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Gents,

I believe that Bob Sands is correct regarding the Postcard Pierce, versus the Quam Pierce.

The Postcard Pierce mentions 5-seats and the Quam Pierce is definitely not with the 5-seats.

Stu’s link, or at least the YouTube video associated with it, shows Grant Quam driving his Pierce and a quick look at the back seating shows no seating at all.

Peter

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Ed,

The car also does not show up in the 2018 PRINT Roster when I did a search by both chassis and engine number.

There is a one-digit gap (2215224 — 2215226 & 314374 —- 314376) where it would be listed.

Peter

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Ed,

Bernie’s list indicates that it is a 1601 and may be last owned by a Grant Quam of Ames, Iowa, chassis #2215225, engine #314375.

There is no such person in the 2018 PAS Roster, however an internet search provides the info shown on this website with the Pierce-Arrow up front!.

Peter

http://www.desmoinesregister.com/picture-gallery/news/local/2015/09/21/95-photos-rare-cars-the-grant-j-quam-collection/72594972/

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Tony,

Thank You!

Peter

Bob,

Dilly, Dilly back at you!

Peter

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George,

I believe that the number of angels that can dance on the head of an oil pump stud depends upon whether they are dancing a Waltz, a Fox Trot or the Charleston.

Regardless, the number is somewhere infinitely north of Avogadro’s number, which is of course, 6.022140857 × 10 to the 23rd.

Peter

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Jim,

Also, if you have a spare oil pan, you can always do the stud removal program on the spare and then swap pans.

Peter

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Jim,

With all due respect to Greg’s significant mechanical prowess, I offer these comments.

Liberal amounts of PB Blaster (two or three times, a few days in advance), a touch of heat to the tips of the studs and a GOOD Stud Pulling Socket, should do the trick to remove the studs without a break.

You will likely not do this again in your lifetime, so wear on the threaded part of the aluminum crankcase caused by hex-head screws / bolts is not really an issue.

Also, if you use your brain, after removing the studs, you will measure the depth of the blind holes in the crankcase and determine the thickness of the base of the oil pump.

If you then buy hex-head machine screws / bolts that are slightly shorter than your full depth, including pump base thickness and lock washers, you will not reach the blind end of the bolt hole and will not crack the crankcase from inserting and torquing too long of a bolt.

Finally, if you do this prep work, the oil pump will just go in like a charm.

Proper Project Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance (the Seven Ps for Success).

Cheers,

Peter

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Karl,

Make sure that you use the hotels about which I sent you the info.

A Room Rate of $7.00 per night is hard to beat!

Perhaps, you should post a photo of the brochure for the hotel.

Peter

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Karl,

In case it was not clear from my posting above, Arthur J. Chanter was the Vice President / General Manager of the PAMCC and he was the Toastmaster for the PAMCC event held at The Plaza Hotel in Manhattan on 5 January, 1929.

A Pierce-Arrow Class luncheon in a Pierce-Arrow Class hotel in Manhattan.

Peter

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Jim,

Years ago, I did as George suggested above.

It makes a HUGE difference in properly placing the oil pump on my Series 80.

I have great oil pressure and do not leak a drop of engine oil.

I don’t recall exactly, but I believe that I made my own gasket from a standard gasket material package that I bought at NAPA.

Peter

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Studebaker acquired Pierce in 1928 through a stock transfer. Pierce remained ostensibly independent with its own general manager, Arthur J. Chanter, though Erskine named himself president. More importantly, Buffalo and not South Bend would retain responsibility for developing new Pierce-Arrows.

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Charles,

To make a photo smaller, I open it with PREVIEW (maybe just a MAC program?) and then go to the dropdown that offers “RESIZE.””

I then change one of the numbers to be at approximately 40% of the original and the program automatically proportionately sizes it.

It is not a big deal.

Peter

“

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Charles,

I understand that your truck has the same engine in it as Series 80 cars.

That is useful to know when it comes to hunting for parts.

Oh, does it have a cast-iron or an aluminum cylinder head?

If cast-iron, then Series 80, if aluminum, then Series 81.

Peter

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Charles,

Is this what you want?

Is it for a Series 81?

Search on eBay under: Pierce Arrow Emblem.

Peter

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pierce-Arrow-Radiator-Grille-medallion-GOLD-1928-emblem/111339387624?hash=item19ec583ae8:g:wfUAAOSwIWZZfNRA:rk:14:pf:0

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Patrick,

The neck is supposed to be nickel.

You can remove it by heating the neck with a torch to melt the solder and then pull it.

Get it plated and reverse the process.

Others will chime in on the proper way to do it.

Peter

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Tony,

Excellent comment about the competence of a Plater.

Peter

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Syd,

To add to Greg’s comments, chrome is also more durable than is nickel, as every time you polish your beautiful nickel, you remove some of it.

Not so with chrome.

However, Syd, this current line of commentary has no relation to your original question.

Yes, you need a good, multiple layer, well polished copper base.

Peter

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Personally, I like the upper right photo on the cover the most, but that is a personal bias for P-A cars with left & right-side taillights with “WET”” vs. “”DRY”” plates.

The calendars are GREAT.

i bought a few.

Thank you Dave & Diana.

“

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Syd,

My plating guy told me long ago that to chrome plate something, first in needed to be plated in copper, then in nickel and then in chrome because chrome does not adhere to copper, but does to nickel.

My Series 80 is a nickel car and was previously plated in chrome.

i returned it to the nickel car that it was when it first left the PAMCC.

Peter

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Gents,

The Seller from whom I purchased the 21W LED bulbs, one of which was in the Driver’s side headlight in the photo, tells me that his group is currently testing a High Brightness BA15S LED (15mm bayonet mount) bulb.

He further stated that I should check with him in 6-weeks to determine if it is in production.

So Dr. David and Mr. Bob, you are incorrect about the placement of the LED bulb, but the passenger side headlight has a 32W / 35W (?) incandescent bulb, while the Driver side HAD the 21W LED.

They seemed equally bright, so a higher wattage LED might be wonderful.

I like Richard’s idea of 55W incandescent (?) bulbs, if they are reasonably priced.

Also, I rewired my Series 80, so I have no fear about melting the wire.

I have melted wire on one or two moderns and had to upgrade the headlight wiring when I installed 85W / 100W low / high beams and 100w high beams.

I can easily blind oncoming cars if they don’t shutdown their highs, and I can Definitely Illuminate country roads at night.

Peter

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