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Greg, the stud looked pretty good other than the threads damaged by pulling so I suspect the block rather than the stud is the root cause. The engine in my Car was rebuilt after the PO bought it and the threads is this spot were maybe already marginal and just let go. It wasn’t at all tight when I first put a wrench on it. Every other one was quite tight and barely moved during the retorque.
Timesert: will use this. Thanks!
Just made our reservation; can’t wait!
I like your colors; I think it would look great with a black top and interior.
“Old”” gold to bronze fine lines?”
No jump seats because there wasn’t room due to the close-coupled design, I suppose.
Lesson I learned from this: either a credible story hopefully with receipts documenting engine-transmission-mechanical work at some time in the past are available; alternatively a “heavy” inspection; i.e. oil pan off for a look; or else a suitably discounted price.
It is entirely possible to own a nice car for years, hardly ever drive it, and be completely unaware of the internal condition of things. I’m OK with that until we start talking purchase price.
Thanks, Jak. In my opinion my jack would work better if it gripped both sides of the rim: it seemed prone to slip out of place at each critical moment. Nevertheless I was able to get the rim together by jacking it as far back in place as I could without the jack slipping out of place, then by using a large screw driver and a couple bumps with a hammer I snapped the rim back in place. The rim had a heavy Cotter pin in the latch; I wonder if this is the correct lock for the rim but it seemed sufficient at least.
The new tire is pressured up and I plan to use the new tire on the right-front, taking that tire to the spare and rotating the other three.
Thanks, Greg. I did get it together exactly as you suggested: with a very little levering. You are right about the potentially “explosive” nature of the rim jack.
I am not a risk-taker, and especially for the first time I measure several times before I cut.
Seems it’s just a 1/4 turn brass drain cock which was and is still a standard hardware item; a quick search of my Grainger and McMaster-Carr catalogs reveal several candidates which could serve well once a slight modification to the handle is made and the extension handle pinned on.
I think I will stick with my drain plug but I did think about replacing it.
There is one that appears to be almost exactly like the one in the above photo, except without the “Pierce” label, at this site:https://www.rubylane.com/item/460150-2576/1930s-Curly-Silk-Wool-Auto-Lap
It’s sure expensive, but at least it’s a couple of photos you might be able to use.
If they aren’t available, figure out how to make them and offer them for sale here.
Agree completely with Greg here: Our Cars once lived in the Real World, and that’s the way it is.
I’m just glad my Car wasn’t made into a tow truck or farm truck (or an Army tank, for that matter…) sometime in the past 90 years!
Hi, Charles, thanks for sharing your interesting truck, and welcome!
Steering wheel resembles a Lincoln Zephyr-Continental.
Thanks, Peter! I will need to reexamine the aft torque arm joint on my Car.
Someone already mentioned that earlier; I don’t know how I missed it. I scare myself sometimes…
Thanks!
Roger, Stuart: How many times were the words “She’ll kill me”” muttered while we walked around it?”
The fellows are right: Glyptal is for the inside. I did not mean to be so imprecise.
The aluminum crankcase on my Series 80 is plain not finished in any way far as I can tell and it looks fine to me, especially for a driver.
Looks like the Car we saw during the Gilmore weekend: a real beauty! Congratulations!
Glyptal is one product, commonly called crankcase paint, but really a casting sealer. Aluminum castings are commonly porous and will seep. I have seen castings smoothed with body fillers for that smoooth look. Seems to me that an exterior finish similar to the original is sufficient but for show cars a better finish is easier to clean and will withstand more cleaning. One shop I visited painted all engines with Imron 2-part: silver for the aluminum crankcases and gloss black or other appropriate color for the remainder. They did look really good. Maybe a clear sealer on the aluminum castings is what they were recommending, but the ones I saw which had the castings painted silver looked like new aluminum.
It seems to consist of a sheet-steel box which partially encloses the exhaust and intake manifolds, with an opening just behind the engine fan and an opening in the firewall to allow the engine fan to move air past the exhaust manifold and into the passenger area. The pull knob may be the reason there is an unused hole drilled on my Car’s dash.
Francisco also claimed an advantage to heating the intake manifold in cold weather which is probably somewhat valid in that era, given that there were often connections between the manifolds which the OEM intended for positive effects in cold weather.
