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Viewing 20 posts - 141 through 160 (of 236 total)
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  • in reply to: Clock stem #399718

    Bill,

    The clock shop showed me how to get the short stem I bought apart, and I think I can cut it in half and add a section in the middle. I’m not going to try and thread that fine.

    When I bought the stem on Ebay the lot had 2 other old car clocks but I have no idea what they are for and neither did the seller. 1 round and 1 hexagonal. Jim

    in reply to: Clock stem #399715

    Bill,

    It’s a Waltham 8 day and it is rectangular. I’ll have to figure out how to get a picture from email to post. The clock shop has it now.

    The ebay clock has a stem mounted solid and the vendors don’t sell parts. Jim

    in reply to: Wheel Locks #399714

    Dave,

    There is a 5/16 fine bolt that comes in from the tire side and has a parallelogram head so it doesn’t turn as you tighten the nut. I thinned the heads on stainless bolts and cut a taper under the head. If you hold it with a screwdriver between the ring and tire it doesn’t spin. Jim

    in reply to: Clock stem #399703

    Bill & Paul,

    I left a question with the ebay seller, the picture is poor but looks like the stem is soldered in. I’ll check with the venders in the morning. Thanks Jim

    in reply to: Clock stem #399683

    I don’t have a stem for the clock at all and it measures at 3.375″ to put it just to the bottom of the dash.

    If I can find a stem I’m going to make a support for it to protect the clock.”

    in reply to: Wheel Locks #399668

    I think they are cast steel. When smoothing them they didn’t have a dull spark like cast iron. Jim

    in reply to: “bendy wood” #412695

    I’ve used a bendable plywood before, I don’t know if it was called “bendy wood” or not, about 1/8″ thick 3 ply. I made a convertable top bow for a L-29 Cord Cabrolet and worked on a Tourist body that was formed from it. No need to moisten it and it came in large sheets. Jim

    in reply to: Fuel line routing #399488

    Maybe a fuel filter from a 74-75 Mopar with the restricted return fitting in the side if it would be an answer. Jim

    in reply to: Fuel line routing #399479

    Greg,

    Outside the Rt. frame rail sounds like the best answer. I guess I need to hold the fender on the frame to see if there is room between the body and the part of the fender that lays over the frame. I don’t want to run the line under the frame rail to the pump, unless I drill a hole in the frame to pass the line through and I didn’t want to do that. Jim

    in reply to: Fuel line routing #399460

    Greg,

    I was going to use the woven loom to help insulate the line but was thinking also of putting a heat shield between the exhaust and line. Running it up the Left side sounds like a lot of extra bends but I need to look at it again, on that side tomorrow. I get kinda tunnel vision sometimes. Jim

    in reply to: Wheel Brake Drum aligning #399429

    Hi Jak,

    I guess I’ll line up the holes with the grooves since that seems like what they should be. I was just wondering if it was another over engineered issue that they had decided they didn’t need to bother with. Jim

    in reply to: Wheel Brake Drum aligning #399424

    This is the back of the wheel.

    in reply to: Tubes #399381

    Greg,

    Thanks for the suggestions, I tried to email you but they have been coming back undeliverable. I slotted to flap a little, used lots of talc, a stem bushing and bent the stem. So far so good. Jim

    in reply to: Tubes #412665

    Greg,

    The original stems were 5/8″ Coker sent 1/2″. I only have assembled 1 tire/tube/flap combo, when I saw it wasn’t working, and decided to get some input here and see what Coker had to say. They are still working on it and say tomorrow they will know(?).

    I gave thought to the twisting of the tube and inflating but wondered if while driving the tube would want to creep back into it’s own position. If twisting is the answer then I do think the flap hole will need to be slotted a little and the 1/2″ stems might be best. I just don’t know.

    I don’t have the lock rings back from the plater yet so I can’t inflate too much and I want to know things line up before I put the rings on, I don’t want to take the rings off along with the paint.

    Coker said that the offset valve stems were about 5 deg offset but he wasn’t sure. He did confirm Ed’s comment that metal stems don’t seem to hold up as well as the rubber and he didn’t think the metal tube in the rubber stems went to the bottom, just far enough for the threads and seat.

    The good thing is I’m retired and have time to deal with this, the bad thing is I’m retired and don’t have the resources to deal with this. Jim

    in reply to: Tubes #399331

    Thanks everybody, I’ll see what happens.

    in reply to: Tubes #399326

    Greg,

    If I try rotating the tube, I will have to slot the hole in the flap wont I? Will the air pressure after installed push the flat base of the flap back against the rim requiring a slot?

    I’ll be talking To Coker tomorrow and see if they want a picture.

    in reply to: Tubes #412658

    Style of wooden spoke wheel 18″.

    On the old tire/tube/flap assemblies when dismounted the valve stem is in the middle of the 2 beads of the tire, not off to 1 side. All 7 of the tires are that way, not saying all 7 couldn’t be wrong because the car has sat for 60 years and with the make it work that was done during the war they all could be wrong. And nothing is as permanent as a temporary repair that works.

    in reply to: Tubes #399324

    Rim, wheel side.

    in reply to: Tubes #399323

    Greg,

    I was wondering if the stem could be massaged so it leaned to the outside.

    This is a picture of the rim, tire side.

    in reply to: Tubes #399318

    These tubes I got from Coker are American made, but I still need to know if the tube is supposed to have the valve stem offset?

Viewing 20 posts - 141 through 160 (of 236 total)