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Doug,
Just to add a bit of angst to the conversation, remember that the only part of the top material that anyone will ever see without being on a serious stepladder is the two-to-three-inche span that show at the edge of the top where it rolls over to the drip edge.
Other than my dumb comment, my Series 80, 7-Passenger DeLuxe was painted in 1990 and the top material was replaced.
The material they used has a pronounced grain.
Access to top materials was limited at that time, relative to today, and maybe it was more correct because of the times. Who knows?
Long or short, I DK on that matter, but I will send you a photo if you desire.
Also, as any P-A enclosed car knows, cleaning the top requires a 10-foot step-ladder to access the center, likewise, seeing the top except from a second story window.
On another aspect of your initial comment, the top is indeed padded.
There is a lattice (not loathing) nearest to the interior to which the headliner is mysteriously attached (no exposed tacks).
On top of that is some type of thick padding and then (perhaps) some chicken-wire type of material with more padding before the top material covers everything.
This is my observation on the top construction and I am confident that others more familiar with the matter will chime in.
Have fun with the restoration and post photos of the process.
Peter
David,
It is definitely not a brass era car, which I understand ran from 1896 to 1915.
The Series 81 falls in the Nickel Age of 1916 to 1929..
Peter
Hi Ken,
Just FYI, I run TWO in my Series 80!
I know it is serious overkill, but hooking them up in parallel, I have serious cranking power and should never have a dead battery as I often did with standard wet-cell, lead-acid POS batteries.
Also, with the OPTIMA batteries having a functional life of 8+ years, and 10+, if carefully maintained, the batteries may outlast me (HA, not really – heck, I hope not).
When we were first offered the deal, they cost about $100 including delivery; they now sell online for $135 to $150+.
i will pursue the matter in the Spring and see what I can do for my PAS Gentlemen and Lady friends.
Peter
Arnold,
To play off of Ed, Mac’s Auto (Model A part seller) has the TRICO blades for that type of wiper.
If you have problems with the unit working, I have a contact that may be able to help.
He is the KING of TRICO VISIONALL repair.
Peter
I believe that the guts of the Houdaille shocks are essentially seals and valve / valves.
The valve opening is controlled by the external adjuster, that is, if it did not rust solid or break off.
GOOD JOB, Bill!
David, just take those photos to the DMV / RMV / Insurance Company, and you should be good to go!
Our Society Members are veritable founts of Pierce-Arrow information.
Check out the Parts and Service Directory for all THREE rebuilders.
I recollect that they change the guts of the Houdaille, but that is a vague recollection.
David,
One can always haul the TravelLodge with their truck to a highway truck scale, a local DUMP, or to a salvage yard, and weight the rig with and without the TravelLodge attached.
Peter
George,
I expect that they were not rebuilt, but who knows?
Mine are filled with the glycerine and alcohol (cheap booze!) and function well.
The round units are readily available on eBay, but obtaining the correct arms, links and fittings can be difficult.
I believe that for the fitting, I used Model A Ford parts from Mac’s or LeBarron Bonney.
Karl Krouch sells, or did sell, the leather boots for wrapping the links and fittings.
Thank you for your input.
What is the name of the Houdaille rebuilder? Apple something?
Peter
Randy,
The fluid to refresh them is a mixture of 10-percent Isopropyl alcohol and 90-percent glycerin.
You can buy both at a Pharmacy.
Peter
Randy,
Rhode Island wiring will likely make up for you everything you need, including variations on a 1927 Series 80, if there are variations.
Also, as pointed out above, the wiring on a Series 80 is pretty simple, so a DIY is okay.
Apropos of wire gauge, you can chat with the RI WIRE guys about your needs and they will give sound advice.
You re running a 6V system, so you will hard pressed to start an electrical fire with modern wire running through most of the car.
I bought 14 gauge & 16 gauge wire for most of the runs, with a slightly larger gauge for the run from the fusebox to the coil / distributor, (12 gauge?).
And of course, battery cable.0
Again, RI WIRE will easily get you through it.
Also, don’t forget the steel armored wire that runs from the horn button through the steering column and to the horn.
Peter
Randy,
Do you have power to the switch?
If not, maybe that is the problem.
When I rewired my Series 80, did everything except the courtesy light.
It worked and I use it once every 10-years.
In any case, perhaps your problem lies between the switch and its connection to the body, which may be an easier fix.
You can always pull out your ammeter to check.
Peter
Jim,
I have a modern 6v coil and condenser mounted inside the passenger compartment high on the firewall (using the original coil screw holes – using longer ones) and have it snaking through the firewall into the loom so you can’t see it.
I kept the original wires in the loom but cut them off so that they look original but they are wires to nowhere.
I then connected the modern coil through the loom to the distributor and ditto with the condenser wire to the distributor.
You can’t tell by looking, but if you pull on the coil wire as the “original” wire enters the loom from the coil, you see that it is cut off.
Perhaps this is another upgrade to consider.
Peter
Jim,
I DK on the location on this site, but you should be in touch with George Teebay on the matter, as I recall that he has a good solution for the problem.
Peter
You could always contact Fay Butler, our PAS Head Judge for an opinion.
David,
By thin wall do you mean as represented in this photo?
If so, please advise via email and perhaps I can be of assistance.
Peter
Charles,
How about sending me an email with a photo / photos & description of what you have (parts) and what you want to construct?
Peter
Karl,
Very Krouch-like, clear and concise!
Peter
Charles,
The intake manifold on my Series 80 is from a Series 81.
The temperature adjustment flapper on my exhaust manifold is frozen in the open position (at the 1:00 position) and really does not effect the functioning of the engine, as I don’t drive it in the winter.
It is used to increase the heat in the intake for cold weather.
I would not worry about it.
Someone probably removed it because it became frozen (rusted) in one position due to the water contained in the exhaust gases and the repeated heating cycles.
Greg’s comment about the intake manifold on Series 81 cars is interesting because the manifold
is aluminum and shouldn’t rust.
I had to have my exhaust manifold reworked because of all of the rust holes, but the Series 81 intake manifold was rock solid.
Peter
