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Viewing 20 posts - 1,121 through 1,140 (of 1,519 total)
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  • in reply to: Sealing A Cork Carburetor Float #399906

    If you use real cork, not a glued together composite, there is no need to seal the cork against gasoline. It naturally will not significantly absorb the liquid.

    I realize that this is a hard sell, but it’s true, and it’s why cork is used in so many applications to seal liquid containers. Cork is unique in that it has a very tight cell structure, and those cells are small and filled with air, thus any absorption is greatly minimized.

    in reply to: Year of manufacture license plates #399905

    In the overall cost of things, I know it doesn’t matter, but just for reference: repainting a plate devalues it to a license plate collector. Most such collectors prefer original paint on the plate, even if not in perfect condition. Someone putting YOM plates on a car may not care, of course.

    If you can find a nice set of plates, consider using them unrestored, there’s character in that patina!

    in reply to: No engine yet!!!!!! Grrrrr #399879

    The trials and tribulations of a restoration are well known to everyone on this forum. It’s an interesting experience of project management, patience, accounting, patience, coordination of trades, and last but not least, patience.

    I have a friend that owed me a favor, he said he’d rebuild an engine for me, for free, I just had to pay for parts. It took seven (yes, 7) years for me to get the engine back completed. Whew, as they say, give me patience and I want it RIGHT NOW!

    in reply to: 1242 7 Passanger Sedan Heads To Auction #399864

    That sedan is stunning. I’ve never been a fan of clear coat, but hard to argue with the look of that paint job. And, as one who’s owned a V-12, there’s nothing to compare with the power and feel of same.

    Fabulous car, am sure it will find a good home……

    in reply to: 1929 DC Phaeton restoration creeping along. #399850

    Agree, thanks for updates on progress.

    We all want to do restorations quickly so that we might enjoy driving the cars, but remember, the best laid plans of mice and men aft gang aglay….

    in reply to: 1929 DC Phaeton restoration creeping along. #399831

    You can use Quik-Poly to seal wood that has rotten, it would be very acceptable on a small area. West System, which is used on boats, is also a two part epoxy, but doesn’t seem to have the soaking power of Quik-Poly.

    I had the same problem with my ’31 phaeton, driving along was fine, when you backed off gas water would overflow.

    I took a metal freeze plug the same diameter as the inside diameter of the top radiator hose, drilled a 5/8 inch hole in it, and installed in the upper hose right at the inlet to top radiator tank. This slows down the water flow to top tank, eliminates the run over, and doesn’t hamper cooling.

    If your radiator water is foaming, the cause is usually air being pulled through the seal at water pump. Make sure the packing is sufficient and packing nut drawn down correctly, and check your water pump grease (as it helps seal the shaft also). Make sure to use actual water pump grease, as it won’t be “washed away”” like regular grease.”

    in reply to: old top material wanted #399719

    Sorry if I was seemingly mysterious! 1910 Reo, pictured…

    in reply to: Wheel Locks #399711

    Well, shucks, never thought of the ring issue with tire going flat….now I’ll have to dig them out and install, I need to change 3 of the lock rings anyway, I have 3 Pierce rings and 3 Studebaker rings on the car now, and they are different at the open part. I do have three correct rings to go on the car thanks to a great member of the PAS, though!

    And no, the Studebaker rims aren’t available, they’re owed to my Louisiana friend Mr. Smith…..

    in reply to: Wheel Locks #399682

    Thanks, Karl, interesting back story, I’d sure get some cast if I had the casting pattern….missed that auction completely!

    in reply to: 1908 Pierce Great Arrow One of a Kind #412703

    The “Great Arrow” that started this thread was an artwork that had a very high price tag for a modern piece….I agree that an original Great Arrow should be worth a lot, at least half a zillion…

    in reply to: Wheel Locks #399675

    I have a set, not yet installed, that are cast brass. I believe these were reproduced sometime in the last 20 years.

