- Home
- About Us
- Join/Renew
- Member Benefits
- Member Pages
- Log In
- Help
- Museum Store
Jack, if not removing the head, you can replace nuts one-at-a-time. You should torque all nuts first, then replace (with anti-seize lube) and torque each one as you go. The hot/cold re-torquing steps are only required for a new gasket. Yours is already fully compressed. If you remove all nuts at one time, the gasket may not reseal and require replacement.
Jim,
No, wipers need grease. I suggest you contact Kent Jaquith at 541-923-4319. He is listed in the Parts and Services Directory.
Roger,
No on the flat washer, but absolutely yes on the thread sealant.
Happy Birthday David!
I have fond memories of your visit to our Winter board meeting and the Meet in Silvedale, 1998. What happened in Silverdale will always stay in Silverdale.
Best Regards,
Bob
The “I””s are ones. This is a plate from a 1931 Model 43.”
Edgar,
You said I must kill a neat and cut off its feet to service my BK brake system. Now, must I find an angel to bend my wiper arms on?
Bob
Ken,
You say – “Lots of silicon though used in the engine that has to all be cleaned out””. What are you referring to?”
Ed,
What are the handful of Seagrave parts you can see?
Merlin’s jack crank is not OEM. A pic of the correct crank is on the cover of Arrow 69-3 (which is available in “Back Issues”). I got a crank with my trailer, but someone has “liberated” it. That’s why I am trying to find another.
Got them, Merlin. Thanks
I think the airbags would be a good choice, as we do not have load-equalizing hitches on the PA. The bags can be cross-connected to keep the pressures equal.
The tongue weight on my Model B was measured today. It is right at 500 lbs.
Yes, it is the correct can. Thank you. I have contacted Gene Reeves and now have the info I needed.
No, but I know that the tongue weight of my Model B exceeds 400 lbs. I searched all my files and found no numbers.
I have asked this before and got no response. Does anyone have info on the OEM trailer hitch used by PA for the Travelodge and/or info on the vacuum connection to the tow car for the trailer brakes?
I think that some additional comments on PASB 2019-1 are in order, for the benefit of anyone contemplating repairs to their B-K Vacuum Power Brake system:
1. A dash mounted vacuum gauge is not OEM on PA’s and would be considered not “authentic” for judging purposes. As would be the tee fitting, modern compression tubing fitting and incorrect hose clamp.
2. The correct hose size would be 1/2″.
3. The pictured check valve is correct for only 1936. !937-38 valve use a two-bolt rubber mount, which is not available from Steele.
4. Adding lube via the vacuum hose fitting is not correct. One of the four front plate mounting bolt-holes is drilled thru to the interior (the other three are blind holes). Removal of that bolt allows the addition of lube to the correct side of the leather cup.
5. The use of inner tube rubber for the control valve diaphragm is not correct and is likely to fail. The 10psi pressure is too much for unsupported inner tube rubber. The diaphragm must be a fabric reinforced material, which is available from Karp’s Power Brake, Upland, CA.
Hope this is of some help.
Bob
Dave,
A real challenge, as this unit is not self-propelled. Its huge engine powers only the plow blades. A regular train engine pushes it forward.
Please provide a link in the “Optional URL”” box.”
Greg,
A little clarification is in order. The tool I showed at the Annual Meet was a telescoping cargo spreader bar, used to secure loads in a pickup bed. They are inexpensive and available from Harbor Freight Co. I replaced the rubber feet with wooden wedges. Also, the brand name of the body shop tool you mention is “Porta Power””.”
Craig,
The 1937 Pierce-Arrow sales booklet lists “dome and corner lights”” as “”among the appointments””.”
