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Another comment………several “fake, modified, and rebodied” cars are in the club and unknown to many people, thus, just because a car has been a participant in club activity doesn’t mean it’s correct. And the number IS larger than you think.

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Everything is not as it appears! Gee……..where did we hear that before. Perfect example of why ANY Pierce Arrow should be inspected by an expert…………more and more cars have V-12 engines placed in eight chassis. There are several cut down coupe’s that are now convertibles, the list is endless……..buyer beware at ALL times.

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Take a close look, and as always, have an expert inspect the car……………the usual advice here.

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Look close…………..

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Greg….great post!

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Hi all…..thats the weekend before Amelia Island Concours so it will be a short drive to go down to the show the next weekend. I won’t be able to attend the meet in Virginia, bit I will arrive at Amelia on Wednesday afterwards. If anyone is in Southern Florida give me an email or ring and stop by the museum down in Palm Beach. Best to all…..and hope some of you can make the Amelia show………its fantastic!

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Richard, it only had the one switch. I have seen them wired to turn on with the parking lights on two cars only. I like the idea of them on with the parking lights, and it’s how I am doing my car, a 1931 Series 42 Dual Cowl. Car looks great. Best, Ed

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PS- I mostly agree with what Jim posted.

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Energy content can be broken down into energy and heat content, and the E10 has more heat and less energy. Blending stocks, mole weight, and fuel density are all also different. Lead was NEVER added to fuel until 1937, and then in very small quantities in limited areas. Old style piston ring packages, distributor curves, and timing were also affecting performance. I have ran Pierce Arrow cars on my chassis dyne, and have much different real world figures than the engineering back of the envelope fuel calculations. We compared five different fuels, all with different blending stocks. At the rear wheel figure 7 to 9 percent less power with E10. John and I have spent years configuring fuel, ignition, and engine components to get maximum performance and reliability results. Perfect stichometric efficiency in a F head is simply not possible, and the ratio is in the 12’s to low 13’s. All done with a five gas analyzer and chassis dyne.

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I agree with Tony and Bill, and like Bill I use two stroke oil…………

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Run you early engine lean at huge risk…………melting pistons, burning valves, and cracking castings is common. Octane today is made using alcohol…….which runs hotter and leaner than pure unleaded gas of the old days. The car should ALWAYS be set to run rich. Modern fuel had different specific gravity and most importantly different heat and power content with modern blending stocks. I could go on……….to properly set up the car, a five gas analyzer is best if you can gain access to one. Running some upper end lubrication is not necessary, but on very early engines I add it for safety’s sake. It’s a hundred year old car, treat it with respected don’t pound it down the road, or very unpleasant things WILL occur.

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Glad I could help.

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It doesn’t look like a Pierce Arrow part to me, that said, it appears to be a guide for a door stop strap……thus four of them works out well for a four door car.

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Retail price…..if it doesn’t need any work………..fun car.

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There were MANY changes on the cars from the 29/30 VS the 31’s. Never guess that any body or trim part will fit……as most of the time they will not. Same goes for chassis stuff. Ed

Dave, please send the template to me in Florida.

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Its been a very long time since I have seen one at a PAS meet…….Hope to see your when it’s finished. Looks very nice.

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I’m at 50/50 if it will work on my Series 42 Sport.

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Tony Zappone made some a while back. He has artwork and also a template for a tattoo!

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David……I have a 1930 Series A in the garage right now. It has mat in it, but can’t be removed because it’s fragile, can you send me a paper template so I can place it in the car and check for fit? Thanks, Ed

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Normal, no. As long as it’s not grinding I would run with it for a while. I would determine if it’s transmission, often a water pump or generator is the culprit. Drive the car, pop it in neutral see if the noise goes away. Spend some time playing with it. Could be the transmission was set set up tight. Did you rebuild it with new bearings? How about the clutch and flywheel.

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