    I realize they should be on the car for safety, but I’ve run the car for over 30 years without them with no problems so far.

    in reply to: Restoration back up and moving. 1929 DC phaeton #412702

    Thanks for the update.

    Many times, I’ve found that people doing work for you (whether it be in industry, home repair, or in this case car restoration) tell you what they think you want to hear, NOT the truth…..thus “sure, it’ll just be about two weeks” when they know there’s no way….but they’re trying to make you, the customer, happy, and they end up doing just the opposite…

    in reply to: copake auctions #399656

    Wow, that’s an impressive price….and I still say the Pan Am shaft drive they sold a year ago was a better deal at 7500…..but that sure sets the bar for shaft drives!

    in reply to: “bendy wood” #412696

    I worked on a couple of airplane seats that they did, had a wooden trim piece that followed the curves of the aluminum seat skin. They used ammonia to make the wood “bendy”. There was no residual ammonia smell, and it was directly against the aluminum with no apparent problem. Anhydrous ammonia evaporates quickly at room temperature, the method they use is to put wood in a closed container with the ammonia, such as a length of PVC pipe.

    in reply to: Seat belts at last! #399638

    The subject of adding seat belts to cars not designed for them has been discussed many times. I think the best statement made above is that the addition of belts allows the young kids to participate!

    Make sure that backrests and cushions are firmly secured, you don’t want to be held in place while the seat is loose.

    Don’t modify the seat belts to be able to install them. I do trim work, and have had people ask me to cut, shorten, re-sew seat belts. I will absolutely not do that, as factory stitching and thread is important, and liability too great.

    Speaking of liability, if you were to sell any car you’ve added belts to, I’d advise removing them before the sale. Since it’s a modification to the original car, if something happened down the road (so to speak), you could find yourself in court. You may be found innocent, but it costs money to get there…

    in reply to: “bendy wood” #399637

    I have a friend who is in the business of replicating early aircraft, more specifically Wright flyers. They bend a lot of wood, have used steam in the past, but now trying the method of soaking the wood in an ammonia mixture. I don’t know exact details, but it’s a high concentration of ammonia, and after soaking wood in it for a number of hours, the wood is like a workable plastic and bends very easily…

    in reply to: coolant consumption #399524

    As a side note, Robert had contacted me a little while ago, on the coolant loss…my advice was to get the correct grease in the water pump, and add a flow restrictor in the top hose. I know this is subject for debate, but I had a lot of liquid overflow my ’31 radiator when I let off the gas at speed. I took a freeze plug the same OD as the ID of the top radiator hose, drilled a 5/8 inch hole in it, and installed it right against the top radiator neck inside the hose. These two things eliminated all “coolant usage”” and the car runs well within temperature limits in all degrees of weather. Just my two cents…”

    in reply to: 1910 Pierce 4 cylinder motorcycle on eBay #399511

    There are early Pierce motorcycle parts and pieces being made overseas, I believe it’s in Poland or a neighboring country. A few years back, I had the chance to buy a complete 4 cylinder engine, and I was quoted a price from the fellow overseas to fabricate the remainder of the bike.

    So yes, as Ed says, be well aware of what you’re buying these days. There are cars (and motorcycles)being built right now from the barest of original parts.

    in reply to: Dismantled Oil Cooler-FYI #412685

    The first Pierce that I restored was a wonderful original 1934 840 sedan. I wish I had it to do over again, the gray body paint was so nice that, when I put the unrestored body back on the restored chassis, people asked why the primer was so shiny….but in the 70’s and 80’s, you had to restore them.

    Point is, I knew nothing of Pierce cars, but when I took the oil cooler apart I sensed a problem coming. I fabricated an oil line to fit exactly where the “cooler” would be, and installed…and the car was a fantastic running car with no hint of any oil problems….

Viewing 20 posts - 1,121 through 1,140 (of 1,519 total)