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I left you a message on home phone, Stu, thanks!
I’ve mentioned this before, I too have a Model 43 touring/phaeton, and had John Cislak rebuild the carburetor. I was amazed at the difference in how the car both sounds and responds, a great improvement.
A correct UUR2 will set you back quite a few Pound Sterling, but you’ll be very happy if you get one that John has rebuilt.
What is the body number of you car? Just curious to compare to mine, I know Bob Dluhy’s car is within a few numbers of mine…..
Your best bet is to contact John Cislak, he has tons of parts….
OK. I’m always outspoken. But, come on Dennis, ask for help, don’t threaten us with the ubiquitous SBC. At least threaten us with something interesting, a Hemi is a little much, but a well sorted Ford 429 might be interesting.
There are resources to fix your car.
In other words, sheesh…fix it or sell it…..
It’s been interesting to watch the values of Pierce Arrow cars over the years.
While the value is not the driving force for me being in the hobby, and it was fairly meaningless for a number of years, current values have one talking to their banker and financial planner occasionally. This was not the case in the ’70’s and most of the ’80’s, you bought a car because you enjoyed it more than the money it cost.
For a while, a Pierce (excuses to Rodney Dangerfield) “got no respect”. Put a Packard phaeton up for sale, put a Pierce phaeton up for sale, the Packard would bring two times or more the money.
I’ve watched that change, as we all have. Early 30’s, there’s some parity, and the comparison becomes meaningless in the late 30’s. For example, I have a 1938 Super Eight convertible coupe, and it’s worth far less than the comparable (and only) ’38 Pierce of the same body style.
I’ve also watched as closed cars have increased in value. For a long time, a closed Pierce was an inexpensive entry into the world of both PAS and Full Classic status. Now, a nice closed Pierce brings good money, and with the exception of certain custom bodied cars, in the Packard money or more.
While one has to be careful these days to buy a good car, one also has to understand that they need to buy a car they really like, can enjoy, can use, and meet the wonderful people in our hobby.
It always amazes me that people will give little thought to spending $40K on a new car, which is worth half that four years later, but to spend the same on a Classic….oh my gosh, I have to get my money back and then some if I decide to sell it….ignoring the fun, friends, places that the Classic can give to you….it’s an investment in memories, not for your estate..
Whew, that’s a long step off this soapbox, but I’ll take it now…
I agree with your comment, what a neat car….a number of interesting features that would always be comment worthy…no sidemounts (which I actually like) to name just one….I will say the trunk and rear mounted spare look a little awkward, spare in that large trunk would be preferable…
There are much more knowledgeable (is that a word?) guys and gals on this forum than myself, but the main thing to consider when buying a 12 is condition of engine.
Previously discussed on the forum, so I won’t mention numbers again, but the difference between a well sorted, excellent V-12, and one that needs a rebuild, is huge…and your retirement fund will be stressed.
Don’t get me wrong, great cars, putting your foot into a 12’s torque is amazing, I’ve owned one and driven one recently, and there’s nothing like it. Dollars and sense, though, just be careful….
I have a fellow 15 miles from me, he’s rebuilt starter and generators on my ’31 Pierce, our ’38 Packard Super Eight, and our ’27 Dodge cabriolet (the last of which has some oddball Northeast assemblies). Cost for each unit has been around $100, he does very nice work out of an itsy bitsy shop. As mentioned, one day it won’t be possible to find such talent.
Well done, Karl, you identified the major problem….and I retract my advice, listen to Karl! It’s wonderful to have the forum, and the Internet in general, to tap the vast knowledge that’s out there…I’ve seen obscure questions asked and answered many times…
Thanks, received pictures, your top has some interesting details that are not on the one I’m looking at. Appreciate the pics….
That’s interesting, Jim, and your reasoning to think it’s original is sound. Curious to hear from others what they found and/or put under the top material. I know closed cars of the 30’s had construction as I described.
Your generator needs to be polarized, I believe, to reverse the polarity. There are discussions on the Internet about how to do so, but it depends on the system you have.
It’s not moving wires, it’s a momentary surge of current through the generator that makes it “push”” electricity the direction you wish….”
I stand, or sit, corrected by the Master, Ed! I didn’t know radios were offered that early for cars, I thought it was late 20’s.
At $1200 in 1922, it would have been cheaper just to hire a one man band to ride with you!
Bob is correct, when first radios were put in cars and into the 30’s, the chicken wire was used as an antenna. If you plan to do this, make sure no part of the chicken wire touches the body metal, it needs to be completely isolated on the wood framework.
’26 would be too early for a radio (factory or period aftermarket), I think, as far as originality goes…
I’m sure many know better than I, but you want very low pressure, in the 3 to 4 psi range. You can buy pumps with that low pressure rating.
The little chrome pressure regulators sold in auto parts stores are junk. If you must put a regulator in line, buy a quality unit.
Also, decide how to wire the pump correctly, I just heard the story of pulling power through the ignition system, drawing too much current from the system and causing issues with engine.
Make very sure you have a positive way to cut off the fuel pump in an emergency. I had an engine fire in my ’31, thought I’d turned off the pump, but didn’t….and the results were bad, luckily not disastrous. I run only a mechanical pump on it now for that reason, may take a few more turns of the engine, but that’s how it was done back then and that’s good enough for me…..
Nice work! I’m sure you know the process, but over the roof slats goes chicken wire, then a layer of material (muslin or a tight weave burlap), then a thin cotton pad, then top material. Don’t use foam, it will disintegrate in 8 or 10 years and leave you without padding. There used to be an additive added to foam for longevity, about 10 years ago or so the gub’ment outlawed it, caused cancer. Foam is now sold in years, 8 year foam, 10 year foam, which is a fine life for furniture, but not our antique cars!
Here are the exact weights and comment from a previous discussion on this medal: The reproductions were made of an alloy (possibly aluminum) and are very light (in weight, and also a different color). I was once told that the replicated medals were made by an individual, so not sure if they were PAS distributed. The originals are relatively rare.
If you want to be 100% sure, ask him to weigh it for you. The reproductions weigh 2.1 ounces, the original will weigh 5.3 ounces.
It appears to be the slightly lighter color of the reproduction, the originals are a darker metal. If you pick it up and it seems light, it’s a reproduction, the originals have a good heft to them.
That would be a neat piece, restored, for a museum or individual which/who had space! Would be expensive to restore, and the asking price is a tad much, maybe some decimal point modification would find an interested buyer!
There is an original medal, and a reproduction medal. The original is very heavy, I think 5 ounces or so. The reproduction medal is very light, about 2 ounces. In a previous thread I put the exact weights, but that’s close enough to tell real from repro. The repro is low value, maybe $20 if you had to have one, the original more valuable, I think the last one that sold on Ebay was $150 or so, it did have a few dings in the edges though…
