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Greg, tires were new. BUT we run fast……..75 mph, heavy……..at the limit of the equipment. Most tires today are made in China…..Junk! Be sure to buy good, heavy, quaility tires. Goodyear makes a great 16 inch trailer tire that are 300 each, but well worth the safety and peace of mind. Too many bad stories with tires on trailers…….Interesting note…….if you order a new trailer, you can request two vin I’d tags, one at the correct weight, another at a lower one if you like. Helps out in some states. The interstate commerce The interstate commerce all says law means that if you legal in your own state, you’re fine in any other as long as you are on a federal highway . Get off the Federal highway in the states like California and you could have problems Issues.

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CDL not required. All are exempt under federal regulations if NOT USED FOR GAIN. No need to stop at weigh stations either. 15 inch tires in summer heat at speeds over 60 will fail. Even 16 inch at high speed in summer heat loaded close to max will fail. If you have a big and heavy car today trailering and tire issues are the norm. I went to the triple axel set up. It tows like it isn’t there, more stable and less young weight than standard. The wheels do scuff in parking lots, but it is much safer than two axles. Last year in the desert near the salt flats we suffered a blow out at 70 mph, a loud bang and we slowed down right away, before we came to a total stop, the other tire on the same side failed…….never again. If I were running a two axel trailer and a heavy load (v12 or other monster) I would run 17.5 wheels, same rolling diameter as the 16 wheels, but with twice the weight rating.

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Aluminum is great, but a unit that is 12,000 will be very expensive, and remember, if bent or damaged they must go to the factory for repairs. I get 20 years out of a new quaility trailer. I also buy the longest and tallest that I will ever need. The 34 foot tag unit is much more difficult to maneuver than the 24.

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For me 24 is the minimum. Be sure to get eight lug 16 inch wheels,, or you will have lots of tire problems. If you run fast or heavy, a triple axle or 17.5 wheels are a must. Here is my new 34 foot tag with a v nose. It is HUGE, but I wouldn’t trade it for anything. Lots of room for luggage , parts, a motorcycle or golf cart. It’s rated for 21,000 pounds, be sure your trailer is rated for 12,000 do not get a 10,000 pound trailer. Also, order it new with a heavy reinforced door, you won’t be sorry. Also 16 inch on center with a 3/4 inch floor. Ed.

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Remember there are three different Pierce UU2 carbs used in 1929. The first style should NEVER be used due to fire and safety concerns. They were changed out when new, but there are still a lot of them around. Ed

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Yes, that’s the car I was thinking it was. Give Greg a call, he looked at the car last year. Ed.

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I think you disconnect the throttle and light switch from the bottom of the steering box, remove the horn wire, and the light switch tower from the bottom of the box, then slide up the multiple shafts running through the entire unit until the center hub and throttle and light levers are up about two inches, and reach in and unbolt the clamps to remove the center of the wheel. You do all of this trying not to break the pot metal parts on both the upper and lower unit, trying not to pull any of the shafts up more than two inches or the bronze bushings will start popping out…….. In a perfect world you should pull the entire thing out of the car and do it on the bench where you can see everything clearly. If this doesn’t make sense give me a call after 9am tomorrow at 413 530 5712. Es.

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Member Greg Long knows the car well if it is the one I am thinking about. Give him a call. Ed.

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John has them…….hardest Pierce Arrow part to find of any year. You MUST use a Pierce carb, not a Nash or Stude or you will run lean and burn valves and Pistons. Pierce carbs used bigger venturies, jets, ect. He may need your old carb for a core. Ed

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Just because it passes the leak test on the bench doesn’t mean it is good. In my 36 V12 I had to replace three lifters in less than 200 miles after the rebuild. It’s possible the balls have pits and only rotate over a length of time.

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Yes, I have seen a Pierce with factory metallic paint. It was a factory show car. The paint color was unstable but the metallic was very very fine. Several other unusual colors have been documented as factory, but they were not common. Francis Owens described a very subtle metallic paint in a unusual but conservative color to me on a custom bodied 35 Pierce sedan.

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Replace it, you won’t be able to repair it, so I am told. The ball and seat are ground to match, rust pits cause it to bleed down. Thus there is no repair.

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Most PA’s dont look that good in HEAVY metallic paint, most seem out of place when parked on the show field. Suttle metallic comes off very nice….. but I have yet to paint any of my cars with it…….Ed

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28 was the first year for metallic paint, from DuPont if I remember correctly.

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Years ago I had a list and a bunch of photos of the 1932 cars delivered to the White House . There were five or six if I remember correctly . Does anybody have the list in Photos still ?

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Very neat item Dave. Thanks for posting.

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Please remember not only are there fake dealership items , There are quite a few fake Pierce Arrow cars out there also. While at Hershey this year I believe it came across another fake open car converted from a sedan. Time will tell. one can never believe a carwas a V 12 from the factory, as many cars have been converted. Be careful!

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I agree the LA lube plate is real………Ed

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Inside…….

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Here is a 1936 factory dealer upholstery catalog for the V-12 cats. Enjoy!

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