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Headlights, horns, parking lights, and some hardware is 30 & 31 Cadillac. Tail lights are also. Wheel photos are not very clear but also look like 31 Cadillac. Post mpre photos, we will ID the car for you.
Whatever the final story, it sure had lots of work put into it, looks like it is well done. Sure is one of a kind!
Not too sure how much of the car is a Pierce. Chassis looks like a Stutz pre 31 from the wheels. (Maybe Auburn?) It has Cadillac tail lights from 30-31 from the looks of them. The big question is who built it, when, and is that a new body or one made from another marque. Why build a 164 inch speedster? Was it built for the movies? More photos would help. I would post a photo of it on the AACA web site. I bet you get an answer quickly.
They are made to the spring. They are very difficult to make and can get very expensive. Pierce used graphite and grease with canvas on the springs, then put the covers on. After all that, then you need to paint them. I would ask to see another set that the people did before you agree to have them made. Good luck. Ed
Lots of shops have made them, they come in 3 diffrent lengths. Not too hard to make but they take time and thus can cost a fair anount of money. Rubber is not cheap either. It’s best to fit the boards to the car as often fenders have been modified and thus a stock board more often than not won’t fit.
My 37 had a jack with handle, and a box in the trunk factory installed to hold what I assume was a lug wrench, and what I thought was a tool kit. Box was about the right size for some tools. Ask Bob Sands, he will know.
Peter, maybe they don’t have the recipe to make boiled water.
Last one.
Another photo.
John just posted a tail light for sale on the emporium. Take a look. Ed
I agree with Greg. I bought one for my 14 Caddy from a off brand, installed a new Crest. Presto, Cadillac motomeeter for cheap.
If you get a 12 starter you have to clock it. Welding the cone can cause issues. We had a hard turning over car, worked on it for 2 weeks and still issues. Turned out the cone was welded crooked and the starter was binding under load only, bench tested fine.
It had the 38 steering wheel, e brake, rear plate light on the trunk, and l r fender without the lens.
Another shot.
I must be looking in the wrong spots at Hershey & Chickasha, to even find Pierce stuff now is so hard it’s almost not worth all the walking. I do make an few finds, but it seems now most of the stuff is drying up. When you do the math for driving to Hershey, a weeks worth of hotels, gas, food, ect. even a part you can score for 20 bucks costs you another 150 for the day in expenses. Granted the thrill of the chase and find is priceless for a collector. I have never needed to buy a tail light or glass for a project, but so many people are installing a light on the right hand side of the car the parts are getting very difficult to find. I think John gets more requests for tail light than any other item except manifolds and carbs. I have never seen the S red lens at a non Pierce space, did any other car use them?
The lenses are not common but can be found. The S lens sells for a lot more than the others. I think 125 or 150 would buy one. The usual problem is they are often sold as a set or you have to buy a entire light. The repro lenses in the rear are hard to tell as long as the color has not changed.
I have never worked on a Pierce worm rear. I have played with the Stutz worm rear, very similar. Not too much to them. The Stutz rears seem to show quite a bit of wear, not sure why. The Stutz guys made new ratios in England for big money, and they failed under load from what I have seen and been told. I remember seeing the bearings in them, they were quite large and impressive. So was their price. I see no issue using the worm rear as long as your happy with the ratio. If you want to gear your car then the hypoid is the best set up.
Bill, the puller you made is very slick. I have an old one bought years ago at Hershey. I left it on one rear end tightened to “the max”” and about a week later we were in the shop and heard a very loud bang and crash. It let go and jumped about 4 feet into a pile of other spare parts. I never stand in front of the drum with a puller on it. I have never seen one rusty so it’s just the taper keeping it on.”
Bill, if the worm bearings are bad I think you will find they are very expensive. It may be a better option to get a good used rear end. Many of the cars were converted over years ago to the hypoid type. From observation I think I have seen less than 10 cars still running the worm in all the years looking at the cars. Either way it probably will be less expensive to find a good used rear of either type. Last I remember all the bearings in a hypoid rear still run around 500.oo dollars plus machining for modern seals. Post a photo of the worm if you have one as most members have never seen one. My best. Ed.
Sorry Paul, I was sure I had seen one on the shelf. My best.
