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Jak,

Excellent comment and info.

The headlight glow produced by my 6-volt, 1925, Series 80 is abysmal!

A safe traveling speed on a poorly lit street at night is 20-mph!

Peter

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Not only do you NOT HAVE To wind it ou in First gear, as David indicates, just get it moving, MAX 5-mph, and then shift gently into Second gear.

I am the KING of Gear Clashing in my Series 80.

Lord, I HATE doing it, and the more I drive the car each driving season, the less I do it.

I just BEAM when I make a Clash-less shift.

BTW, does the 1929 have a Clutch Brake?

I was told that on the Series 80, if one pushes the clutch pedal all the way to the floor, it causes a Clash when one shifts because it stops one of the transmission components from spinning.

Maybe that is accurate, but maybe I just Clash.

It also may have something to do with my standard driving outfit, which is PURPLE & GREEN!

Peter

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Jak,

Excellent comment and info.

The headlight glow produced by my 6-volt, 1925, Series 80 is abysmal!

A safe traveling speed on an unlit street at night is 20 -25-mph!

Peter

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Eric,

Congratulations!

i know that you will be in touch with the other PAS members with experience on getting your 1701 rolling along as a Pierce-Arrow Twelve should.

Remember that it will pass anything on the road, that is, EXCEPT a gas station.

This is a Great Group for advice, and remember to ask a few the same question and then sort out the answers offered.

Peter

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Richard,

You should consider your mechanic’s drive a “Test Drive / Shakedown Cruise.”

The Maiden Drive comes when the OWNER takes his Maiden out for a spin in his spiffy, beautifully restored, 1929, Model 133, Dual Cowl Phaeton, Pierce-Arrow Motorcar.

Peter

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Richard,

I believe that the fender-mounted headlight “option” did not arrive on Pierce-Arrow motorcars until 1914.

So, if there was a rider in a saddle, he was astride a fender (hopefully on the left side) adjacent to a gas powered headlight (right-hand steering wheel).

OUCH!

They may have needed such a rider to navigate the roads at night.

Perhaps, he held a flashlight!

Peter

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Can one imagine the quality of the roads in 1910 from Sacramento to Los Angeles?

And then to average 50-mph in the race!

That is a BIG WOW!

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Bob,

Are you talking about the floor material on your Series 81?

That should be battleship linoleum, perhaps deteriorated, but it should be linoleum.

If you are asking about a material that is under a floor mat / rug in the front seating area that lies upon the linoleum, then it is up to someone else to provide an answer.

Peter

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Gents,

Keep it up!

I need more Pierce-Arrow photos for my screen saver!

Thanks!

Peter

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Richard,

Just so you don’t feel too badly, the photo is amusing and the comments are better.

Rodney is rather matter-of-fact about his Pierce-Arrow cars and their condition.

There are no Trailer-Queens in his collection, that is unless they are Cattle Trailers.

He is a True Cowboy and sponsors an outstanding tour.

Peter

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Gents,

GREAT RESPONSE!

Keep them coming.

Peter

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David,

Thanks, but I saw this before.

Although it is veery nice, I was looking for the standard offering in the Activities section where there are single photos of each of the cars in attendance.

They are usually posted within a week or two of the Annual Meet.

Maybe no one took any photos and turned them over to our esteemed webmaster.

Maybe people who frequent the Message Bard and who took photos at the Meet will post a few.

They would be good to share.

Peter

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James,

You are indeed a Scientist of the First Order!

BRAVO!

Peter

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Robert,

BTW, if you NEED to remove the rear wheel for whatever purpose, you will need a wheel puller that screws onto the hub.

You need to get the correct diameter puller.

I attach an example.

Peter

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Antique-Wheel-Hub-Puller-Ford-Model-T-Buick-Chrysler-Lincoln-13/172941308802?hash=item28441af382:g:4hAAAOSwYVlZ7TsD

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Robert,

To remove the rim from the wheel you need to take a large screwdriver and put it in the slot and leverage it a bit, then turn the wheel and do the same thing on the next wheel slot, move it again and do it again until you have the whole rim moving off of the wheel,

Perhaps then you can use a rubber mallet to bang it off.

Then follow Tony’s instructions about collapsing the split rim.

The whole process is not easy and the screwdriver will scratch the rim, but there is not much you can do about that issue except touch up the rim.

That stated, the rim will likely scratch again when you re-install it on the wheel.

I attach a link for the split rim tool.

This one is for a Model A, Ford, but I have one where the two leg will lengthen.

The Ford Tool may work, but check with the seller as to what the total length is when fully expanded.

Then, check out the Emporium for articles on how to do it.

I wrote noe or two a few years ago.

Peter

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-SPLIT-RIM-TOOL-TIRE-CHANGER-SPREADER-ANTIQUE-MODEL-A-T-FORD-PATENT-1929/143292613121?hash=item215ce7c201:g:CowAAOSwEJZdAZhR

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John,

It is a Series 80 COACH, with a mono-tone paint job (no belt line stripe or black above the belt line), with non correct headlight lenses.

It is painted in RESALE RED.

It has a single wiper, and who knows if it is electric or the correct vacuum driven wiper motor.

I think it will sell at a bargain price, but it will need work on the exterior to make it Pierce-Arrow elegant.

Who knows what the interior looks like, but they say it is excel,,ent overall.

They also indicate that the engine was completely rebuilt and list new pistons, valve lifter brackets and new wiring (not much wiring on a Series 80).

Finally, they list new tubes and tires and a dual-spare carrier on the back with used tire mounted.

It is an interesting project.

Peter

http:////owlshead.org/auctions/detail/1926-pierce-arrow-80-4-door-sedan

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Tony,

I’m IN!

Peter

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Randy,

I was just giving it a shot based upon modern harmonic balancer types.

You mentioned the rubberized nature of the cloth material and that why I extrapolated to Elastomers, as that is one of the three current types of harmonic balancers.

I just had a bit of time to burn, so I did a bit of research and i couldn’t find information on the material used on the Friction Type of harmonic balancer, but I bet a Speed Shop might know.

Good luck,

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Randy,

Look at this stuff.

I DK, but maybe is is what you need.

Peter

http://www.mcmaster.com/rubber-elastomers

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Gents,

I don’t know what you are doing wrong, because the last time I signed in was about 10-years ago.

Someone will tell you how to do it.

Maybe it is that you need to Request a Website ID Left Side, Second Item, below “Join Us.””

Peter

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