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I have to hope your doom & gloom prediction is a bit off… this is the carb from the car that had attended a few PAS meets and tours with the last owner and raced at Watkins Glen with you from other posts here… it hasn’t melted yet.
Once I get it back out of the cleaner I’ll measure the venturi and compare it to what was listed as the specs in a previous PAS Service Bulletin and see what else is there.
My picture is too large to post, I will look for your email address and send it to you.
I’m new with the a Pierce, but my car is about as original as it can get. Not only do I have absolutely no remnants of any stenciling, but the paint used looks much thinner than what is underneath your stencil. I don’t believe it’s original but I could be wrong, hopefully someone else will know for sure.
Try it again…not a fan of the URL system.
http://forums.aaca.org/topic/323006-1937-pierce-arrow-travelodge-a-class/
Try it again…not a fan of the URL system.
http://forums.aaca.org/topic/323006-1937-pierce-arrow-travelodge-a-class/
Helps that the Ford axle is half the diameter and a shorter taper, the Studebakers were known as a steady-breaker but it was actually a good running car that would go 65 no problem… Until you tried to stop with the 2-wheel mechanical brakes, then it just skidded along on those skinny tires for a long way. Amazing what a difference just a few years made in the 20’s and early 30’s.
Good advice, and exactly how I got the rear hub loose. My wife thought I had fired a gun in the garage by the clanging that 15†drum made! For some reason I expected a spline and floating hubs not a taper, but like I said before, it’s my first dance with a Pierce… Fords come apart a lot easier, come to think about it so did my Studebaker some 25-30 years ago.
You are welcome, it’s the kind of information that should be shared here. I see that there are many cars in the roster this would help but I am not sure of interchangeability to other years as this is my first dance with this particular lady…
I’ll post some pictures of my next adventure once I get the rear hubs to come free. 2 days into it and only 1 brake cable cleaned & greased and one pair of re-lined shoes. Time consuming but very necessary to be able to stop!
That didn’t work right, try this
Here’s the link, but he only lists one left. If you search by the part number and sort by lowest price plus shipping you may find another less than the K&N list price.
I’ll also mention that I bought the filter brand new from an eBay motocross parts dealer. It’s made for a motorcycle but has a large filtration surface giving plenty of air through. It was just under $30 delivered which is less than the K&N website.
You are welcome Randy.
George,that was where I was headed at first, wrapping the original inner and outer with filter wrap but the K& N website has a lookup feature that shows the filter sizes and I went searching. The original was something like 4-7/8 diameter and the new one is 5†the length was about 3/16†to 1/4†short. Flipping the old flange did two things, first it made up the length, and gave me a seat where the smaller diameter filter sat at the bottom of the can. The flange of the cover grabbed the top of the replacement just fine. It came out so well I thought it was a great idea to share.
Today’s adventure was relining two brake shoes… took a lot of pictures to remember which springs went where and a lot of swearing to loosen up the 80+ years old cable but I’m almost done with 1 wheel. Going to be a long weekend I can see!
The car was sold through his son Tim, but it is a great car for us and I’ve been pushing him to visit while on vacation down here this weekend. I can only assume his father is the same great person as he seems. We talked and texted a lot since the purchase.
I’m doing the brakes now and waiting for a carburetor kit and full wiring kit for her but planning on taking it to an AACA Show the first weekend in March so long as she stops better. I’d been looking for a car like it for a long time and am excited as heck. I’ll also be posting a lot about my adventures with big blue…
The last picture looks just like the first – You would never know what I had inside…
I don’t know what is worse, having to add pictures one at a time or how often I have to log back onto the messages…
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Luke, I remember all that back when it was happening, a sad thing. On the other side, I’ve used Time Saver in every one of my T’s over the years as a final burnish and if done right is really good stuff, Gen3 (his name was Tim) was third generation in the hobby but unlike his Grandfather who was a positive influence when I was 13, his father who was one of the nicest people you could find in the hobby and knew my dad fairly well, and his brother Matt who I’ve been on tours with several times and would go out of my way to help and he would be the same whether you knew him or not, Tim was nothing more than something you can think but not write on a civilized forum! I made the mistake of getting him together with a friend in Maine who was getting too old to take care of his 26 Fordor, sadly Tim puts in a homemade overhead which never ran right, burned out the bottom end and then badmouths the last owner. I had been on at least 10 tours with Bill and his car, it was not perfect but ran good. Many people in that area, myself included, couldn’t stand him and would leave when he walked over to a conversation. I can get along with just about anyone who is into old cars, but not Tim…
A lot of early cars had a loss oil system, my fathers 1908 Model S Ford was like that, it had a pump on the engine and a hole in the crankcase behind the rod dips where it leaked out. Always kept it over a pan full of oil pigs to keep the mess out of the wood floor of his barn.
That is my plan, but not in the garage, over my desk where I still plan on keeping my mascot.
