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Jim,

Contact: Jarvis Erikson, Box 2245, Lynnwood, Washington 98036

425-418-3032 – [email protected]

He is the go-to Yale Key guy.

Peter

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Chris,

BTW, a few of we PAS guys have modern 6V coils mounted on the interior side of the firewall and have the wires covertly snaked to the distributor while having the original /correct coil APPARENTLY connected.

The wires from the original coil are long enough to just enter the loom and stop after one or two-inches.

They don’t connect, but look as though they do.

In that way, we are running off new coils.

Now some Gents may say that the old coils crank more power, but I DK on that matter.

Modern 6V coils are easily obtainable, like from a vintage VW parts supplier.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

As they say, 99% of all fuel delivery problems are electrical!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Charles,

Glyptal is paint for the INTERIOR of the crankcase.

It keeps the oil on the inside so it does not weep through the aluminum.

You apply it with a brush.

You can then paint the outside of the crankcase with AlumiBlast from Eastwood or whatever aluminum paint you prefer.

The block should be painted with high temp engine paint.

I believe Black or a Medium to Dark Green were the correct colors for the engine block.

Peter

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Tom,

The tool kits shown above are overpriced, especially considering fewer than half are P-A tools.

One should be able to assemble a set for half of the cost shown.

Contact Karl Krouch for the tool roll and various tools.

Karl is the go-to guy for such items.

He has more tools than one can possibly conceive (thousands & sells them at Hershey) and has excellent tool rolls made by the Amish Dudes in Pennsylvania.

Peter

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Ken,

Here is a photo of the placement of the handle on my FRONT door.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Ken,

Here is a photo of the placement of the handle on my REAR door.

Peter

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Tony,

You are a Marvel!

Merry Christmas,

Peter

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Ken,

Regarding the FRONT door handle placement, I can send location measurements if you can’t figure them out from the photo.

Peter

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Ken,

Is there much need for a P-A heater in Arroyo Grande?

My Series 80 is sufficiently HOT just from the engine heat that migrates through the floorboards.

Most guys out your way want to keep the heat DOWN to avoid vapor lock.

Peter

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Ken & Gents,

Lurk, Lurk!

The robe cord on my 1925 Series 80, 7-passenger DeLuxe is original.

Note that the handles are located as such because exiting a Series 80 7-Passenger sedan is hugely difficult for anyone taller than 4-feet 8-inches.

Getting in is a snap. Getting out is the problem.

The handles mounted on the rear door on my car are on the middle of the door, about 1-inch below the window surround trim.

I believe that they exist to assist in closing the door and having something to hold as one steps down from the coach to the running board.

On the front doors, the handles are mounted toward the rear of the door and also 1-inch below the window surround trim.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I would speculate that the Robe Rails on the open cars needed to be weatherproof!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Randy,

BTW, most Series 80 cars generate a substantial amount of heat through the front floor boards, so if you snag one of those Manifold Heater Boxes and hook it up, be prepared to BAKE.

In the warm weather you may be able to “shut it off” but remember that the steel / cast iron will still transfer heat so touring in Louisiana in the summer with such an arrangement could be a bit temperature intense.

In addition, installing such a piece might also increase the running temperature of your engine, but who knows.

Peter

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Randy,

On eBay there are a number of those available in various configurations, mostly for FORD cars, but here is one that is more generic, I think.

Peter

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-GOERLICHS-HEATER-EXHAUST-INTAKE-MODEL-G-/132004621247?hash=item1ebc16abbf:g:7rIAAOSwB09YGSnN&vxp=mtr

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Ken,

That is one beautiful Series 80, though your front bumper seems to be frowning.

Lovely motorcar.

Is the car all black, or is it a very dark blue or dark green over black?

Very elegant.

BTW, I believe that I still have one or two nickel plated crank snout covers, that is if I didn’t already sell one to you.

Peter

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David,

Did you previously post the serial number of your car / engine?

Did I investigate its history through the Bernie Weis listing?

If I did not investigate, post the S/N, or better, send me an email, and next week I will investigate prior owners.

Peter

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Ed,

Write up your car’s history, take a few photos and send all of it to me and I will create a story about it for the New England Pierce-Arrow Journal.

Alternately, you can write up a history about any of your Pierce-Arrow cars (with photos) and I will publish that story / those stories in the NEPAS Journal.

Peter

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Chales,

Just click on Karl’s name above and it will redirect you to an email.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

There you go, zeroed in and identified!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Ken,

If you look closely at the photos, I believe you will see that the body of the vanity is leather covered steel, which to me suggests it is a 1930s era piece.

However, I reserve the right to be wrong.

Cheers,

Peter

[Author]

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