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Jim, I was hoping you might get a reply from someone, I have been in the same boat for 25 years. My friends go to Hershey every year and look but have yet to find one. This is a tougher part to find than headlight lenses. When I finally get mine to the point of driving I will substitute a generic mirror.
Jim
The issue as I understood it is that the woven linings have a higher friction coefficient and take less force to apply and are appropriate for non-power brakes. The SW is definitely a power brake and molded lining are called for – they were original. A caution is that with the disappearance of asbestos many new linings are too hard and are downright dangerous fading on one stop and grabbing the next – a bad experience with my ’66 Chrysler after which I hoarded asbestos linings. I couldn’t find a source for 16″ asbestos for my Pierce.
The key seems to be to have a lining stamped on the side with code FF or maybe FE. The letters have to do with friction coefficient versus temperature if I remember correctly. Anything with a G or above is too hard. This was discussed a couple years ago here and someone came up with a source for linings that had some actual definition of the linings they sell. that thread may still be here. I think I have a pdf technical report somewhere I will try to dig up and send when I get a chance.
Good luck! Jim”
Theoretically a V-12 will swallow around ~40 CFM of cold air at 1000 rpm fast idle, however the high temperature exhaust could be 3x that amount due to the low density. 3000 rpm would multiply by 3 again basically. Multiply by 3 again if you have it running at wide open throttle at 3000 rpm fixed to a dyno. The typical cheap squirrel cage won’t take the direct heat of the exhaust for long. You need to seal a metal tube around the exhaust pipe and not let the exhaust mix with the surroundings until it is well outside the garage – no blower needed but you still should have some fresh air ventilation.
I have a large evaporative cooler with a large volume squirrel cage similar to a furnace blower in my garage and a sealed air inlet through the wall that dumps outside air into the garage. If I open the garage door it makes for a one way flow path to ventilate out. That plus a tube sealed to the exhaust pipe going out past the garage door gets rid of exhaust fumes.
Jim
I managed to get it off finally, it was corrosion keeping it on. I had to put a clamp on the puller’s arms to keep them engaged on the fitting. Thanks for the responses.
I have started soaking it and maybe will try some heat tomorrow. If yours slid off them it must be corrosion.
Thanks, Jim
Greg, I cut a crude jig out of a piece of 2 x 4 to support the shaft without loading the bearing and got it started with my press. It tapped out the rest of the way without any drama (there is a hole drilled in the wood that is covered by the drive fitting that the pin goes into when it is being driven out).
Thanks again!
Jim
When in doubt, assume Pierce knew what it was doing. I’ll clean up the original regulator/cutout and use it as is. Now, to the struggle with tapered press fit dowels! One of the things I really don’t like doing, for fear of screwing something up badly (like my #1 hydraulic lifter – fingers crossed).
Thanks for the responses!
Jim
Greg, I measure the resonator in your picture at just under 6″ OD and 12″ long. Thanks again!
Stainless of course will always outlast. The Pierce specs for ’34 say the mufflers were insulated with asbestos lagging, and there is an asbestos insulator attached to my passenger side floorboard. Forgive the un-authenticity of it, but I think I will replace with non-asbestos insulation! Perhaps the original resonator is actually a 5″ with asbestos insulation and an outer cover.
One of the problems with collector cars rusting out mufflers and tailpipes is the tendency to run them on very short drives without getting the exhaust system hot enough to evaporate the water, leaving condensed water and carbon in the low spots. This is an ideal combination for rusting of steel. I drill small drain holes in the lowest points of mufflers and tailpipes. I don’t know if it does any good, but it makes me feel better.
Jim
I have read these accounts in the PASB about restricting the flow to keep from foaming and dumping coolant out of the overflow, I guess that hasn’t changed. I will add a thermostat and drill some holes as suggested.
Thanks for the responses!
The debate about how an engine can counter-intuitively run cooler by restricting the flow doesn’t really depend on looking at an atomic level. It depends on the heat balance between the engine adding heat to the coolant versus the ability of the radiator to remove the heat. Basic convective heat transfer says that increasing the velocity of the flow increases the heat transfer rate from the hot engine surfaces to the coolant. More heat is transferred but the temperature rise of the coolant will be less because more coolant is flowing. The radiator’s ability to reject the heat added to the coolant by the engine is limited by the amount of air passing through the radiator – a perfect radiator can’t reject any more heat once it raises the air temperature passing through it to the coolant temperature. Thus, if the radiator is close to capacity on the air side the coolant temperature can rise with more coolant flow.
Regardless, restricting the flow through the engine can reduce the overall temperature of the coolant but reduced velocities can make local hot spots more likely that can turn into steam pockets – so I am a little leery of taking this too far.
The goal is not to reduce the temperature of the engine but to keep it at the right level. The cylinder barrels actually tend to run cooler than ideal, and it would be better to keep the scale and rust on them to reduce the heat transfer from them if one could guarantee the junk wouldn’t flake off and plug the radiator!
Note that an engine that has been bored and had the cylinder head surfaces machined has thinner walls allowing more heat transfer through those surfaces, and will slightly increase the tendency towards overheating.
As mentioned above one of the biggest concerns is avoiding local hot pockets particularly under the exhaust valves. Prestone doesn’t have as much heat capacity as water, but it raises the boiling point to help suppress steam, and that is why engines can live a healthy life on water/glycol mix.
Jim
Thanks! This is a great help. I can put this in my CAD program to take the measurements. My exhaust pipe has the heat shield and was cut just behind the bend before the resonator with a 2″ pipe welded in behind.
Jim”
Thanks! I am anxious to fire this thing up, but still months to go. I have all the ancillaries to deal with: carb, fuel pump, radiator, starter, generator, water pump, etc.
