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Patrick,

The neck is supposed to be nickel.

You can remove it by heating the neck with a torch to melt the solder and then pull it.

Get it plated and reverse the process.

Others will chime in on the proper way to do it.

Peter

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Tony,

Excellent comment about the competence of a Plater.

Peter

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Syd,

To add to Greg’s comments, chrome is also more durable than is nickel, as every time you polish your beautiful nickel, you remove some of it.

Not so with chrome.

However, Syd, this current line of commentary has no relation to your original question.

Yes, you need a good, multiple layer, well polished copper base.

Peter

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Personally, I like the upper right photo on the cover the most, but that is a personal bias for P-A cars with left & right-side taillights with “WET”” vs. “”DRY”” plates.

The calendars are GREAT.

i bought a few.

Thank you Dave & Diana.

“

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Syd,

My plating guy told me long ago that to chrome plate something, first in needed to be plated in copper, then in nickel and then in chrome because chrome does not adhere to copper, but does to nickel.

My Series 80 is a nickel car and was previously plated in chrome.

i returned it to the nickel car that it was when it first left the PAMCC.

Peter

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Gents,

The Seller from whom I purchased the 21W LED bulbs, one of which was in the Driver’s side headlight in the photo, tells me that his group is currently testing a High Brightness BA15S LED (15mm bayonet mount) bulb.

He further stated that I should check with him in 6-weeks to determine if it is in production.

So Dr. David and Mr. Bob, you are incorrect about the placement of the LED bulb, but the passenger side headlight has a 32W / 35W (?) incandescent bulb, while the Driver side HAD the 21W LED.

They seemed equally bright, so a higher wattage LED might be wonderful.

I like Richard’s idea of 55W incandescent (?) bulbs, if they are reasonably priced.

Also, I rewired my Series 80, so I have no fear about melting the wire.

I have melted wire on one or two moderns and had to upgrade the headlight wiring when I installed 85W / 100W low / high beams and 100w high beams.

I can easily blind oncoming cars if they don’t shutdown their highs, and I can Definitely Illuminate country roads at night.

Peter

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Which is the LED?

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Bob,

6-V LED bulbs are not brighter than their equivalent wattage incandescent counterparts.

I bought a pair of 21-W LED bulbs, installed them and was underwhelmed at their relative brightness.

They produced the same light output as the incandescent 21-W bulbs.

Their supposed main advantage is that they draw less current, but that is not an issue if the electrical system on you Pierce-Arrow works correctly.

I installed a 6V to 12V converter to a female cigarette lighter connector back in the days of needing a GPS for touring (before iPhones / Google MAPS / WAZE).

You may be able to connect it to your 12V headlight electrical wire run into the fusebox and out to the headlights.

I am not sophisticated in 6V to 12V conversion, so I could be incorrect about the fusebox concept.

Maybe you need to have in-line fuses connected after the fusebox, but I DK.

Also, as I recall, the 6V to 12V converter has TWO leads, while my Series 80 has but ONE lead to each electrical connection because it is a Positive Ground / Earth automobile.

I believe that Positive Ground electrics are true for ALL Pierce-Arrow motorcars.

Have fun and I look forward to your report on the matter.

Peter

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Ed,

Copy the total URL, paste it into the space below and then remove the following: http://

If it starts with www the website will put in the http:// – as I did for this reply.

Peter

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1930-Pierce-Arrow-A/292822568090?hash=item442d95cc9a:g:h0AAAOSwdUJb8YUt:rk:1:pf:0&vxp=mtr

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Gents,

That Pierce even has RUNNING BOARD LIGHTS, per another Message Thread!

Peter

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Tony,

I didn’t include the $20 core charge in my calculations, so to my number you can add another $20.00 because there is no core charge from Optima Jim.

You are a Good Man Tony, no apologies required.

You are merely thinking of other PAS members in immediate need of a starting battery.

Cheers,

Peter

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Tony,

With the 20% discount, the battery is in the range of $190.00.

If one can wait until Spring 2019, the PAS price through Optima Jim will likely be at least $50.00 less, including delivery.

Peter

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The link!

http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/d/1930-pierce-arrow-model-sedan/6719403580.html

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Gents,

You may be interested in checking out this eBay piece.

Someone better buy it soon!

Peter

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1914-1922-PIERCE-ARROW-Radiator-Mascot-Hood-Ornament-Rare/113297021019?hash=item1a6107585b:g:HdMAAOSwNNVbAIhm:rk:33:pf:0

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Karl,

So you are saying that there is an air space / gap between the script PIERCE and where it is connected to the arrow / wheel.

It was either cast in pieces and assembled or cast in one piece by a very sophisticated foundry / casting craftsman.

I could see that gap when I opened the photo and enlarged it.

Very interesting.

Peter

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Paul,

The W. C. W. books do not state that either of the two mascots shown directly above were produced by the PAMCC.

There is no maker listed.

I understand that Harrolds produced P-A mascots, and further, I expect that they did so under license from the PAMCC.

I put the photos on this message thread to illustrate different “wheel-type” mascots, including their stated dates of production.

It is general information.

Cheers,

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Gents,

Here is a photo of the 1905 Pierce mascot (William C. Williams, Volume #1.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Gents,

The William C. Williams Mascot Book, Volume-II, indicates that the “The factory standard mascot was the Wheel & Arrow similar to the 1916 design.””

Peter”

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Ken,

Nice cap, where did you find it or did it come with the mascot?

Is is stainless?

Peter

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Richard,

After doing that work on you 1904 Stanhope, you would call what was done a “Sympathetic Refurbishment.””

Peter”

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