A public thank you to Bill for the spreadsheet which was exactly what I needed! Everything but my main jets match up and I will be reaming those up to work.
Keep looking for posts regarding Bill, he has a great reputation and he was willing to stand up for a referral he made to me when I bought the 31. I wish I had waited for him to be available for my haul!
Shafts have surprisingly little wear, and every plug came out after the second bath in the cleaner. Someone suggested that the ultrasonic vibrations would help loosen screws as it cleaned the passages, could not believe how easy it was to clean the front wheel bearings with it either. Definitely worth the investment.
Tank was cleaned out and sealed by Milton Schilde and it’s running an electric pump with filter now as I don’t think the fuel pump has the correct arm for a Pierce – at least it doesn’t seem to be running on the cam like it should be and it doesn’t look like it was ever hooked up to a fuel line. The carburetor was also hooked up with rubber hoses which is a huge No-No right next to a manifold! Another thing to correct along this adventure.
Took the valve covers off this morning and have been scraping oil turds out most of today. Funny thing that other than that usual crust of crud everywhere, the working parts look pretty good so far, but I haven’t written off a set of valves quite yet and rings are looking like a must with what I saw in the borescope. Might be a while before She is trustworthy, but I don’t have anything better to do with my time right now so back to scraping muck out…
If you happen to have a picture of the correct fuel pump it would help me see if this is worth rebuilding or just blocking off.
Thanks again
Thank you Ed, as I mentioned I spent a good amount of time with John and he went through the UU-2 specs with the book in front of him. The UUR is the correct one and was most likely used to replace the UU because of volume but I should be able to get this to run right. It spent a long time in use ultrasonic tank and has all the passages are cleared out which I think was a lot of it’s problem, plus it’s missing one idle channel hole washer which I can get from Cislak once I get my full list of parts I need together. The carburetor is in real good shape considering the pot-metal issues of that period and if I’m lucky enough to trip across the UUR at a reasonable price I might get it, but there again it might still have the same internal needs as a UU… fits Bugatti and Dusey, why couldn’t it have been Buick and Chevrolet?
Thank you for the useful information Karl, I appreciate it.
I spent a half hour on the phone with John at The Carburetor Shop and he went through the books with me to verify that my carburetor was right internally, he also sold me some literature I probably didn’t need but after being that helpful I didn’t mind.
The carburetor that was on my car is basically a factory setup for the 30 model which is a very similar engine and it seems that drilling the jets up should yield better results. Don’t know if 30 had the large air horn but this one does and lined up perfectly with the air cleaner and inlet tube connected to the engine pan.
I’ll still contact Arnold as it will be a while before I need it complete again, I plan on looking at the valves and cooling system plus anything else that jumps out while I have the head & oil pan off.
I didn’t think you would get offended, my apologies…
My plan is to make it right, and be able to close the choke all the way without it getting too lean. I asked what Cislak got for a rebuild and it’s 1/4+ of what I have in the car and he doesn’t do just a rebuild it has to be done to show quality… which would not look right on an original car IMHO.
My carb has 046 jets, the PAS service bulletin lists 050 jets. Has anyone else reconfigured a carb to run on a Pierce who will answer this without telling me I’m an idiot that should throw my money at it?
Thank you.
I have to hope your doom & gloom prediction is a bit off… this is the carb from the car that had attended a few PAS meets and tours with the last owner and raced at Watkins Glen with you from other posts here… it hasn’t melted yet.
Once I get it back out of the cleaner I’ll measure the venturi and compare it to what was listed as the specs in a previous PAS Service Bulletin and see what else is there.
My picture is too large to post, I will look for your email address and send it to you.
I’m new with the a Pierce, but my car is about as original as it can get. Not only do I have absolutely no remnants of any stenciling, but the paint used looks much thinner than what is underneath your stencil. I don’t believe it’s original but I could be wrong, hopefully someone else will know for sure.
Try it again…not a fan of the URL system.
http://forums.aaca.org/topic/323006-1937-pierce-arrow-travelodge-a-class/
Try it again…not a fan of the URL system.
http://forums.aaca.org/topic/323006-1937-pierce-arrow-travelodge-a-class/
Helps that the Ford axle is half the diameter and a shorter taper, the Studebakers were known as a steady-breaker but it was actually a good running car that would go 65 no problem… Until you tried to stop with the 2-wheel mechanical brakes, then it just skidded along on those skinny tires for a long way. Amazing what a difference just a few years made in the 20’s and early 30’s.
Good advice, and exactly how I got the rear hub loose. My wife thought I had fired a gun in the garage by the clanging that 15†drum made! For some reason I expected a spline and floating hubs not a taper, but like I said before, it’s my first dance with a Pierce… Fords come apart a lot easier, come to think about it so did my Studebaker some 25-30 years ago.
You are welcome, it’s the kind of information that should be shared here. I see that there are many cars in the roster this would help but I am not sure of interchangeability to other years as this is my first dance with this particular lady…
I’ll post some pictures of my next adventure once I get the rear hubs to come free. 2 days into it and only 1 brake cable cleaned & greased and one pair of re-lined shoes. Time consuming but very necessary to be able to stop!
That didn’t work right, try this
Here’s the link, but he only lists one left. If you search by the part number and sort by lowest price plus shipping you may find another less than the K&N list price.
I’ll also mention that I bought the filter brand new from an eBay motocross parts dealer. It’s made for a motorcycle but has a large filtration surface giving plenty of air through. It was just under $30 delivered which is less than the K&N website.
You are welcome Randy.
George,that was where I was headed at first, wrapping the original inner and outer with filter wrap but the K& N website has a lookup feature that shows the filter sizes and I went searching. The original was something like 4-7/8 diameter and the new one is 5†the length was about 3/16†to 1/4†short. Flipping the old flange did two things, first it made up the length, and gave me a seat where the smaller diameter filter sat at the bottom of the can. The flange of the cover grabbed the top of the replacement just fine. It came out so well I thought it was a great idea to share.
Today’s adventure was relining two brake shoes… took a lot of pictures to remember which springs went where and a lot of swearing to loosen up the 80+ years old cable but I’m almost done with 1 wheel. Going to be a long weekend I can see!
The car was sold through his son Tim, but it is a great car for us and I’ve been pushing him to visit while on vacation down here this weekend. I can only assume his father is the same great person as he seems. We talked and texted a lot since the purchase.
I’m doing the brakes now and waiting for a carburetor kit and full wiring kit for her but planning on taking it to an AACA Show the first weekend in March so long as she stops better. I’d been looking for a car like it for a long time and am excited as heck. I’ll also be posting a lot about my adventures with big blue…
The last picture looks just like the first – You would never know what I had inside…