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Craig,

Send me an email to me at [email protected] and I will send you the document that I sent to David Stephens.

It addresses the lubrication of Series 80/81 cars, but it will likely be useful to you.

Peter

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David,

Greg is correct about 600w in the trans and differential, however note that Restoration Supply sells Penrite Steering Box Lube, which is 1200w. (500ml LUB009 $15.75)

They say it will not leak, but maybe that is not fully accurate, or I need to tighten up some fittings.

It was good for a few years, but now I have some dripping.

I think that I may need to drain it (for a week) and then replace it with fresh Lube, however, getting it in the box is a trial, and never inject it, just let it ooze in (it may take some time, but it will eventually go in.

VERY THICK STUFF.

Peter

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There is lore around the PAS that someone should write a book on Pierce-Arrow cars and entitle it “The Cars of the Night” because the it is when they do not run hot, but it is mostly a joke.

My Series 80 really does not run hot too often, but when it does, it needs a good On-the Car radiator flush.

In the past, when it was bad, I would do an Off-the-Car radiator flush using 10-mol acetic acid (commercial strength vinegar) and hot water. That would fix things for years.

However, now that I no longer have a traditional grease packed water pump, I can stick with the On-the-Car radiator flush.

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Jim,

Thanks!

Peter

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Tony,

You know that I am blind as a BAT, and you should know about BAT GUANO!

I am just fussing a bit, but a Moto Meter is a bit tough to see while driving at night.

That said, driving at night is probably the only time when a Series 80 will not run hot.

Peter

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Thanks, Gents!

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Paul,

Thanks for the info.

Could one connect this type of gauge arrangement to / through the radiator?

Perhaps, I should just stick with using a Moto Meter as the definitive water temperature indicator and stop fussing around.

Peter

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David,

I believe that is for the rear end.

Send me an email and within a few days I will send you an attachment document listing all of the Series 80 Lubrication requirements translated into available 21st century oils and lubes.

Peter

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click URL

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pre-WWII-Presidental-Parade-Automobile-Lap-Robe-FDR-Presidental-Embroidered-Seal-/112102164097?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

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Here is the click on URL

http://https://www.rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/HF16/Hershey/lots/r105-1916-pierce-arrow-model-66-a-4-seven-passenger-touring/257636

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Fred was a superb Pierce-Arrow Man with an excellent sense of how to move through the world making friends along the way.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Gents,

The PAMCC apparently did not have concern for maintaining the integrity of the stamped logo on the sill plate, as my Series 80 (with original sill plates) has two rows of screws, each of which encroach on the logo.

There are six screws across the top row and five across the bottom row.

This number arrangement (6/5) is consistent for both the front and rear door sill plates.

The logo is of such a grand scale that you cannot install the plate without encroaching on the logo.

You may be able to strategically place the screws, but then they will likely not be evenly spaced.

It is surprising to me that such a detail was not considered by the PAMCC.

Peter

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Yo Ho Jak,

I can’t wait to see your handsome face gazing out of one of your Pierce-Arrow motorcars.

BTW, Trafficator?

Whoa!

What an antique word for we Yanks.

That must be an OZ-onian term.

Best to you,

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Henry Phillips developed the Phillips head screw in the early 1930s.

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Philip,

The screws are OVAL-headed, slot screws.

Photos of the sill plate and screw info to follow later today.

Peter

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Philip,

I will send you photos later, but they are screwed in and if you cannot get oval-headed nickel screws, then get oval-headed stainless steel screws.

Stainless, when polished is near identical to polished nickel.

I will send you photos and sizes for the screws.

I may even have a box of the little suckers kicking around the shop.

Peter

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Ken,

Lacquer thinner will take off the paint and will likely not cause the plugs any problems.

The bluing is easy to apply and with a few coats, it is permanent (save for multiple applications of a socket wrench) and heat resistant.

It comes in blue and black (I did not know about the black until today), but the blue comes out pretty black and it costs about $20.

Peter

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/liquid-cold-bluing-chemicals/gun-blue-black-kits-prod27174.aspx

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Ken,

I have the Champion plugs in the Series 80 at this time, but also have the Auto-Lite plugs sitting around.

I likes the taller look of the Champion plugs and I used gun barrel bluing and blued-out the tops to get rid of the silver color.

They look pretty good blue / black.

Peter

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Art,

Regarding cracked caps, I was told that over the course of a few days, or longer, successive coats, if you paint the cracks with Ladies nail polish (clear), you can virtually eliminate the cracks from being a problem.

Of course, with the variety of nail polish colors available, you might find a color to match (HA!).

Finding the points and such is an exercise in patience on eBy, but they are expensive, relatively speaking.

If you have a set that works, use it until you find replacements.

Peter

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Ken,

Rhode Island wiring (RIWire.com) will have what you need.

however, why your wires got hot and melted is another question.

Are you the guy with the 12v system in your Series 80?

Maybe that is it?

DK here.

Peter

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