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Viewing 20 posts - 1,001 through 1,020 (of 1,425 total)
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  • in reply to: Oil pan gasket #402286

    Doug,

    You could try some Permatex Ultra Black Oil resistant gasket maker.

    It has worked well for me on my Series 80 pan that used to leak.

    Peter

    http://https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/permatex-ultra-black-maximum-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-4/

    in reply to: Brake linings Stewart Warner Power Brakes #402285

    I was told that if you go to a brake shop with your brake shoes and tell them that the shoes come from a farm tractor, they will install asbestos brake linings.

    Again, that is what I was told and have not to date attempted such a purchase.

    in reply to: Positive Ground Question #402276

    Ken,

    Perhaps I was incorrect as to the position of the ignition switch when in the ON / RUN position.

    There are only two positions ON and OFF.

    Move it to the limit of its range.

    Maybe it is 10:00 now that you refresh my memory.

    Not enough Pierce-Arrow time recently.

    Peter

    in reply to: Series 80 Windshield Frame #402269

    Randy,

    You have a Coach and I have a DeLuxe.

    You have a one-piece windshield and I have a two-piece windshield.

    I assume that you need to remove your movable windshield frame from the car and then remove the screws on the ends / sides / top / bottom of the movable frame to remove the glass.

    If you are replacing the windshield, then you need to get your Glass Guy to make sure that there is a BUG (indicia) on the windshield certifying that the replacement glass is laminated.

    You cannot participate in a PAS tour (officially) if your car does not have laminated windshield glass.

    On my car, I had that BUG placed on the lower right part of the windshield so that I could mount the State Inspection Sticker behind the BUG.

    In that way, I had the BUG / indicia, but it was camouflaged by the Inspection sticker.

    Peter

    in reply to: Positive Ground Question #402268

    Ken,

    An additional photo.

    Peter

    in reply to: Positive Ground Question #402267

    Ken,

    The key locks the ignition switch.

    If you remove the key while it is in the UNLOCKED position , the ignition switch will move.

    IF the key is in the locked position, the ignition switch will not move.

    On my Series 80, the Ignition OFF position is at 7:00 and the ON position is at 8:30.

    My Uncle, from whose estate I bought the car, had LOCKED the Ignition in the 7:00 position and then BROKE the thumb switch by trying to move it to the 8:30 position with the Ignition LOCKED (see photo).

    He ran a jumper switch around the problem he created.

    I just unlocked the Ignition Lock and bought a new Ignition Switch Toggle from Bob’s Automobilia (Buick parts supplier).

    The idea behind the positive ground is that you only need a single line wire to light any lights or electrify other fixtures.

    If the car is a negative ground, then you need both a positive and negative wire to light a lamp bulb, etc., (like a modern vehicle).

    The drawback of a positive ground vehicle is that you need to be careful of where you place your wrenches as you work on the car, as you could easily ZAP something.

    Personally, I would make sure that the car is connected as a POSITIVE GROUND car, rather than a negative ground.

    I read somewhere that if you have it reversed, making a positive ground car a negative ground car, the ammeter will show discharge when running and charge when the engine is off and the headlights are on.

    I also read that the starter would run in the opposite direction, as would the engine, therefore not allowing the engine to run.

    I do not know if any of that is true, but I did read it somewhere.

    I hope that this is useful and accurate information.

    Peter

    http://bobsautomobilia.com/shop/

    in reply to: Positive Ground Question #402261

    Ken,

    Has the car started and run while in your ownership or did you just haul it onto a trailer and drag it home?

    I believe that the positive pole cable of your battery should connect to your bell-housing while the negative pole / cable should connect to your starter.

    If the opposite is true, then you should post a photo and others will chime in.

    if you never ran it, I would confirm its polarity before I fired it up for the first time.

    Peter

    in reply to: 3 gal. fuel reserve switch #402244

    Ken,

    The photo was taken from the rear of the car, so the toggle is turned to the RIGHT / RESERVE position.

    Peter

    in reply to: 3 gal. fuel reserve switch #402240

    David,

    I do not believe that there is a 3-gallon reserve toggle on the fuel gauge on a Series 81, although I may be wrong.

    On the Series 80, there is a toggle showing through the middle of the gas tank shroud.

    The LEFT position is the RUN position.

    The CENTER Position is OFF – NO Fuel (A Nasty way to fool with some other Series 80 Guy).

    The RIGHT position is Reserve.

    Do not run on Reserve, as you may need the 3-gallons sometime.

    Do NOT put it in the Center position, as you will likely forget and wonder why the heck your car will not start.

    I attach a photo of a dusty toggle for your review.

    Peter

    in reply to: Special Compound #402225

    Gents,

    Just FYI, there are a TON of them of various sorts listed on eBay.

    Peter

    in reply to: ’25 Series 80 Roadster takes 1st Place #402224

    This car is now listed for sale on eBay!

    in reply to: Special Compound #402207

    Ken,

    My grease cup is not spring loaded, it screws down.

    I also may have a few others of different types kicking around.

    I will check and advise you.

    Peter

    in reply to: Special Compound #402201

    Ken,

    You should post a photo.

    Here is a photo of my Series 80 grease cup.

    Peter

    in reply to: Series 80 Hub Caps #402186

    Randy,

    Post a photo of the four of them.

    I have a spare set and my dents and wrench marks may be less severe than are yours.

    This is why one uses Anti-Seize on the hub threads.

    Peter

    in reply to: Series 80 Hub Caps #402176

    Randy,

    I don’t believe that anyone does a reproduction of those hub caps.

    What is the problem with the set on your car?

    Are they dented, wrenched, or what?

    Attaching a photo will be helpful.

    Spares are around, but you need to ask snd look on eBay and at Hershey.

    Peter

    in reply to: Series 80 Dash Refinish #402085

    Karl,

    Are you meaning to say that our PAS members get off track?

    Peter

    in reply to: Generator #402070

    Chris,

    The paragraph in Part-2 to scan starts with: A major failure-mechanism in generators….

    Peter

    in reply to: Generator #402069

    Chris,

    Check out the link (part 2)

    Peter

    http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/91.cfm

    in reply to: Series 80 Dash Refinish #402068

    James,

    That dash piece is the same on the DeLuxe, in terms of the dash piece bending 9-degrees toward the windscreen, but then the mahogany bow fits over to create a finished look.

    You are likely correct in saying that your Coach may be missing the top finish piece.

    BTW, I like the two-type faux woodgrain on your car.

    Peter

    in reply to: Wiring diagram #402067

    Doug,

    I made a photocopy of the wiring diagram from my owner’s manual and then blew it up 100-percent.

    I then took the blow-up to Staples and had them blow it up even larger.

    I believe the current size copy I have is 11 X 14.

    While at Staples, I had them laminate it so it is preserved for posterity and so I didn’t ruin it with greasy hands as I studied it while working on the car.

    The diagrams in the OM are sufficiently detailed to tolerate being doubled in size while retaining readability.

    Peter

Viewing 20 posts - 1,001 through 1,020 (of 1,425 total)