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Kathy wants a ride in it when we get there!

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Good information! Thanks, Friends!

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Such caps may be available from hot-rod parts suppliers; I have seen them offered without the stamped logos for Ford wheels of that era.

Worth checking.

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I bought one of those DELCO 15715 caps to compare it to the 15436 that the Series 80 uses. Only differences I see: the 2 places provided for the hold-down clips are different; the bottom edge of the cap is not shaped to sit on the ledge machined on the distributor.

Other that these items, the caps seem identical.

Confirmed this evening that my Car’s pivot pin is insulated; the new points set I bought was in the mail box and the movable arm has a brass bushing.

Thanks Greg!

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Mine works fine, although it has had nail polish applied in a few places. I would like to eventually get a spare though. I have contact points coming.

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I suppose then the generator-distributor has only one name-data plate, and my data plate is not missing after all. The number 300 corresponds to all I have found also.

Thanks!

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The Cap on Ebay might work but it is a different cap: the Series 80 takes a DELCO 15436 and the one listed is a 15715. I attach a Snip for a visual comparison.

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Looks almost identical; at any rate thanks for the lead.

I was offered one nos in the box, $325; had to think about that a while.

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Not an expert but I would consider that Pierce-Arrow may have bought either the latches or the entire cover from a vendor, and there may be similar ones used on other Cars.

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Ha! That’s my official Rolls-Royce Owners’ Club cup; it won’t hurt you (much; at first…).

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What a beautiful little engine and a great find! This engine is part of a historic chain of engines of the De-Dion-Bouton family.

There was a Motorette participating in the London-Brighton Run in 2015 when I was there. Beautiful little Car.

Keep sharing!

RR

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I laughed out loud when I saw this one; you gotta have a sense of humor!

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I bet someone long ago said “There! I fixed it!”””

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Check out my Car’s thermostat housing, post-glass bead cleaning: no aluminum here. It appears to be made of at least three pieces of steel, one of which is a length of exhaust tubing, welded (is that a weld?) together.

I sent a note to Wayne Hancock, about the replacement he is said to offer.

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The thermostat I removed was made by Waxstat in England, setopoint is 86C or 180F.

The Car Quest 30116 seems to be about 167 F which seems suitable for something old; I wasn’t having temp trouble before so I don’t know if it makes a significant difference but what would you use: lower temp or higher?

This unit cross-references to a common Mercedes-Benz application and provides a block off on the inlet side; seems the block off would simply do nothing when used in the Series 80 head. M-B 1152000315; 1162000015; 1162000215; 22031775; and a lot of others. For the Mercedes, the setpoint is 167F

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We have some large-bore engines (14-18 inch) which have drilled passages and coolant flowing to them via an exterior manifold, to direct more cooling to particular spots: exhaust seat areas and prechambers, usually. They work .

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Photos of restored Cars I have taken show regular nuts. That’s what I am using for now.

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Good ideas, Fellows. I did torque all the other studs anyway, and they all went to torque with minimal movement; additionally each one will ring if tapped on the side with a small wrench. For some reason (age? 90 years…) this one turned loose at some time in the past, since the overhaul circa 2004.

Are the correct head nuts just nuts? I was not planning to use acorn nuts; are they correct? I know the nuts and washers I found on my Car are zinc-plated hardware-store items. I was planning to use hardened washers and nuts, plain or phosphate finish, from a professional source.

You are right about the fits. At work we run into a lot of studs with class 5 fit which were never intended to be removed. You have to be careful when replacing with class 3 so we use gauges.

The Timesert-type repair is what we typically use at work; the bushings are made to order, not commercially available, but they have the strength of the original and we use them in critical applications (i.e. pressure).

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Enjoyed; thanks for sharing.

Hard work indeed; don’t forget all the hard work and sacrifice that came before us: another reason to preserve fine Pierce-Arrow Cars!

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Turns out the stud looks good; there was thread sealer or some similar substance in the thread root; cleaned up great with a die.

Ordering a gasket from Olson’s and the Timesert is on the way.

Thanks!

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