Just a guess, but your old spring appears similar to the one I found in my 1936 8-cyl that was far too strong once I had the rods rebabbitted. So I speculate that some previous owner or mechanic installed a much heavier spring in your engine to compensate for extremely loose bearings. With a rebuilt engine or new bearings, a much lighter spring is needed.
Later blocks are more difficult because one has to drop the pan to gain access to the spring. On my 1936, the first spring was too light, but I’d only put four bolts in the pan and six quarts of oil. The second spring was the charm–a good thing because I had three others of different tensions as possibilities.
Thank you very much, Herb!
The Shoberg-Oakes 1934 1248A has been in the same family since 1945.
Congratulations, Paul! I think you hold the current record. Anyone else?
I’d put 8 quarts in, start and run for 5 minutes, give it 15 minutes to drain back, and note the level shown on dipstick. You’ll need to add at least one quart. Run again, let it rest. Continue adding oil until you reach the FULL mark. Now you’ll know what 8 and 9 quarts look like on the dipstick for all future oil changes.
As I recall, Tony, they were $250 each but I bought other items at the same time so that may have been the quantity-discount price–four years ago.
Jim, my 1934 (virtually identical to your 1935) has its horn relay near the right front engine mount. You can (barely) get to the contacts over the fender, but I found it easier to detach the relay’s “can” from the sheet metal and poke it down under the radiator to facilitate marking the wires.
I had to ask Bob Jacobsen for this info because I couldn’t find the darned thing! So credit him with the answer.
Our member Scott Henningsen in CA is making / repairing them. I bought a couple from him at the 2018 Meet.
Jim, thank you very much for the very thorough and carefully reasoned explanation.
I should add that the 66 hp engine was a very low rev engine, with a published redline of 1,500 rpm. The 1918 dual valve has a 2,500 rpm redline, and for comparison, a Series 80/81 a 3,000 rpm redline.
Jim, can you please clarify for me the temperature “release points” (as it were) for the higher viscosities in multi-grade oils?
Marlin Hansen attached a temperature sensor to the oil pan of his then-owned 1917 Series 66 which he drove from MN to CA about 13 years ago. He told me that even at 60 mph all day in 90+* weather that oil temp (again, measured on the outside of the oil pan) never exceeded 118*F. I think I remember him saying that he used only single-viscosity oils as a result of that finding.
Because of our usual use (shorter runs), I’ve used 15W-40 with so-far satisfactory results, but now question whether the oil temp, especially in my 1918 48 dual valve, gets hot enough on LONG runs to achieve a suitable degree of protective viscosity. That is, prior to the Modoc Tour or a Glidden Tour with 120+ mile days, should I switch to single-viscosity oil?
Adam, I’m sorry to hear of your misfortune. Yes, Optimas cannot tolerate a really deep discharge. If you haven’t tried the method above (charge in parallel with a decently charged other 6V battery), you just might be able to salvage them.
My experience is that if an Optima discharges below, perhaps, 5.9 volts, that conventional charging of that battery alone will not bring it back. What usually works for me is to wire the discharged Optima in parallel with another 6V battery (which can be wet cell) that has at least 6.1V, then slow charge. By slow charge, I mean 4-6 amps, for perhaps four hours. Give it a rest and do it a couple of more times. When the discharged Optima will hold 6.1 or 6.2 overnight, then you can top off the charge with that battery alone.
While the Optima(s) are coming back, suggest you hunt for whatever is pulling them down. This is much easier on cars which have fuse blocks–i.e., not 1929-forward Pierces. Use a volt-ohmmeter (VOM) but with the meter set to accommodate 10 amps. With a good 6V battery in place, disconnect the ground cable and connect one lead of the VOM to the battery ground post and the other to the detached ground cable, checking for amp (current) draw. There should be NONE. With a fuse block system, you would remove one fuse at a time until you get the desired zero reading; but with Pierce’s circuit breaker system you have to disconnect one electrical item at a time.
1. With battery disconnected, test the master shut off switch both open and closed and look for a short and/or resistance. Then check the cutout.
2. For your car, the clock would be the first power-consuming item I’d disconnect.
Please keep us posted on what you find.
RV (recreational vehicle) parts and service centers used to carry those large diameter glass fuses. If memory serves, you need AGC-30 and AGC-10.
That’s SoCal area, near Tarzana. Perhaps some SoCal member can bring to the Meet in Buellton beginning June 20, and transfer it to someone with a trailer or pickup bed returning eastbound.
Mystery solved…. It is a section of a REAR door sill moulding for a Series 80 4-door sedan. The screw hole placement is slightly different on the front door sills. I checked my early S80 sedan which is waiting for Greg to refurbish its engine.
That’s a 1927 serial number, and our data show it to be a 1927, not the 1925 described on eBay.
Note the tank-mounted gauge near the gas filler–found on 1926-27.
To me, it looks like a section of a sill plate, perhaps shortened as a display piece.
Being a Cheap Charlie, I use a piece of broomstick plus a foot-long section of 1 x 4 lumber with a hole drilled close (about 2″) to one end, hole drilled 1/8″ larger than the diameter of the broomstick. The long end of the 1 x 4 rests vertically against the vertical part of the front seat cushion. Friction from wedging the broomstick holds it in place at any length you wish.
Be aware of an issue with the 1933-35 S-W system: The pedal/treadle does not fall as the linings of the shoes wear, so pedal/treadle travel does not change. This can result in an unpleasant surprise. I recommend adjusting wheel brakes (easy) at a 3,000-mile interval.