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Chris,

Thanks for all your help. I was quoted $150 from San Jose, which is about 25 miles from Bob, to 1 block from my wife’s work.

For heavy not easily damaged stuff, this sounds like the ticket. You have to drop off and pickup at their store.

Thanks again.

Bill

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Chris,

That is great info. Thank you. Do you know if they had to do any packaging?

Bill

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Finally got the bull gear apart. Everything is splined together. What a marvelous piece of engineering/machining, even if it was by Timken not PA

Parts are (from left top clockwise)

1.Bull Gear with opposite side hub bearing/spider gear carrier attached

2.Spider gear/bearing hub carrier. Note the splines on the outer rim

3.Brass thrust washer

4.Driven spider gear hub to axle. In English terms a “splined muff” with a gear attached. The splines from the axle go into this piece.

5.Spyder (for those preferring the alternate spelling) gear assembly.

6. Hardened pin holding the carrier bearing plates to the Bull Gear (. Must have the head removed, either by grinding, drilling or?? then driven out.

7.Splined axle gear, opposite side from item 4, inverted.

I haven’t found any thing else to dismantle as I took off the wheel bearing retainers when I took off the axle housing halves. Thanks for everyone’s help to get to this point.

Now, can I get it back together? I will start a new thread as Assembly

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Greg,

Thanks for the feedback. I agree that the worst pit might have no contact, but there is another, I’ll call it a chip, in the middle of the gear. I have highlighted it in white. I think that it is a game changer. Your thoughts?

Bill

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Greg and David,

I am trying to get a complete rear end, backing plate to backing plate (no plates though) shipped. I guess we could take the axle trumpets off, ship the center and then ship the axles, a la Greg’s suggestion.

David, in case you were wondering, I am not shipping to your house, but my mother’s. I haven’t heard of the Fastenal method, which makes sense. My wife is involved with industrial shipments, I will check to see if she knows anything about it.

Thanks to both of you.

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Ed,

That would work for me. I have a few issues to overcome before I need an axle. Let me know how things develop. Thanks for your offer.

Bill

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Or Winchester, VA/ DC area. Sorry, I forgot to add those locations

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Don,

I have a cover that was fabricated for my switch. I need it but one might be able to make another make another. Do you have a picture of your switch you can send me and I will check to see if it is the same.

Bill

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Bob,

Thank you very much for your “been there, done that” view point. You are very kind to offer the assembly and I will take you up on it. I will get about finding a way to get it picked up from you. I will call you.

I have the opposite problem, my steel gear is pitted and has some spalling and the bronze gear is about perfect. Since the car was last on the road over 60 years ago, I don’t think it has been subjected to sulfur containing lubricants. All the oil was out, so it hasn’t been sitting in any oil. (hence the rusty bearing, non turning problem.)

I am in the process of trying to figure out how to inspect the spider gears. I have removed the rivets and am trying to separate the carrier halves from the bull gear. I have a puller designed, but those Pierce Arrow designers/engineers really like close tolerances.

I have really been interested in the markings on the components. The bronze, bull gear is stamped around the circumference with the following:

4 3/7 (which is 4.29)

C6

W12 (I think, the top is cut off by the inner radius)

29NN40 C

29S45

The outer housing is also marked.

The front of the worm gear housing is stamped A5 and the rear is +1.

The rear of the carrier housing has R2360, 730 and a number I can’t read.

There is also a cryptic stamping that looks like “X926”. but it is an over stamp and it looks like there was a 5 and some other number there before.

Thank you for your help. I know your time is valuable and I appreciate your generosity.

Bill

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Bad News Pits.

Here is a photo of the worst of the pits. I think they are from setting in the bottom where I think some water must have accumulated. Anyone have a spare or know of a repair shop?

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Bull Gear

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Here is the Worm Gear.

Couple of dismantling suggestions based on what I ran into. There may be an easier way, but it escaped me.

1. Before you remove the axle from the car, with the car in gear, remove the worm gear adjustment cover on the lower back of the center section. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the large worm gear nut. It helps to provide better resistance as it takes a lot of force to loosen.

2. I took out the Bull gear first. This requires the removal of the carrier bearing cup, or the bearing on the right side of the Bull Gear. The carrier has a lot of side play once you take off the left bearing retainer, but I had to cut the bearing cage tops off with a Dremel/abrasive cutoff wheel and take the rollers out to get enough room to remove the gear.

3. I took the worm out last. It can only be removed to the front where the oil seal is mounted.

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Here is a close-up of the tooth pattern. Wear appears minimal as the width of the teeth are pretty uniform. I am afraid I will have to take the gear assembly apart to get to the internal spider gears for inspection.

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Here is the bronze bull gear

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James,

Here is how I am pulling the front seal on the ’33. I use a carriage bolt and grind off the head to make an L that I can fit between the shaft and the edge of the bearing. Turn it 90 degrees so it is under the lip and attach to a bar. Mark the top of the bolt so you know where the small leg of the L is in relation to the race. There is a carriage bolt in the foreground of the pic.

I have the bevel gear out and it looks pretty good. The worm gear is not in as good shape with some chipping on the face. Anyone have a spare?

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As we suspected, there was a commercially available puller. Link is to a ’35 Snapon Ad.

http://www.collectingsnapon.com/catalogs/catalogs-small/1935_Catalog_KA/1935-Catalog-KA-p76.jpg

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I like the 4-11-33 pic of the two sedans with the Corn Gas. And the kids think ethanol is new. The 10% seems to be a constant.

Thanks for posting the pics, brings back my high school/college days working at gas stations

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I just measured my head pipe, which I don’t think was replaced. It is 2.250 OD x .065/.069 wall (16 ga) and is either seamless or drawn tubing, as there is no weld bead. It is obviously mandrel bent.

John’s pipes look really good.

Bill

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Here is another eBay listing

271673540273

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There is a Duplex oil can on eBay. Item 201225366446.

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