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Viewing 20 posts - 1,741 through 1,760 (of 1,791 total)
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  • in reply to: Transmision Interchange ? #394181

    Hi Leon, It’s my understanding that there were several changes in 29 on the transmissions. It would probably be wise to take time and explore all your options before proceeding. Are you unhappy with the 4 speed? Or is there a problem with it? Changing over brakes, driveshaft, and other linkages may not be the only consideration. I am not sure but there may be clutch, flywheel, and starter problems to consider also. 1929 Pierce cars had lots of running changes to the platform during the year. I’m sure there are some 29 experts who can help you out.

    in reply to: Great Meet! #394163

    I agree with Bill, it was a great time. Thanks to all the people who ran another successful annual meet.

    in reply to: coolant in a 12 #394147

    Yesterday it was 102 here, I took the 36 V-12 for a spin before loading it in the trailer for the meet this week. At 45 mph for 10 minutes the temp was 169 and at a stop light (about 3 mins) it went to 181. I am just running regular coolant. I have run the car almost 20,000 miles now and the only time I ever overheated was climbing Mt Washington, 7 percent grade for 8 miles as I remember. I’ll post some information after the meet on cooling systems and new products. Ed

    in reply to: coolant in a 12 #394132

    Check your lower radiator hose to be sure it is not collapsing. It should have a stainless spring or pipe in the lower hose. Also, you would be surprised to see how many cars have bad pump impellers. And as Bill said, check your timing. Ed

    in reply to: Freewheel Unit Pusher Bars #394129

    Thanks Bill! I was going to give you a ring to ask you the best way around down town. I’ll take a set of pushers, just bring them to the meet. Ed

    in reply to: Photo as of fathers day weekend #394116

    Hi Doug. Thanks for the posting of your photo. It would make a nice feature to have a members photo gallery for all the members cars as well as current projects. I just didn’t want to make our web master more work! Please post some more photos of the engine and interrior! Thanks, Ed

    in reply to: How to paint hub caps? #394112

    I use nail polish as it seems to last longer and is easier to work with.

    in reply to: Spare Tires #394094

    Hi Doug. I ran my car with 750s in the well with very little air in them. I carried a small compressor to pump them up in the trunk. After many years of touring, having seen so many close calls with side of the road repairs (flat changes), I now only will change a flat at the garage and NEVER will change one on the road side. For the cost of a tow (or use AAA) the car doesn’t get any paint damage, and there is no problem with the small jacks, ect safety should always be number one. Ed

    in reply to: Babbitting #394079

    Zig at the Babbit Pot did my first engine in 1982, and it’s has 15,000 miles on it and no problems have come up. My 36 V-12 has babbit in it and has 13,000 miles of very hard driving and it’s 20 years old now ( Also done by Zig). On any Pierce 8 or 12 I would use inserts on the rods today as it is less expensive than babbit. Late model Seagrave 8 and 12’s all had inserts with no problems. The third generation Seagrave has a much larger crank and larger big end rod. Seems they had some reason to improve it.

    in reply to: X-5 5 ton truck parts #394068

    I love those run flat tires!

    in reply to: X-5 5 ton truck parts #394055

    Hi Karl, Thats the truck I saw and posted here from craigslist. It looks great! I just have too many projects to take on another. Ed

    in reply to: Insurance #394053

    Last week the New England region of the CCCA had Tech seminar on insurance. Lots of interesting items were covered. The trip to the mall was one actual item talked about. The broker who sells classic car insurance through 8 diffrent carriers commented most would not cover the car at a shopping mall. He said one might cover the car under those conditions. He sells coverage in 12 states. His number is 413-599-4900. His name is Jeff. I am sure he would be happy to help you out. Tell him I gave you his number.Ed

    in reply to: Pattern for a windshield frame 1933 836 #394035

    Carl, I might have a windshield frame. Can you send a drawing with correct dimensions? Ed

    in reply to: My new Pierce-Arrow #394030

    Welcome to the club! Hope to see you at the New England Region meets. Be sure to join the region. Hope to see you and your car soon, Ed Minnie. Western Mass.

    in reply to: Hints needed to verify identity of a 1936-37-38 chassis #393995

    Hi Alan, I don’t have easy access to an eight chassis, but I have two twelve chassis sitting out in the open so I will compare the photos you posted to them. As far as the unlimited distribution of information on the differences from an eight to a twelve, here is a current example. Currently on Pre War Car there are 2 1936 Pierce Arrows for sale. A Limo with an eight and a Coupe advertised as a twelve with an engine missing. While I have never seen the cars I know several members who have, and they clearly identify the coupe as an eight. Basically the two cars combined could make one, correct eight coupe. Now, how would any non knowledgeable person feel if he purchased the cars as advertised? A bad Pierce Arrow experience for any old car hobbyist weather or not he is a current PAS member is bad for all the members of the club, and the hobby as a whole. As an owner and fan of the V-12 cars, advertisements and promotions of cars that are not correct cast suspicion on all authentic twelve cars. This is why I prefer to keep the information quiet and on as need to know basis. Ed

    in reply to: Hints needed to verify identity of a 1936-37-38 chassis #393985

    Hi Alan, the 12 rear is just heavier than the later style 8. Early 8 and 12 rears are the same. I rather not list the chassis differences from an 8 to a 12 due to people doing non authentic engine swaps on cars. Years later converted cars with seagrave engines get passed off as factory. There are at least a dozen different chassis differences from an 8 to a 12 an I rather hold the information close to the vest so it is possible to spot converted cars. Seagrave engines have MANY differences from a Pierce 12 and over the last 20 years I have been studying them. I can usually tell at a quick glance if a 12 engine is correct or not. Some people consider a Seagrave engine as an acceptable substitute for a factory Pierce 12, I do not. If you would like to send me detailed photos of your chassis I will be happy to identify it for you. My best, Ed

    in reply to: Hints needed to verify identity of a 1936-37-38 chassis #393983

    Here is a shot of a 12 rear and you can clearly see one of the 4 large nuts. Hope this helps. Ed

    in reply to: Hints needed to verify identity of a 1936-37-38 chassis #393982

    Here is a shot of a plain 8 rear end cover. Note there are no 4 large nuts on face of cover.

    in reply to: Hints needed to verify identity of a 1936-37-38 chassis #393973

    Hi, an eight would have none of the 4 through bolt holes in the rear end cover with the large nuts attached. A twelve would have the 4 large nuts showing. Unless the rear had been changed at some time. Ed

    in reply to: fuel pump #393898

    Give John Cislak a call, he had a few listed for sale in the last 3 months on ebay, he also had some at Hershey. His number is 413-543-9017

Viewing 20 posts - 1,741 through 1,760 (of 1,791 total)