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I give up for tonight! Darren, I;ll send an email tomorrow.
Still didn’t post! A long trailer like Ed;s or a gooseneck will get you unwanted law enforcement attention because they exceed 10,000 lbs. Better to get, for example, 2 axles at 6,000 lns each downrated to
Oops, my 2nd paragraph didn’t post.
Bought new, trailers can bear a downrated GVWR rating sticker to
Don;t forget that if a trailer is rated at more than 9,999 lbs. gross, you will need a Class A commercial or non-commercial license to operate it on the road–at least in Calif where Darren and I are, The Class A requires a special physical exam annually. Class A non-commercials don’t need an electronic log book, thank God.
Bought new, trailers can bear a
Kevin, I *run* 1129s (21 cp) in both tail and stop/backup in my 840A, but I believe they originally were 63 (3 cp) for tail and maybe 81 (15 cp) in stop/backup. I haven’t tried LEDs yet, but the 1129s make a terrific light show! Tail only showing in the photo.
Ryan, I think you did the next best thing to dropping the pan.
More than 25 years ago, I acquired my first Pierce, a Series 80 sedan, from its owner of 38 years but the car had only been run in place in a barn very occasionally for 15 years. He did tell me he ran non-detergent oil. I knew I didn’t have time to drop the pan in the near term, I got it hot, drained the oil, and added 3 qts cheap detergent oil + 6 qts non-detergent. I changed the oil after 200 miles, examined it carefully (no chunks/bits of debris), then installed 6 qts of detergent + 3 of non-detergent–and ran that 400 miles before a hot drain and a full detergent refill. A year later I finally had time to drop the pan and found minimal sludge but some occlusion of the oil pump pickup screen. At that point I did a thorough interior cleaning. That process may have been overkill, but the peace of mind (see my comment above) was worth it!
It’s well worth paying close attention to your oil pressure gauge at all times. If gauge readings change suddenly, check out the cause promptly.
By the way, I had a chance to look over your car at the NE Indiana Meet last year, and I love it! You hit a home run with that one!
The engine number is definitely a 1936. Important: Does the block have all nine main bearing caps?
With or without the diode addition to the cutout, it’s a Best Practice to get in the habit of eyeballing the ammeter immediately after engine shutdown to be sure the needle remains at zero. If at discharge (and no current draws such as lights left on), the cutout points are stuck, in which case immediately disconnect the battery and remedy the condition.
Greg, my friend Schultz (whom you know) restored a period pedal car that was a spitting image of a 1925 Packard runabout, complete with working headlights. About 30 years ago, he entered the restored pedal car in the late, great Silverado Concours as a real car–which resulted in a tremendously popular pedal car class being implemented the following year.
Jim, this is really excellent and valuable information. Thank you! Can you share the source of these spring sets?
But it brought to mind Bill Crumrine’s comment about the individual front seats as used in Broughams and production Silver Arrow coupes: “Like trying to drive while seated on a beach ball!”””
Dry weather, and PAVEMENT? How the times have changed….
Dave leaves a multitude of friends and admirers, a stronger PAS and Pierce-Arrow Foundation and Museum for his superb leadership.
As Oivind says, 48-B-4 or -5. Series 5 also had the hood vents. Series 51 (and 31) did not, although some say they could be ordered as optional equipment.
Looks like a 7-pass touring to me as well.
Let me add this to Jim’s sage advice: Wrap your hand around the HEAD of the 1/4 drive ratchet and don’t use the length of the handle. Over time, you will have to snug all these bolts up perhaps four times. Err on the not-so-tight side and re-snug several times.
Stu, while preparing for the seal replacement, after unbolting the rear u-joint, try wiggling the driveshaft while another person watches the back of the OD for shaft wobble within the OD housing. And again try to wiggle the OD shaft after the driveshaft is completely removed. I don’t expect to find any wiggle/wobble, but if you do that’s VERY serious and requires replacement of the bushing with a bearing.
You’ve driven the car enough to know how much / how frequently there is any clash when engaging OD, so plant that firmly in your memory now. If the frequency or amount of clash increases, “just do it!”” That approx 3/4-inch thick OD clutch gear with 8 “”dogs”” is the hardest part to find in good condition.”
