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Edgar,

I think my hub came off so easy because either 1. the puller puts less force on the taper. By that I mean it is not flexing the drum/hub that the OTC pullers do when attached to the studs and/or 2. six months or so of soaking with every penetrating oil known to man might have helped.

On the safety front. I backed off the axle nut but left it still about 1/2 way attached. I guess there is some risk of thread damage, but it keeps the hub under control when it lets go. Having pulled a lot of XK Jaguar hubs, the heavier the puller the less movement when it does let go.

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Edgar,

Thanks for the advise. I might have to go your route with a “new to this car” rear end. I have noticed a decided lack of info on the worm rears, so I think it would be fun to get it apart and see what is there and take some photos.

It is a little cold here in Atlanta, so I think it will be awhile before I get back to it.

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Greg,

Not yet. I was going to use ATF-acetone. I was also debating taking out the axles. It has been sitting so long and the outer bearings might be part of the issue. I have the rear cover off the worm gear so I can get to the nut to provide some leverage. I was going to soak with ATF and work back and forth. I think it is going to take some patience.

Bill

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Drove the adjustment bolt on the backing plate in and it released the brakes. Drum came right off. Now to see if I can get the wormgear to move.

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A couple of non Pierce observations. The front hub arrangement is similar to what is on my Morgans’ Moss/ Jag boxes. They have a thin paper gasket, because the hub retains the front bearing and you can create end float if it is too thick. I can’t tell from your picture, but how is the front bearing retained? With the hub, a snap ring,??

On the Moss box, the bolts have copper crush washers only, under the heads and are safety wired. The washers seal the bolts from oil leaks. You need to seal the heads not the threads. Aluminum washers work too.

Any bolt that is drilled, I wire. It is too hard to drill them for no good reason. Also be sure the slot in the hub is pointing down and there is a corresponding hole in the case so the oil can drain back to the box.

I was looking at the input shaft and it looked like it might have a scroll (worm) machined in it. I also didn’t see a seal surface. If it is a scroll, then the rotation of the shaft worms the oil back into the box and there may be no seal. Someone with a parts box might be able to confirm if there is a seal.

I would guess that the washer matches one of the recesses in the hub? I would guess it is a spacer and is end float related.

I have exhausted my guesses, conjectures and otherwise non Pierce specific observations. The are worth what you paid for them. Good luck.

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Success. I just installed the puller, heated either side of the keyway on the hub with a MAPP torch for a couple minutes, tightened the bolts and in about 1 1/2 turns I got a slight “pop” and the hub was off. No drama, no loud bang, no large movement.

You need to use “T” head bolts to clear the studs and the base of the 4 “ears” on the hub. I had to grind 2 sides of the heads down on my hex head bolts for clearance.

The fact that the hub has 4 ears and there are 5 studs, gives some odd spacing for the bolts to allow you to turn the machined flange 45 degrees with the bolts installed.

I used 3/4″ x 10 x 5″ Grade 8 bolts. You could probably get by with 11/16″ or 5/8″ and get some clearance that way.

Thanks to everyone for your input. I will gladly loan it out if someone wants to try it.

Now if I can just get my brake shoes to release, then I can get the drum off.

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I had to have a radius machined on the drum side to clear the studs.

This is how the parts go together, only with longer bolts.

I will let you know if and how it works

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Try Neal at Obsolete Parts and Equipment. He is in the parts and services section.

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There are some seals listed in the parts directory.

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This site might help.

http://restorecarsclassifieds.com/wiki/show_pdf.pdf?n=4677

http://restorecarsclassifieds.com/wiki/show_pdf.pdf?n=4677

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Exquisite work.

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I did a quick survey of the post 1914, (when white walls were reportedly, by Wikipedia, invented,) cars at the Hilton Head show. Roughly, 25% had black walls, including the best of show winning Stutz, along with one of the Pierces, the Duesenberg and an Auburn. I just ran thru the pictures I took and cut it off about 1938. I might have missed a car or two.

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Sorry for the picture quality. I pads can only do so much.

Here is the Pebble Beach winning Voisin

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Here is the Best Of Show

Richard Mitchell’s 1929 Stutz Model M Lancefield coupe.

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Here is Dans’ car along with a Duesenburg, Auburn V12, RR Phantom I, Cadillac V8 and A Stutz, if I recall

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I need that headlight retaining ring

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Try here.

http://restorecarsclassifieds.com/wiki/show_pdf.pdf?n=4677

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As coincidence would have it. I was talking to Ramsey Chain, in Charlotte about their steel requirements yesterday.

The guy I was talking to was very familiar with the chains for Pierces. He said they had been making then for Egge for years.

It might have been a statement of bravado , but he said if you keep them lubricated, you wouldn’t have a problem

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I like the upside down PIERCE logo on the clock

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I don’t know if he is still around, but he used to do spring gaiters.

RUDY’S – RUDY ROSALES, custom made gaitors, leather spring covers for leaf springs, steering & shock absorber joints, fabric coupling discs to order. 4086 E. 71, Cleveland, OH 44105 (800) 248-7839, (216) 641-7711 Fax: (216) 641-0060 [email protected]

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