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I have reservations about APPLE……..every time I send them shocks……..they need more core shocks. I never get my old parts back no matter how many time I call………I think they keep them and use them for parts…….conjecture but its happened four or five times. And I always send them good shocks, lately we rebuild our own…..
Bill…….endeavor to persevere!
The big bugs are easy…….it’s those little intermittent ones that drive you crazy.
Salesman speaking to me…….”this is an outstanding car with an outstanding restoration.”
I agrreed, and responded …”if you want to be outstanding on the side of the road with a broken car, this is the one to buy!”
The people helping people in the PAS is why its the BEST club for pre war cars in the country. People at the big shows talk to me about it all the time.
Five oz of cutting oil in a Pierce eight. Works great. Doesn’t foam. I have been using it since the 80’s in my cars I drain for the winter. Ed
Plain water with cutting oil from a machine shop is fine. Prevents rust, lubricates the water pump, and in the event of a spill or boil over rinses away with water. Its what all the old time guys used back in the day.
They were available in any color, bare, and most common seems to be silver metallic paint called platinum. Dark blue was common. Painted to match your car is fine.
I was thinking a cluster gear with issues……..pits or missing tooth.
If the diode fails, you cook the Generator, and they fail often, as they are not made to handle the amperage. Supposedly there are some nor installed in tandem and they work ok. I purchased a car that had one in it, and the generator melted down, and that’s the first time I have ever experienced that in tens of thousands of miles driving big pre war cars. I won’t use them.
Greg, you are correct. Many people don’t realize you can turn your car into a toaster if the points stick on your cut out!
Greg has a very good suggestion, we have a similar setup we use. Heat is important to either process, as is LOW or NO pressure. Time and volume are your best bet. Ed
Evapo rust will remove the oxygen, and thus much of what is stuck to the walls and in the bottom of the block will reduce in size by 60 percent. It only leaves behind ferrous metal. Buy two five gallon pails if you need it. Do the math on making gaskets, breaking bolts, stripping the 40 holes in the block, Ext………even if you spend 150 bucks on the stuff it’s cheap! I never like shortcuts or “miracle†cures, but this stuff is worth the money. That’s why I said to use it before and after you remove the water jacket cover. It’s impossible to flush all the little particles out of a radiator even if you try twenty times. Do the math on three tanks of gas for your car…………don’t let the modest price of this stuff make you run a batch at 50/50. Run it straight. I am a very happy customer several times over.
Greg, It works great, and doesn’t foam. Heat increases the reaction. Since the reaction only removes oxygen, it does not attack gaskets, paint, or anything else. In a “terrible†system like you showed, I would treat it twice, first without removing the cover, as it will make cleaning out the “flakes†much easier and cleaner. Basically a magnet will work perfectly to take out all the remaining flakes, and it removes all the powder like particles. The chemical is non toxic and can be flushed down the drain. It leaves behind the ferris metal, and if it’s loose in the system with all the oxside gone it is a neat and clean job. I ran it in an engine for nine months and probably one thousand miles. The inside of the block and head looked like they were sand blasted and then painted cast iron gray/silver. They system was perfectly clean. The car stopped pushing water out the over flow, but I still removed the radiator and back flushed it. This stuff will take a marginal system and make it drivable, but removing the jacket cover is still the best option. I recently purchased the 1927 Snap On socket set, and placed the tools in th evapo rust for a few days and brushed them with a nylon brush. The tools came out perfectly rust free without looking like they were sand blasted.
No……..similar, but different boxes. It should be close enough. Only adjust the box out of the car on a bench. Trying it in place is impossible. I have adjusted dozens of these boxes. Pull it out, clean it out, and then adjust I in a vise. Will be fine. Ed
Drain the system. Buy ten gallons of evapo rust at harbor freight. Don’t get cheap, place ten gallons in the system, and run at idle for a few hours. Then you can top off the system to just below full, and run it that way for the summer. Amazing stuff, works slowly but the heat will increase the pace. It removes oxygen, won’t hurt anything. I had a car pushing out the radiator, did as I said, and fixed it 100 percent. Runs cool and doesn’t push water anymore. You must take your time. Trust me two hundred bucks for this fix is cheap. And the process is easy. It’s a rare occurrence when a hard problem like this fixes rust and scale. Organic matter will not get removed with this process. Only rust and scale. Try it. Ed
Unless you have factory coils and they are still functioning exactly in their original range, useing a thirty will be fine, as your more modern coils will be putting out more KV’s anyway. Drive it like you stole it! Ed
Number two.
Hammer was 22K, If my memory serves me I valued it lower than that when I was looking at it. With some effort and correct parts it will be a nice driver. Ed.
The open car cowls are not all the same, thus you must be sure to figure out how to make it fit roadsters, four/five passenger touring, seven pass touring, and convertiable sedan. The area around the transmission needs to be figured out, to see if 29,30, and 31are the same……I don’t think they are. There might need to be slight modifications for different years, or a compromise to make a one unit fits all………….I would take one for my Series 42 Sport Pheaton if it fits…….Ed
That car uses a cutout/regulator with a shunt adapted for a startex. The unit you are asking for is aftermarket. The factory unit is Owens Dyneto and it took me 18 years to find one to replace the Autolite 4300 Series unit. You don’t want to know what I paid…………it was ridiculous………. Cislak has a bunch of replacment units available, assorted years and conditions, give him a call.
