Close up of the bulb focus mechanism.
Picture to show depth and the bulb focus assembly.
My reflectors can focus the bulb using a screw that moves the bulb socket in or out of the reflector.
The reflectors measure 9.50″ from lip to lip and are about 5″” to the tip of where the bulb socket goes into.
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I went out and took apart a headlight on my very late ’29 Model 143.
The headlight lenses are Twolite and are 9.25″ across.
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Congratulations on the purchase of a beautiful Pierce and welcome to the wonderful world of Pierce Arrow ownership.
As you have found, the PAS is full of great members with a wealth of knowledge.
I doubt you’ll find a finer group of people than the members of this organization.
Enjoy your new Pierce.
Looks like a nice car.
Good luck to your friend with his quest to acquire the car.
Are those sealed beam headlight?
Here is the Amazon link for the book.
It ships free with Prime.
Those that have the book or have read it should post a review to help promote the book on Amazon.
Welcome to the wonder world of Pierce Arrow ownership.
This group of folks is the best bunch you’ll ever find and there is an endless amount of knowledge given freely here.
I really like the way Pierce designed the rear of your car.
Whit the main body of the radio up under the dash you probably won’t hear much but it is definitely a neat accessory from the era.
When it is done I bet it will be gorgeous.
Rick, I’ve seen cars with trippe lights and chrome radiator stone guards that just look a little over done for my taste.
Not that they didn’t look great but they just looked a little bit too much in my opinion.
I do like trippe lights as lone as the radiator has painted shutters behind the.
I am anxious to see your car when it is complete and I hope you’re completely pleased with the results.
Ed, the trippe light on your car looks a little small and kind of lost given the overall size of a ’32 front end.
As for the spare tire mounted mirrors, the ones on my car have proven useful when I am backing into parking spaces or doing other parking lot maneuvers.
I do admit that they are pretty useless otherwise but I like their look and I’m sure my car left the factory with them so they will stay.
I really like the blue on your ’36 wouldn’t have been my choice but it works great on the car.
I would have never had the guts to choose such a color but the color works wonderfully on the car.
Tim, it sounds like you’re definitely on the right track with the resistance problems once the system is hot.
As was discussed in an earlier thread, make sure all of your battery cables are up to snuff and that your ground connections are fresh and tight.
I tracked down a warm start problem on my ’26 Rickenbacker to an internally corroded cable from the starter contact to the starter.
The cable looked fine on the outside but had developed corrosion under the insulation.
Running extra ground cables also seemed to help as well.
I actually prefer that if the original colors are known then I would restore the car using the factory color scheme.
I know changing the colors can make the car more appealing but I always rather liked the factory color combinations.
Coming along nicely.
Were the ends of the air cleaner chrome or were some painted?
I think all the ones I’ve seen were always chrome.
I know our resident experts here will know.
I agree about keeping a Pierce as original as possible since the cars are pieces of history that should be preserved.
For more modern cars like my ’64 doing some mods are fine with me as long as everything can be returned to stock with minimal effort.
I plan on keeping my Pierce as original as possible for as long as possible since it is a true survivor with original paint, drive train and interior (except for the driver’s seat). We had distributor problems during the Temecula meet which prevented us from completing any of the tours so we missed out on the judging.
The car ran fabulous in Oregon at the 2006 meet and around town so maybe we had a false sense of security and didn’t have spare points and condensers on hand. We thought it was a bad rotor but one picked up during the swap meet didn’t completely fix our issues.
That said, personally, I will not be modifying my Pierce at all.
I plan to pass it down to the next generation as I am our family’s 3rd generation owner.
I’ve had a Pertronix setup in my ’64 Chevelle for at least 24 years and it has run great with the under-cap system.
The system has never had a single issue and back when it was installed the car was my daily driver so it has at least 100K miles on it now. I carry a set of points and a condenser in the trunk but I’ve never needed them.
I guess it all comes down to preference.
I would have never thought of going that way in the Pierce but at least it’s an option for those that want to go in that direction.
Sounds like a great way to reward the hard work that has been done and a good way to motivate further work on the car.
A vid posted to youtube would be great.
Merry Christmas to my extended PAS family.
Merry Christmas everyone.
Be safe during all of your travels.
Rick, the chassis looks great!
Your progress is coming along nicely.
Merry Christmas.
As long as you’re confident he is up to the job then let him take the time he needs to get it done right.
Your car is moving at a breakneck pace so maybe this little delay will give you some more time to mull over cosmetic decisions.