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Viewing 20 posts - 41 through 60 (of 236 total)
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  • in reply to: door check straps #408266

    Jim,

    After the sticker shock with Steeles price I started looking around and at Tractor Supply they have bailer belting and I tried that after cutting it down to fit and using 2 layers glued together. The driver door strap kept folding in the middle and I couldn’t find any reason, only that one did that. I made another one and cut the ends like finger joints so there was only 1 layer at the ends, then I put 2 narrow strips of thin stainless from some old wiper blades between the layers glued them together and so far it works great. Cheap and works. Jim L

    in reply to: 1930 Mod B Club Sedan #408155

    David,

    I think they were originally cast steel but my furnace won’t quite get hot enough to cast brass and bronze is close in melting point. Aluminum can be chromed but it’s more involved. I would like to find somebody with 2 but they sound pretty rare.

    Bob,

    I checked with Karl and he said that he sold out of them very quickly and hadn’t had any more made. Steele lists for a 31 but I don’t know if it’s the same as a 30, that’s why I asked. Jim L

    in reply to: Top material seams #408035

    David,

    I saw the top of my car today and he did it without the cross seam. It looks great, I was there when he did a corner and it takes a lot of muscle, steam and skill to do it. I’ll post a picture when I get it back. JimL

    in reply to: Mystery pieces #407964

    Craig,

    That’s exactly where they go. Do you happen to know if this was a dealer/factory fix for something since they are not painted? JimL

    in reply to: Mystery pieces #407936

    Craig,

    The car is having the top put on so I’ll take the pieces to the top shop and check. The witness mark from weatherstrip confused me (easy to do), maybe it was to stop a rattle.

    Thanks JimL

    in reply to: Starting a 1920s Pierce Arrow car. #407921

    Richard,

    If it’s the 1st start, your machine shop may loan you their oil primer to fill the engine and prime it all at the same time. It would be to their benefit on the job. JimL

    in reply to: Mystery pieces #407920

    Craig & Peter,

    That doesn’t sound right but I tried it in the other order and it was worse.

    Thanks, I talked to Dave Schafer and he thinks that they go to the rear body/fender/gas tank cover joint, so I’ll check there and post the result. I thought I took pictures of everything but apparently not. JimL

    in reply to: Top material seams #407858

    Miles,

    I’m not doubting you, do you know what years P-A used leather for the top? Didn’t it look like an old boot after several years? JimL

    in reply to: Top material seams #407842

    Miles,

    I don’t think leather would hold up long in the rain and sun. JimL

    in reply to: Top material seams #407838

    arnold,

    Thanks for the pictures, I think that’s what he needs to know. Jim L

    in reply to: Sedan top nail strip moldings #407565

    Jim,

    I got some from Restoration Supply in CA and it’s not a full half round it’s about half that but the profile is very close. The OE (I think) I took off was brass and the nails were soldered in place. The material from RS in aluminum, I haven’t gotten that far yet to install it. Jim L

    in reply to: PHISHING #407382

    Since the webmaster got hacked where do we change our passwords? Password look up didn’t help. Jim

    in reply to: PHISHING #407357

    Me too twice also.. Jim

    in reply to: Cut out relay #407170

    Problem solved thanks to Greg, Dave and Jak.

    The generator did spin when I put power to it but I checked the brushes again like Greg suggested. One brush was worn so it just didn’t touch the armature but when I ran emery cloth under it to clean the brush surface the spring pushed the brush down and cleaned the surface so the clearance was less than the thickness of the cloth. I replaced the brush and all is well now. At least as the charging is concerned.

    Parts Plus has cut out relays that fit but they sit 90 deg to the original. Jim

    in reply to: Interior Wood Trim Refinishing #407125

    Dave,

    At least on mine the gauge bezels have straight sides that go through the openings and there are just a few places on each bezel that are bent over some to hold them in. Jim

    in reply to: Cut out relay #407120

    This thing getting more confusing. The wiring diagram shows a wire to the CO relay from the generator and I’m assuming that’s from the third brush and that’s a small gauge wire maybe 14ga the other terminal at the CO relay goes to the term at the amp gauge with a 10ga wire. Why the heavier wire to the gauge if the smaller wire can only carry so much current.

    I’m thinking there is a wire not shown in the diagram. Jim

    in reply to: Cut out relay #407103

    I was concerned about the current going to ground through the brushes when not turning.

    Doing some searching the info said to never run a generator without it being connected electrically and when it was first started in a bare chassis it wasn’t connected but I didn’t smell anything like burning wiring or see that I let the smoke out. How long can they run disconnected? It wasn’t over a half hour but it

    it doesn’t put out at all. Female?

    The info said there is a thermostat inside, can that be tested with just an ohm meter? Jim

    in reply to: rust inhibitor #407102

    Peter,

    It was 1-5 gal. pail for $80 and 2-5 gal pails for just over $200. I guess volume doesn’t change their logic. Jim

    in reply to: rust inhibitor #407082

    Is there only one Evaporust? Amazon has a 5 gallon pail for $80.00 Jim

    in reply to: adjustable fuel pressure regulator #406927

    Is that vacuum tank one of those ingeniously simple complex devices that are trouble free once you get all the problems fixed? Jim

Viewing 20 posts - 41 through 60 (of 236 total)