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Syd,

To add to Tom Barrett’s comment there is also a NAPA KOOL cooling system treatment that I have used for over 8-years.

It is quite similar to Pen Cool 3000.

I am happy with the product and I have not seen any rusty liquid or solids when I do my annual system drain.

Peter

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1908 Thomas Flyer!

Also make in Buffalo!

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Jim,

I saw it on Amazon with PRIME @ $22.95 per gallon, but a TWO-PACK is $99.00 (HUH?)!

Figure that one out!

Peter

http://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-ER012-Original-Super-Remover/dp/B00M0TLQ66/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1528989423&sr=8-1&keywords=Evaporust+ER012

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Link

http://www.hemmings.com/blog/2007/08/07/fatty-arbuckles-pierce-arrow-does-it-really-have-a-toilet/

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

It is a shame that Memorial Day OBSERVED is on 27 May in 2019, and NOT on the REAL Memorial Day, which is 30 May.

Monday Holidays are bogus!

Thank goodness they have not as yet changed Independence Day, Christmas Day or New Year’s Day!

EESCH!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Curtiss,

All of those things are possible.

GO FOR IT!

Peter

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Tony,

Was that carburetor called a Ball & Ball because it is an ODD-BALL with TWO stage operation?

If it was a REAL ODD BALL, shouldn’t it be either a; BALL, or a BALL, BALL & BALL?

Don’t you think, eh Tony?

Peter

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Gents,

Note, I speak from the position of being a Buffalo native 40-years removed.

First, I would be surprised if the City of Buffalo EVER allowed someone tear down their BELOVED Pierce-Arrow Building. Pierce-Arrow is central to the heart & soul of Buffalo, as evidenced by the significant local turnout when a PAS Meet comes to town.

Second, if anything did happen to the building, after the City decided what to do, then Jimmy & Mary Ann Sandoro should be next in line to retrieve anything of interest that the PAMCC building would yield. They have spent at least half of their lives Boosting Buffalo via the Buffalo Museum of Transportation (www.Pierce-Arrow.com) and in other ways. (BOOST BUFFALO, IT’S GOOD FOR YOU – a 1970s ad campaign slogan)

After Jim and Mary Ann, would be several thousand Buffalo scavengers wanting a piece of their BELOVED Pierce-Arrow MCC.

The PAS and its interests would be well back in the line.

As to the condition of the plaque, oh well, it lives in Buffalo and that means it has already suffered 100-years of acid-rain and Buffalo winters.

We have Pierce-Arrow cars and need to be content with our individual pieces of Buffalo history.

Also, FYI, note the following older News article.

Peter

http://www.bizjournals.com/buffalo/news/2016/09/13/pierce-arrow-owners-making-a-30-million-bet-on.html

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George,

With the amount that you drive your cars, every 3,000-mile brake adjustments must occur every month or so.

Cheers,

Peter

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Tony,

BTW, did someone look to see if the fuel bowl shutoff is adjusted properly?

I am talking about the screw in the center on the top of the fuel bowl cap that adjusts the float location / height / range.

On my Stromberg O-3 carb, there is a nut on the front of the fuel bowl that when removed will leak / spew fuel if the float is not properly adjusted (allows in too much fuel).

I “screwed” with that problem / adjustment a bunch until I got it correct.

Now, I never touch the adjustment on the Top Center of the float bowl cap.

In addition, did anyone check to see if you have a float that will not float because it is filled with fuel and sinks to the bottom of the fuel bowl?

Cracked brass fuel bowl / carburetor floats are quite common.

If a cracked / leaky float is the problem, advise and we can discuss how to best get the fuel out of the bowl BEFORE you attempt to solder the leak.

Peter

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Gents,

David’s comment is excellent & important.

When I acquired my Series 80, the brakes were TERRIBLE.

I studied the diagrams and decided that the Brake Rods were too long.

One knowledgeable friend admonished me TO NOT SHORTEN THE BRAKE RODS.

I fussed over that problem for a year and no matter what I did, the braking was TERRIBLE!

Then I consulted another Series 80 Boy who was doing his brakes and asked him to measure his brake rods end to end, including the clevis yoke.

It turned out that my brake rods were THREE-INCHES TOO LONG!

When I adjusted the length (read, cut the rods and rethreaded them), the car stopped like a champ.

Obviously, somewhere in the then 80-years of family ownership, someone put on the car brake rods from a 145 / 147-inch WB Pierce-Arrow rather than those from the 130-inch WB Series 80.

Bill, start from the Owner’s Manual and move forward.

Your 48 has been around for 102-years and obviously the brakes have worked well enough for the car to have lasted for 102-years.

Good luck.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jim,

Vacuum tanks can and do run flawlessly once sorted out.

There a a ton of Stuart-Warner vacuum tanks offered for sale on eBay.

Even if the tank itself is not correct for one’s car, some of the internal parts, float, etc., are interchangeable.

One major issue is getting a good seal on the top with the cork gasket (permeated helps).

Then there is a possible problem with rusty float springs, but once replaced (SS springs) you are good for another 90-years.

Peter

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Gents,

As requested, I now know that 55-Orders were placed using the CODE during the DEAL.

These are ORDERS and not Batteries, so all I can tell you is that the number of OPTIMA 6V Red Top batteries ordered by PAS Members during the DEAL ranged from 55 to 165.

I speculate that there were about 100 batteries purchased, because many on THIS TOPIC who comments about delivery uses the word BATTERIES and not Battery.

Some were clear about ordering TWO or THREE and others ONE,

I look forward to contacting Optima Jim in 2019 to again run the DEAL.

Until then, Keep Charged!

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

That is a nice Series 80 Coach if one could snag it for a reasonable price.

Maybe Greg will go for it.

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Tony,

As always, you are a HOOT!

Peter

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Jack,

BTW, the cotter pin locks the nut in place and there is not a huge amount of torque / stress on the nut, per-se.

Use good quality steel (stainless?) cotter pins.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jack,

If you have the thread space, you could always double them up / have one thin-non-castle nut with the castle nut on the top.

I searched online for castle nuts / lock nuts (with cotter pins) and there are various options, but Bill is correct about current metallurgy vs. 1920s metallurgy.

Finally, what is wrong with the original nuts?

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

David,

Everyone who frequents this message board is dyed-in-the-wool car guy.

Also, apropos of Lock & Stitch, before I learned the Hard-Way, I had a cracked cylinder block “furnace welded.”

That repair lasted for 3-days before it went to junk.

Lock & Stitch later saved the day, but it was an expensive lesson.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

David,

Because we are Pierce-Arrow devotees, it is a Society.

It is like Brandy versus Cognac.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hey Jay,

Thanks for the great idea.

BTW, do you plan on bringing your ’18-66 to the PAS Annual Meet this July in Rohnert Park?

If so, I’ll see you there.

Peter

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