Looking at my mufflers it looks like the original pipe from the manifold was 2 1/4 and cut at the bottom of the bend, probably to replace the first resonator. Seems like a crowded space near the fuel pump, do you know what the dimensions of it were? Presumably less than the 6″ diameter like the two behind it? I have routed my auxiliary electric pump lines on the outside of the frame because of the vapor lock worry.
I do plan to wrap everything with the high temp manifold wrap, I cooked my wife in the Packard years ago because the pipe passes under the passenger side, she wasn’t a happy camper so I did lot’s of insulating after that.
I appreciate your comments, I do want to make this car very quiet between the hydraulic lifters and muffler system.
Thanks again!
Jim
What a wonderful piece, very unique. I’m forwarding to my Studebaker friends (yes I have a couple but I try to avoid the subject).
Jim
I’ll use the basic dark body color for the fenders (tempting as it would be to have them a different color) and just use the lighter color for the belt moldings including the ones going under the doors and along the rear fender attachment per the scheme shown in the ’35 brochures. The fenders are pretty straight with some surface rust and minor bends here and there.
I think the luggage rack is supposed to be basic body color, but I am tempted to use the lighter belt molding color.
As for my double ended engine stand – it is crude and I’m not too proud of it so not too many pictures. “Mission adequate” and that’s all. Basically it was built out of two regular engine stands bolted together with steel angles and straps. The older one had already supported Chrysler 383 and 440’s cantilevered from one end.
The problem was how to support the engine with the bell housing installed and still be able to convert it into a rotisserie for working on the engine alone. I built up a separate wood support to do that which created Chinese puzzles to convert back and forth. The upper left picture is when I pulled it out in 2004. The lower right shows the back end installed.
this kluge got trapped between the hoist and the front end of the engine when I needed to remove it, so I had to disassemble the engine stand while it was hanging on the hoist.
In 20/20 hindsight and feeling really stupid, I could have easily used the four post lift to do this whole thing by hanging the spreader bar and engine from the garage door end of the lift and use the lift to raise and lower to remove the engine stand, wood frame, and then roll the chassis underneath it using the four post lift to lower it in. Duh!
I guess bottom line for others – if you have a way of using a chain hoist instead of an engine hoist it will probably go much easier.
Yup, bolt bending is a real worry, greatly increases the stress. When I first pulled the engine in 2004 (upper picture) the head was off and I used a couple box beams across the head studs to reduce bending in the studs.
When I installed it last week, the cylinder head was installed and torqued, so I had to find another way. At the front which wasn’t so heavily loaded I used a light box beam bolted to the water outlet with a chain hook between.
At the back taking most of the weight I used hooks bolted solid to the lower bell housing/engine bolts (grade 
.
The calculations say this had very large factors of safety, but still a worry when you actually do it. The hooks claimed 3700 lb capability each.
In reality a 1/4 inch Grade 5 bolt could take the entire weight of the engine and then some if loaded in pure tension or shear – it’s those bending forces that will get you such as the hoist beam.
That might have worked, it would have solved my first problem of wrestling the engine off of the double ended engine stand. I think the problem coming from the side is the front tire doesn’t allow the engine hoist to get far enough forward to clear the transmission when you bring it in.
In 20/20 hindsight I could have used my 4-post lift to hang the engine from – duh!
David: I figured you meant 1200 lbs and you well could be right.
I probably put too much faith that there was a big safety margin in the simple minded 1/2 ton rating painted on the side of the hoist. If this was airplane world I guess it worked per design – no permanent deformation up to design limit load, permanent deformation allowed but no failure between limit and ultimate (1.5 x limit). 1200 lbs would be in the bad lands between limit and ultimate.
Jim
Bill, the problem I had with the hoist was that the engine hoist jack ran into the front cross member of the frame before it got back to the engine mounts. Leaving off the transmission and power brake/free wheel unit probably would have moved the cg of the assembly far enough forward to get the engine a bit further back from the hoist and avoided the problem. I took the whole assembly out in one piece 12 years ago and I guess it was too long ago to remember the problems. I didn’t want to wrestle with engine/clutch/transmission separately in the car. The body was off last year but I had to put it back on because I don’t have enough room with them apart, either the frame or the body had to be left outside.
Jim
Sounds like a hacksaw is the plan! Thanks, Jim
Roy Martin
“The Temperature Gauge Guy”
172 Laurel Hill Drive
So. Burlington, VT 05403
802-862-6374
I don’t think he does email. He doesn’t do electrics or motometers. He doesn’t really advertise, and I only found him by way of a 2010 forum posting on AACA.
This Pierce has always spurred my interest since by coincidence as rare as it is it happens to be an 845 Club sedan like mine. Every now and then I haul out DVD’s to get inspiration to keep going on my rough heap. The Pierce should get top billing in these shows – although the repro Gee Bee air racer in “Rocketeer” maybe should share it.
I think the most shots of the car are actually in one not mentioned, an obscure low budget movie “Just You and Me Kid” with George Burns and a young Brooke Shields. There are a lot of shots as George drives it around including parking at the grocery store and putting orange traffic cones around it. To spur more prurient interest at one point Brooke Shields hides naked in the trunk/spare tire compartment. Having the same car I often wondered how she ever fit in that narrow trunk, skinny though she was. Looking at the DVD on the big screen it looks like they probably removed the rear seat and built a larger false trunk compartment into it.
It is so obscure that it wasn’t available on DVD until a couple years ago but it is now available through Amazon. They only burn a copy when someone asks for it – not in stock for immediate delivery.
Jim
