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Steven…….you can use the flywheel mark to static set the points, but it is difficult. Add to the fact that the flywheel isn’t indexed and can be installed incorrectly, and then all bets are off. We have made pointers on some of our engines when we rebuilt them, so a timing light can be used. A bunch of other obscure issues can pop up if the engine has been significantly messed with. Your best bet is set up the distributor on a Sun tester, install, and set timing. When we set up cars, we jet the carb, recurve the distributor, and make several other changes……,it results in better starting, idle, and performance across the board.
They pushed the dates earlier twice……..so that’s why the wording is the way it is. First you could go back to 1921, than they went to 1915. The correct wording they should use is: Pierce-Arrow 1915-1938 All.
I like all pre war cars, and have owned lots of them. Currently I have a 1915 Ford T, and I enjoy it and the T club very much. When you own a T there are basically only three tiers of cars 1916 and later, 1915 to 1909, and the rate two pedal cars. No one worries about damage, breaking down, ect. They are just pure fun.
Richard, once the CCCA acceptance for any year was given approval, all Pierce Arrow cars were instantly approved. No Pierce Arrow car ever needed approval on a series basis. There were very few cars that were automatically accepted this way. Rolls Royce was one. Cars like Simplex, Crane, Packard, ect were all required to be vetted by the classification committee. There were too many car companies that didn’t hold to the standard every year. An example would be Peerless, Gardner, Moon, and many others. If you ask me, I was ok with them going earlier than 1925 on a selective basis. I think the leap from before and after WW1 would have been a logical cut off for Pierce. Since the mentality was for the club to be more “inclusive†they went back to 1915. I didn’t understand why an exclusive car club felt a need to become inclusive, which diluted the list of approved cars that really didn’t belong there. That’s when the PAS became the only club I was active in for many, many years.
Pierce Arrow has ALWAYS been 100 percent acceptance with the CCCA. Having served on the board and been involved with them since 1982, and the youngest life member ever, I am quite certain of my comments. As the years were enlarged, the Pierce Arrow Motor Car never had any cars excluded. They were the best club in the hobby for a long time, then the PAS passed them many years ago……..that’s why I am here now…………great people, friendly, and accommodating to young people…..although I am no longer young!
Be sure the acorn nuts don’t bottom out, or you will blow head gaskets.
As we say on the field at Pebble Beach, old cars aren’t cheap………just the owners!
Your going to have to make them out of stainless, and then buff them or chrome them. I have never found any over the years.
Roger, you need to round the modern fitting on the oil pressure relief valve, back in the day, they were not square. Also check for marks and casting draft pulls on the elbow on the bottom. Small detail, but since they need to be chromed, may as well get it right first time around. Not trying to nit pick, but modern fittings stick out like a sore thumb.
Jak, that’s insane. While it works great, and particularly well in cooling systems, citric acid used in wine making would work fine on parts that will never be seen like the window regulators.
It’s rather easy to machine the rear transmission yolk for a modern seal. You can polish the seal lip surface in a lathe. It’s possible for oil to leak past the spline, so cleaning and sealing that is also advised.
When I was born they threw away the mold…….but it grew back!
Good seeing all of our PAS family and friends on the field at Pebble. Weather was great, as were the cars. There was on PAS member with a car on thr tour and show field, a 1933 LeBaron 1247 Convertible Sedan owned by Steven Brauer. The entire event was fun as usual.
It’s a pain in the Pierce Arrow…….they come out. You can do it on the ground or on a lift. Be sure to use jack stands on thr frame in front of the rear end so you don’t get into trouble with the stands in the way of the tank. Remove the fender splash shield, exhaust if necessary, fuel lines and wires. It dirty, heavy, and difficult. If you put too much stress in the flex pipe it will break. Often it breaks even if your careful. You will be dirty, have crud in your eyes, smell like gas and grease, and if your not bleeding you will be lucky. Piece of cake!ðŸ‘
Is the most famous quote was ……..
“ Where you would send a friend.â€
I get 10% of all money spent on Evapo Rust used by PAS members. You can pay me in Crown Royal drinks at the Pennsylvania Meet next year…….ðŸ‘
Run a ground strap from the frame to the transmission also.
Do not paint the water passages. When the repair is done, and the car is assembled and ready to run, there are a few more thing you can do. I would fill the entire cooling system with evapo-rust. Use it straight without any water, and run it as you coolant for a few months a as long as there is no danger of freezing. It’s the best stuff to remove and break down the rust and rust particles. Go to the AACA website and do a search on it. You can get all the info on it there. Good luck, Ed
Perrier Is what I would recommend…………non pressure, as they say in France.
Peter……..is there any other standard?
I would expect to see a nickel finished slot screw, with washers and a square nut. All in a brushed nickel surface. That’s what is on most Pebble beach cars on the field from 1928. 29 and on, it’s usually bolts.
