to no vendors, turned the corner and saw a glass display case, and inside a Pierce employee badge…it was soon in my pocket…so things are still to be found!
Hope you get to go and enjoy!
Jak, I agree….today’s standards would have demanded her grin/smile be straight, for example…
For a “production” car, there would not have been the attention to detail when painting the chassis as there would have been painting the car body. The original finish probably looked fine, but was not anywhere near the show car standards that the show car circuit demands these days.
I’d bet that a car fresh from the factory, magically transported to the show field now, would score 95 or so points. Just an opinion of course.
The exception would be a chassis or a major car show vehicle made then, when attention to detail and finish would be critical to show off the marque….
Yes, the one I have is wood grained with the Pierce logo in the center in chrome and black…no problem…as mentioned it’s part of my memorabilia collection and doesn’t have to go anywhere, but if it could help someone out, it could be deemed “surplus to my needs”” and reside elsewhere..”
Pierce brake drums of that period can’t be “turned” on a lathe with a cutting tool, they must be ground….they are made of some special steel….if you lay one on the floor, drum opening up, and tap with a wrench, it’s the prettiest bell sound you can hear….
I agree I’d change linings before I’d remove metal….
I sent you some pictures of a very nice ashtray I’d consider selling….right now it’s just collecting dust in my Pierce memorabilia collection….thanks dc
No, I don’t have any parts…back in 2008 I actually found a great four for sale, but it exceeded my budget…so I’ve pretty much given up on owning a Pierce motorcycle…oh well, can’t kiss all the girls…
Did you receive my email with diagram attached?
I had a problem with my ’31, with water being pushed out of radiator, particularly when letting off accelerator after a run. The radiator was new (thanks to an aggressive radiator man ruining a good original one)so it had flow, but still couldn’t handle the volume of water being pushed to top tank.
My solution was to take a freeze plug the same outside diameter as the inside diameter of the upper hose, drill a 5/8 inch hole in it, and insert.
Car has run cool ever since, never loses water, even in a recent 100 mile run in 95 degree heat.
It once foamed, but that was because the grease was gone out of water pump and it was pulling in air, new grease and problem solved.
I have one, will try to figure out how to email it to you…
What a great find, and a great body style…..nice!!
That’s one too Minnie puns, Ed…….
A “left over” LeBaron body, or just a left over Pierce body (my understanding is that most convertible sedans were Pierce design, built by LeBaron shops, delivered in the white to Pierce factory, thus a body can be LeBaron built but not a Lebaron body….whew, that could be confusing!)
I’ve been watching this car too, and though I couldn’t afford it without major collection change, wondered why it hadn’t sold, as it’s somewhat attractive and Tom is saying by LeBaron….
Interesting update, these lenses are now listed in the “Parts and Services”” directory…..”
I believe these are the easiest of the headlamp lenses to find for Pierce.
Numbers are Multibeam 919661 (left) and 919662 (right).
These are the same lenses as used on 1936 Oldsmobile, and as such are fairly common. Be careful of anyone asking very high prices for them.
I bought my first car (or should say, my Dad bought it for me), in 1964, when I was 13 years old. It was a 1931 Chevrolet, I restored it and drove it to high school and used it some at college, still have it.
In 1965, there was an indoor car show at a coliseum in my hometown. There were a few people there from New Orleans, one of whom owned and displayed a 1931 Pierce phaeton. I fell in love with that car, and have a picture of me gazing at it longingly at the show. Little did I know that 20 years later, the gentleman would sell it to me. I’ve owned numerous other Pierces, including a production Silver Arrow 12 and a ’35 coupe, but the phaeton is the one I’ve kept, and will own it ’till the end….
Styling, engineering quality, unique with lights….and just a great car…attracted me to the Pierce Arrows…
Shucks, I can’t match the time owned except with my 1931 Chevrolet, next year will be 50 years.
My ’31 Pierce phaeton, well, I first met it 47 years ago, but only bought it 29 years ago….
Time flies like an arrow, fruit flies like a banana…..
Yes, Studebaker used the same ball bearing system, and it was promoted in their advertising. If you Google the topic you can find an article that discusses the testing that the Studebaker engineers did on the system.
I don’t know what other cars other than Pierce and Studebaker used these shackles, but Fafnir advertised at the time that kits were available to convert any make to the system.
One point made in this discussion was that there is very little travel for the balls themselves, thus a dimple in the race may just be the travel range, not a “failure” of the system. I would bet that, over the 80 years since they’ve been in place, more bearings have “failed” due to corrosion and non-lubrication than due to wear or breakage.
I agree that most regular garages would not service ball bearing spring shackles, but I bet the Pierce dealerships did…..from a business standpoint a service manager was probably telling his mechanics “look at the odometer, 20K 40K 60K let’s work on those shackles and generate income!!……and I agree with Bob, who has taken a sound engineering approach to the discussion, as did the original engineers……..
