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Each ounce adds 1/64 inch to the thickness, thus, 2 ounce leather (the weight of a square foot of the hide) is 1/32 inch thick.
Is that woven material asbestos?
Peter, I can appreciate the warning. However, woven, or bonded, asbestos poses no threat whatsoever to anyone’s health. It’s only when it’s made into dust, or in the OSHA terminology “becomes friable”, does it pose an inhalation danger.
There may be some slight loose material from wear, but as long as it doesn’t become airborne it’s not a danger. Wipe it down, don’t use an air stream.
Thus, handling asbestos pads or brake shoes is no problem, while sanding or grinding on them to make them fit does pose an issue.
Indeed, a reference that involves Earl “keep your boots on for traction” Long.
I have a picture of what I believe is that ’34 in my files, when it was for sale in the 1980’s, and back when you had to ask for pictures in the mail. I almost bought it, but we all know what almost means…
Very nice solution to the problem and great write up, thanks for sharing. I tried to make some corners using just leather, was not overly pleased with result.
I have a hide of nice black 2 ounce leather in my stockpile, if anyone needs some let me know.
The good thing about your car (from a trimmer’s perspective, that is, there are a LOT of other good things about it!) is that, with the lower top, it will fit into a regular height garage. That’s the problem right now with the 1919 top I’m doing, I can’t finish it in my workspace, not enough ceiling height. So, basically, we’ll have the top framework on a jig that replicates the body mounting, I’ll rough out the top pieces, then final fitting will be on the car at another location.
One fun thing about the 1919, the wood bows are covered with leather where they show on the sides of the car. This is wrapped around, with the seam hidden under the screwed-on irons. Earlier cars had leather wrapped sockets, with the seam visible.
You’ll find that the side curtains are just about as expensive as the top. To do them correctly takes a lot of time and detail work, plus the fitting to the car. If you have a set of old side curtains, make sure your trimmer uses them for reference, not pattern, as they can shrink and stretch in funny ways. The side curtains must be fit to the car as they are made…..
Great car, sounds like you’re having a blast with it! And yes, the Pierce Arrow gang is a great group, remember, we’re not just a club, we’re a Society!
Great story of the drive!
Wish we were closer, that would be a fun car to put a top on. I have a 1919 top that I’m working on now, in between other jobs.
That said, I’m trying to get out of the trimmer work, I do it as a hobby now that I’m retired, but I’m not getting any of my own work done!
Bill, that’s a very handsome Pierce, congratulations!
The top profile is more 1930 than 1916! I’d be interested to see the mechanism (steel framework). The low top does make a nice appearance.
I would suggest you put the tie downs to the axle, not the wheels as shown, as that point load would put undue stress on the spokes. I think I can see a winch cable attached to the axle, which is good.
Welcome to the Wonderful World of Pierce Arrows!
Mike, nice car! Could you send me, or post here, a picture of the clamps that are on the crossbar? I’m assuming they hold the stone guard in place. Thanks [email protected]
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
We’ve been getting very little snow in Virginia, so a picture without it will have to do….but my little man does have his raincoat on, just in case of rain!
Industrial chrome plating was “invented” early in the 20th century, but not perfected until 1924. In 1927, chrome started showing up on some automobile parts, particularly bumpers.
My personal experience has been that chrome seemed to start really showing up on and in automobiles around 1929. Prior to that, most brightwork was nickel plated.
Chrome (for automobile decorative use, excluding hard chrome which is a totally different subject) is actually a very thinly deposited layer over brightly polished nickel. While nickel will tarnish easily, the chrome won’t, thus it became very popular for bright work…
You can read more on attached link is so inclined….
Funny how, with such a limited number of Pierce automobiles extant, they’re known by previous owners.
It won’t mean much to a lot of you, but there are a LOT of Louisiana old car guys that know my ’31 phaeton as “Drew’s Pierce”, a tribute to a gentleman named Drew Navarre from New Orleans who bought the car in 1959,restored it 1959/1960, and toured it extensively through the 60’s and 70’s, and literally wanted to sell it to me in the 1980’s.
I’m forever thankful to him for letting me be the next caretaker….
Yes, thanks Ed…I have the calipers out and am working on the correct dimensions for the “H” that best can meet the shape of the window..and since these will need some hand shaping, have asked about how friendly the rubber compound might be to cutting and shaping….more to come…
My quote is from Ames, the company that bought some of the Karr Rubber equipment and dies…they’re actually trying to find the die that was used, but that’s a long shot as dies and molds went every whichaway when business was auctioned ….I’ve worked up dimensions, but Ed, if you have a dimensional drawing or a scrap of the run you made, that’d sure help..
I love the fact that in 1971, the car could have been bought for a reasonable sum…sure wish I’d known more about Pierce Arrows then, but in Louisiana back then, Classics, much less Pierce Arrows, were rare…
The good news is that it will be in public view, more or less, for a year. Wish it could go to the real Pierce museum for a while…this is, with all due respect to Jim, the Buffalo museum..
OK thanks, with the above responses and a phone call I received, I believe I’ll proceed..it takes 5 weeks to get rubber made, so will get going on it…thanks!
So sorry to hear of her passing, I didn’t know her, but have admired Fay for a while for being such a gentleman.
Is there a memorial fund set up, possibly the Museum/Foundation?
I remember seeing the spray on chrome video with Leno, interesting, as he mentions might be an option for interior components…
The short answer is that your carburetor is most likely not jetted correctly, and you’re running a very rich air/fuel mixture.
I’m sure the better mechanics will jump in! But the clues you mention sure point to a carb problem…
Close up…
Greg’s the one to go for on mechanical questions!
As for straps and top parts, if Karl can’t help you, try Antique Top Hardware Company, they have straps and buckles of all kinds, and can custom make what you need…
