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Syd, it was someone at Apple; I will find the email
address and send to you.
Thanks, Dave. Far as I could tell, that’s the way it is.
Missed seeing you last week.
My 1931 Series 43 sedan has the Lovejoy 1650s on front, but seems ftom looking underneath that the earlier cars used the round Houdaille units. Anyway my right-front is a 1650 F and according to info provided by a known shock rebuilder, my left (driver’s side) front should be a 1650 E. If you find an extra one and a link I need them also!
We had a GREAT week! Thanks to all the planners who worked so hard; big success in our book!
Great; Kathy and I will see you early Monday afternoon.
2017. I was without shocks at St Louis last summer.
I got hung up with Five Points on my 1927’s shocks; the business was being sold to someone and I had…problems. When I finally started getting them one shock had leaked fluid in the shipping box and one had its fill plug completely stripped when I took it out of the package. The new owner tried to get everything right but I sent one shock to Apple to get it right.
I hope the new owner has it straightened out. I don’t want to hurt their business just for meaness but I am going to Apple.
One more question (sigh from everyone else…)
On the 1931 Series 43 sedan, was the entire dash woodgrained, or was the top header woodgrained and the face painted body color?
Grain-It’s display at Hershey and the demonstration and opportunity to look closely at the tools and supplies is fascinating. Last year I caught it a couple times with no one else interested, and got a really fine demonstration and explanation, one-on-one. If I understand the literature, they also do woodgraining work if you like. They seem to have knowledge of the correct patterns and colors for most cars of the era.
The dash on my Series 80 seems to have two different tones: the main panel has two shield-shaped areas on the ends with a gold band surround, simulating inlay I think, and I am not certain how this would be done. The completed one I saw is a beauty though.
The best I can do right now is suggest a Youtube video which shows a glimpse of a Series 80 dash which appears to be a well-refinished version of the one on my 1927 Series 80 Car. Search YouTube “Driving Pierce Arrow” and it should be one of the first you find. I have seen Series 80 dashes painted and with various woodgraining applied. I think mine is probably in original, unrestored condition. The steel window trim has been redone in an obviously amateur attempt that doesn’t satisfy at all.
Sean Ornduff has a couple of photos on his website, of the 1931 Series 43 he restored for Merlin, and it shows the woodgraining he did of the same part as on my ’31.
I like wood, but I really admire some of the painted steel (faux) finished trim pieces. The French luxury Car made by FACEL, the Vega, was known in part for its beautiful faux-painted steel dash (not to mention it’s hot Chrysler engine). Some of the Cadillacs and other cars of the 1930s and 1940s are very nice. I have seen a photograph of a Pierce-Arrow Series 80 dash which seems to be to have been properly refinished, and it is a beauty; I hope to have the one in my Car refinished. Perhaps we could share some photos of Pierce dashes and trim which are considered properly refinished in more-or-less correct wood grain and finish. Seems reasonable to me that this might be a good source of reference for getting these redone correctly.
EvapoRust also offer a product specifically for cleaning cooling systems: see their web site for details.
Craig is right: this would be good info for those who have wood trim, so maybe somone could advise. There are different finishes appropriate for various cars and eras.
Yep, Greg, you are right: painted steel. I know what to do now. Thanks!
Great topic so thanks. I will try this on the ’31 while the radiator is out for repair. I was planning to use citric acid but after reading about EvapoRust and your good experience I want to try it.
I cleaned on the radiator after I removed it and got practically no rust particles out; poured a gallon of lacquer thinner through it three times and got no grease out. I will rig up a container and let the engine idle and the water pump circulate it through the block.
As for doing more harm than good, it’s possible with products which are inappropriate or too aggressive. I ran into this with the 1927 Series 80 when I had to remove the head to repair a head stud thread in the block: the cooling jacket side cover on the block had a tiny drop of coolant which appeared to be weeping. When I flicked my fingernail over it, it became a stream of coolant. When I removed the cover I discovered crud built up on the inside of the plate and corrosion under the crud which had perforated the plate. I got a welder to run a short bead over the damaged area on the inside of the plate and reinstalled, and Bob’s your uncle. But if there is something wrong, IMO we need to man up, know it, and deal with it. It’s going to come to you sooner or later anyway.
“Make Sure Your Bolts Are Tight!” I continue to check bolts on my cars and am finding many are loose! Beautiful Car, and getting better all the time! Keep the photos and stories coming!
Did you convert to a modern core?
Beautiful! How did your radiator repair go? I have the one from the ’31 in the shop; can’t wait to drive her more than 5 feet but I need a radiator!
Greg yours may be rear shocks. The fronts have a straight arm. I haven’t put eyes on my Car’s rear shocks yet.
I have learned from the helpful folks at Apple Hydraulics that the correct shoks for the front of the 1931 Series 43 is: right= 1650 F; left=1650 E. The shock on the driver’s side of my Car is from the rear of a ‘32-‘34 Packard. Now I know what I’m looking for!
