Restoration Supply Company has 1/4 and 1/2 round on page 28 of their online catalogue
Alan,
If all else fails, I fabricated a piece that was like a hockey stick out of 1/2 round material. You can get aluminium, brass and stainless.
Alan,
How wide are the pieces you are looking for?
Max Merritt manufactures long trim pieces, but they may be too wide.
http://www.maxmerrittauto.com/showpage.php?page=body-molding.htm
Alan, sorry that is all there is.
Alan and Paul, thanks for the help.
I am really enjoying going thru the old bulletins. It is a great asset when trying to get or keep our cars running. I would recommend getting them.
I was placed in charge of keeping a collection of PA Service Bulletins from the ’60’s and found some additional information relative to this project.
1. The worm wheel can be reversed to provide a totally unworn surface.
2. Bearing preloads. The back to back bearings on the rear of the worm have
a 5 inch-pound Max preload.
3. No preload on the worm wheel bearings.
Above is from Service Bulletin 1966 Issue 4
Mark,
I was in the same boat until I found that article. The Type “A”” seems to be more common.
Bill”
Mark,
’31 is different than ’29. See attached.
Bill
http://classiccarparts-roy.blogspot.com/2007/08/pierce-arrow-tail-light-specifications.html
Kenneth and Bob,
Any information would be helpful.
Thanks
Bill
Randy,
Here are a couple of the covers and the underpiece.
I have to figure which one goes on my ’33.
Bill
Here is what I used on the Century tank.
I used Rustoleum Cold galvanizing compound on the fuel tank of my ’46 Century Sea Maid. Here is a comparison of my oil pan and the Century tank. It is a little lighter but the appearance of the surface is pretty close.
I found no signs of black paint anywhere on the pan. I caution against sanding the terne as it is about 90 percent lead and the dust is hazardous.
I am thinking along the line of Dave’s suggestion.
I have a ’33 and there is a cast iron piece that goes between this “cover”” and the cowl. If you check a parts book it may tell you if there is a similar piece for that year.”
In ’33 they went to hydraulic tappets, a first I believe.
Jim,
I have extensive experience in heavy oxy fuel and laser cut hi volume (10,000 Pc)
but not with the smaller waterjet/laser. That being said, I think the edge on the waterjet is better than the laser and since there is minimal heat for distortion I think it works better on lighter parts. Also, the laser has a tendency to bevel the edge.
I can noodle around and try to get an idea of cost, but the key variable is material and thickness. Time is time but if you can get multiple parts of the same thickness/material then you can minimize the cost. I got a set of the levers for EE-3 some guy had cut out of stainless. There were like 5 parts and he made 20 sets so there is 100 parts
Since you are providing a CAD file you can do it over email.
On the oval pieces, if all else fails and you have a pattern, then they could be laser/waterjet cut out of stainless and polished or steel/brass and then plated. I do not recommend aluminum
Bob,
It appears that the L shaft should be inserted with the hole for the clevis (the short leg of the L) at 12 O’clock or up looking from the side. If you had it at 6 o’clock or down then it would make sense that the lights would go in the wrong direction.
Just a thought.
Tom,
It sounds like you have a lever that is 180 degrees out or something is missing.
Probably should do the bevel rear end rebuild. I just found some new specs tho aid with the build
I love +8’s. Kind of the opposite of a Pierce. No weight and a lot of horsepower. I do have some Malvern Iron, ’65 +4 to Super Sport spec, ’57 +4 DHC and a ’73 +8.
The ’65 is ready for a reenactment of ’62 under 2 liter outright win at Le Mans and the other 2 are piles of parts with frames and numbers. A little difference in weight and dimensions verses my 836