Or just add the tools for special display events or for SCCA judging–they inspect for tools, but PAS does not.
Has the rear OD shaft factory bushing been replaced? That is the cause of the demise of so many overdrives as the “dogs” (can’t think of the correct term) of the OD gear break, because the separate trans and overdrive shafts get out of alignment due to bushing wear at the rear of the OD. Remove the OD (don’t need to pull the trans itself), replace the bushing with a bearing and machine the case to fit, then use a modern lip seal.
I’m sure Bob Koch can give you much more complete and accurate info.
Michael, DEIONIZED water (often sold at grocery stores) is probably hungry for ions from surrounding materials. DISTILLED water pure, without minerals, and is specified for use in steam irons in CPAP machines (no I don’t use the latter, and the former only rarely in my retirement 
).
Don’t take my word for it–Mr. Google is our friend, sometimes.
Dave, the Gano is NOT suitable for S80/81 because those cars have a very short upper hose between the inlet of the radiator and the cast neck we’ve been talking about–and that hose length is much too short for a Gano plastic housing, unless they’ve recently developed a real “shorty” version. I just measured the upper radiator hose on my S80 sedan and it is 3.5 inches long INCLUDING the overlaps for clamping on the neck and the radiator inlet. In fact, when installing a new (stiff) upper radiator hose I have to remove the neck from the cylinder head and use that leverage to wrestle the assembly back into place.
I’m certainly in favor of buying from our advertisers when their product is suitable for the specific application. I use the stockings for all my vehicles, including modern, and find they catch more debris than the Ganos.
Jack, I suggest that you use the ankle-high stockings (cheap ones are fine–I bought a box of 20 for less than $7 at Walgreens). Install as per Greg’s instruction.
Nalcool is no more–it is now Pencool. Use Pencool 2000 with NO anti-freeze and Pencool 3000 if you have any amount of anti-freeze in your system. Amazon is the best source I’ve found: I just received a shipment of six 64 oz jugs (half-gallon–most convenient size for me) which cost a bit less than $130. I’m servicing several vehicles, and six jugs will last me about five years. To save you doing math as to dosage, for the initial fill add 1 oz of Pencool per quart of cooling system capacity. A S80/81 has a 26 quart system, so you’ll need 26 oz for the initial fill. I carry a one-gallon jug of water on tour pre-loaded with 4 oz of Pencool. Top off ONLY when hot to avoid overfilling.
Jack, when you FIRST have the cooling system together, I suggest you run a cooling system cleaner with tap water AND a stocking filter to catch all the stuff that has been loosened but not removed so far. Ed Minnie is a proponent of an EvapoRust product for cleaning cooling systems as you drive; please chime in, Ed. Whenever you’ve run a cleaning chemical through the system, change the stocking because it may have been weakened by the cleaning chemical.
When I acquire a “new” car, one of my first actions is to assess the cooling system condition and add a stocking filter. After 300 miles or so, drain off enough coolant (you can re-use), and remove and inspect the stocking. How much debris is in the stocking will inform your choice of the next drain-and-clean-the-stocking interval. Rinse out the stocking and reinstall. Especially for little-used cars, repeated heating and cooling cycles will break loose a lot of debris from the block which, without a filter, would be trying to clog your radiator. This is even more critical when you’ve had a radiator recored or professionally cleaned.
Last month I changed out the radiator hoses on my 1930 roadster (after 10-12 years), and changed the stocking as well. The stocking was intact and had only the tiniest amount of debris, extremely fine particles, which I doubt a Gano would have caught. The top tank of the radiator was sparkling clean. If you’re fortunate enough to not have to top off frequently (my 1930 and 1934 take less than a quart every 700 miles, others need more), add 6 oz of Pencool annually as a replenishment dose.
I have been running distilled, Pencool, and stocking filters (my climate does not require anti-freeze) for 12-15 years and am delighted with the cleanliness of all cooling systems.
Not that I know of. If you use reflector fasteners, they should be glass, not plastic.
