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I am actively involved in selling my real estate portfolio and my tax advisor said I could not sell a real estate investment and buy a classic car as an investment as it is not classified as “like kind”. I thought I should be able to “sell” an investment for another investment. I use one of the most prestigious exchange agents in the country, Starker Services.

They have been my intermediaries in several large 1031 real estate exchanges I have made.

If there is some way this can be done, I would be very grateful to know how it can be done legitimately and legally and sell a real estate investment and buy investment cars. Thanks!

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“.As for an exchange of one antique car for another antique car,the rules of a section 1031 exchange should apply” No. Check a tax attorney Real estate to real estate in 1031 exchanges

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I have my car in storage and when I get to it, will have a closer look. Mine has the cans in place. See if I can remove one and help you. At least a picture.

The “Golden Age”” Book. Great info. Lets us know what our cars were just like when they came from the factory.”

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Richard, is your car a Series 4? Looks like mine. Just forward of the water pump. A big spring holds mine down. Machine oil on the driver side and neatsfoot on the passenger side.

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Richard, I just talked with Alan Schmidt. Great guy and gave me some good advice about our 1916.

He uses brake material as clutch pads. Usually, fit into a cup-shaped holder. Grind the brake material to fit. Glue, screw or rivets. He feels that the clutch brakes can be more trouble than worth. Often he backs them out where they are “out of the way”” and forget about them. Enough heavy oil in the transmission and no real need to stop the clutch brakes.

Did not realize that the clutch should only be depressed about 3/4 way.”

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Bill, if you just want to rotate to get rid of the groove there is no reason to remove them. You can just turn them, there is no alignment, just a spring inside the housing to push them back into place. If you want to turn them over and put the other side towards the clutch then yes just remove the screws holding them and turn them over.

This sounds like a great fix! Will try it.

Richard V Anderson, I heard that Alan Schmidt drives a PA series 4, like mine. maybe he will have some of these pads. Will call him.

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Will see about pulling my clutch disks and see what I can do. Here is the one from a 1912 Pierce about 2 1/4 diameter

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I have some clutch disks from a 1912. These are about 2 1/4″ in diameter and about 5/16 thick, With three equidistant holes. However, he says that a Series 4 has smaller disks possibly about one inch.

Suggests I pull the disks in my car, rotate so that some of the still good surfaces will properly contact the clutch until I can get new ones.

Also, suggest I contact Alan Smith with Restoration Supply. He drives a Series 4. And maybe he can get some for me. I also appreciate the several people here for helping me get this done. I will pull my disks and see what I have.

If I could get the material. I can probably drill the holes using my old one(s).

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BTW “Leather clutch”??? The understanding technology of 1916 reminds me of science fiction book written by John Jacob Astor, “A Journey In Other Worlds”, 1894.

He described the space suits as composed of “Leather, cork, and glass….”

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All good info, especially Greg Long! But thanks from all. My car does have a leather cone, recently done. The previous owner suggested that I install leather pads on the clutch brake.

I did pull the floorboards, it was a little dark, but I saw the absolutely weirdest clutch assembly I have ever seen in a car! Looks like the clutch brake pads should be able to reach.

I hope to get on this soon. I would like to be sure if there is a better material for the pads. I am very interested in authentic, but sometimes recent tech may be a good idea. I have a brake shop near me that has made some bonded brake shoes for other cars.

They can do what I ask, but want to get the best lining that will not hurt the car where it contacts with the metal.

I understand about dangers of asbestos, and appreciate warnings. I will be careful if I use that kind of pads.

So, is there a consensus about the best lining? Seems like some kind of Kevlar like the bands in my Model T?

Sorry about slow answering, I forgot to check the box to receive responses. Now done.

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William D. Scorah and John Crowell Thank you for your input. I always want to know and your comments are good to know opinions about the history of our car. Please let me know anymore. I appreciate that you have made these observations kindly and presented in a gracious manner.

I like the car in many ways. New information does not, in the slightest way diminish my pleasure in the car. With the pedigree built in 1916 and upgraded (possibly, probably) in the 1920s is a great combination to me. I really like the lowered, sporting lines that influenced my purchase.

I will check the wheels all around. I suspect the previous owner tightened then,

John, is there a picture of your FR Body Pierce?

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I have just ordered Alumibrite, Wenol and Meguiars Final Inspection.

I want to find the article in HCCA about brands that age and give brass a patina. I like patina.

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Great car! You have my people’s choice award also!

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“Bill,

BTW, as you already know, the best rule for not running out of gas is to FILL UP every time you go for a long ride.

It works wonderfully well and you rarely need to refer to your gas gauge (working or otherwise).”

PeterBTW, as you already know, the best rule for not running out of gas is to FILL UP every time you go for a long ride.

It works wonderfully well and you rarely need to refer to your gas gauge (working or otherwise)

Peter”

I had quite enough time to think about this while carrying 5 gallons of gas back to the car! Normally I fill a new car while still on the trailer bringing it home, oh well, next time.

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A watch / clock hand would likely work fine without any fabrication.

“So, contact your clock and watchmaker and he will fix you up.

Or, check out a local swap meet or lower-end antiques shop (junk shop, as my Dad called them) and you will probably find plenty of donor watches / clocks for about $5.00 each.”

Excellent idea!

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Thanks for the info on my fuel gauge. Will pull the guage with a rubber strap wrench as suggested. I have acquired several cars this year and are building a display building and have a few things on my plate.

I will continue to be active on this Forum, though saving the info to implement as I can get cleared.

Thank you for your kind help and advice.

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David W. Coco Tuesday, 12-Dec-2017 at 08:01 AM

Great story of the drive!

Wish we were closer, that would be a fun car to put a top on. I have a 1919 top that I’m working on now, in between other jobs.

That said, I’m trying to get out of the trimmer work, I do it as a hobby now that I’m retired, but I’m not getting any of my own work done!

David, I am planning to have a new top and side curtains made, wish you were closer!

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Gas filler, closed

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George, will check these settings.And use them. I only have been using the electric pump when starting. Will try from a cold start. The previous owner also used MMO. Good stuff!

My 1920 Cadillac is touchy on gasoline. I have added about a gallon kerosine to 20 gallons gas. The Caddilac runs fuel through an exhaust manifold to help raise the volatility of 1920 gas. It causes vapor lock with modern fuels. I blocked that off, but can be prone to vapor lock. Does the Pierce have the same procedure?

Greg, I just added 22 gallons over the five gallons on the first drive. I drove less than two miles. I added gas until it stopped when it hit the end of the filling nozzle. I left about 5 inches of airspace. The tank was pressurized when I opened to fill up.

Peter, my SN is 14727, thanks for my mistake. Will correct

You are all welcome to visit anytime. We are planning to attend the Mini-Meet.

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Greg, here is my dash,

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