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Randy,

Apropos of stud thread strength, etc., I believe that the torque on a Series 80 cylinder head stud should be no more than 50#.

The integrity of the material to endure repeated heat cycles is likely more important than stud / thread strength, per se.

Peter

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Chris,

To dovetail on Jim’s comment, once the thermostat is open, the coolant temperature goes up to whatever the radiator allows as effected by load and ambient air temperature.

The 1925 P-A cars have non-pressurized systems, so the coolant temperature goes wherever it wants.

If you are running ethyl-glycol coolant, that could be the problems, as it FOAMS in non pressurized systems.

When it foams, it hits the overflow tube and then starts siphoning off.

When it siphons off, you can lose a significant quantity / volume of coolant, thus reducing the quantity of coolant remaining in the engine / radiator, ergo causing overheating.

On my 1925 Series 80, I run a combination of distilled water and NAPA-Kool.

The NAPA Kool inhibits corrosion and does not foam.

I can still run hot, but it is not as severe as in times when I used ethyl-glycol coolant.

I also flush my cooling system with water every year to remove CRUD and such.

I usually just use water for the flush, but that depends on how CRUDDY the old liquid is when I dump it.

I then refill with the NAPA-Kool and distilled water.

You may also have the original type water pump seals (grease and packing) and that can cause a problem, as the hot water melts the grease and it migrates to the bottom of your radiator.

If you have not removed and seriously flushed your radiator in years, or ever, you need to do it.

For that operation I bought many (6+) gallons of Commercial Grade Vinegar (20% or 30% acetic acid).

I put the radiator on a set of saw-horses, warmed the vinegar bottles in a tub of hot water, used rubber bungs to plug the various inlets, and then poured in the vinegar and let it sit for 20-minutes.

I then flushed the radiator with a garden hose (from the bottom inlet) for 10 to 15-minutes to remove all of the vinegar.

The car ran cool as a cucumber for years.

I also had my water pump and fan hub redone with sealed bearings so there would be no grease migration.

Think about it.

Peter

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Tom,

I expect that you could find anything you want spring-wise at McMaster Carr.

Not only do they offer a Zillion types of springs, but they offer similar length springs with different spring-rates.

I attach a link for one type.

Peter

http://https://www.mcmaster.com/#extension-springs/=17akz87

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Bill,

Your set up looks like someone realized that the springs were getting weak and dragging the shoe.

It looks like they did a “Home Job”” to increase the spring pull by adding extra short springs rather than replacing the weak one / ones.

Peter”

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Larry,

If you go on to the Roster HERE and search by: 1929, 133, you will find that a Gent named Coxe, from California, owns the only 1929, 133, Club Berline listed on the Roster (that is unless, I missed a second or third).

You might wish to contact him about his car and its provenance.

Cheers,

Peter

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Tony,

Series 80 cars began at $2,850.00 (Runabout) and moved up in price for closed cars.

My Series 80, 7-Passenger DeLuxe Sedan was priced at $4,995.00.

The Series 80, 7-Passenger EDL with the mahogany divider sold for an additional $50.00, viz., $5,045.00.

Peter

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Link to similar product

http://https://www.amazon.com/ClipOn-Safety-Light-Visibility-Screwdriver/dp/B01N1IF7LC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491565899&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=flashing+bicycle+lights&psc=1

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Photo of lights

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I have magnetic bicycle flashers that mount on my spare carrier.

They keep people behind me aware that they are following an old car with small brake lights.

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Randy,

I think this was discussed on an earlier thread, but use Glyptal red paint on the interior of the oil pan and the oil exposed part of the crankcase.

This will keep the oil from migrating through the aluminum and discoloring it.

Peter

http://www.eastwood.com/glyptal-red-brush-on-1-qt.html

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Randy,

First, what does not work properly?

Next, you should contact me for wire!

I have YARDS of appropriate wire in at least five different colors (cloth covered (over plastic insulated) with and without tracers) for which I have no use.

I will make you a smoking deal on the balance of the rolls that I have in stock.

I will send you photos if you wish.

Otherwise, contact Rhode Island Wiring to obtain the same that I have.

Peter

http://www.riwire.com/Catalogs/sup/pages/wire.htm

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Randy,

BTW, having the fuses in the correct position is only one-half of making the correct connections.

The other half is making sure that someone did not fool with the connections from the fuse box to the switch on the dash.

When I acquired my Series 80, my Uncle’s mechanic has moved some of the wires to different positions on the switch so that it did not operate in the proper sequence.

I needed to study the correct positioning and then check and recheck as I moved the switch from one position to the next.

I believe that it functions as follows: tail lights, city lights & tail, low beam & tail, high beam & tail.

Also remember that the reverse position / light is ALWAYS HOT, so never park with the transmission in Reverse or you will quickly kill your battery.

Peter

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Gents & Ladies,

Did you see this April Fools Day commercial?

It is quite cute!

Peter

http://www.lexus.com/lanevalet/?gclid=CJjSiOzriNMCFcJrNwod0a0Emg&gclsrc=ds

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Doug,

I know nothing about how the choke on your Stromberg carb works, however I do know how the Stromberg carburetor choke on my Series 80 works.

Based upon my outdated Stromberg technological understanding relative to your 1933 Stromberg, I offer the following.

Search eBay for a pull CHOKE assembly (see attached link), mount it under your dash via a piece of fabricated sheet metal and run the stiff steel wire through the firewall (through a rubber grommet) to the choke.

If you do that, you can adjust the choke from the driver’s seat.

I trust that this is not too dumb of a suggestion.

Peter

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Harley-Davidson-Flexible-Steel-Choke-Cable-Assembly-W-C-Clip-/302156432598?hash=item4659ed44d6:g:vlEAAOSw2xRYQ0-j&vxp=mtr

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Randy,

I am reminded that the Series 80 cap has a locking notch on one side of the inside circumference of the cap to keep it from squirming.

Oh well, it was a try!

Finding brush type caps is very difficult and although $325 is steep, it is likely the only cap you will ever need.

Peter

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Randy,

Check out this eBay listing.

Actually the guy is listing THREE of the same caps.

I don’t know if they will work on a Series 80, but some others may be able to tell you.

You can also pop your cap and see if it matches.

If it does, these will go FAST now that the word is out.

Peter

http://www.ebay.com/itm/162431177812?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

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Randy,

There is another Generator / Distributor made for the Series 80, it is a DeJon, however it is extremely RARE!

I have such a spare Generator / Distributor setup and have been searching for YEARS for a spare DeJon distributor rotor.

My Series 80 came with a DeJon starter and I was lucky enough to find a Series 80 DELCO starter.

You just need to search everywhere for the distributor cap, etc.

Peter

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Here is a link to the book!

http://https://www.amazon.com/Birdmen-Wright-Brothers-Curtiss-Control/dp/0345538056

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WOW!

That is one SERIOUS Home Job!

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The NAPA number for a 174-degree thermostat (NOT 175-degrees, but 174-degrees, eesch!) that is near identical to the MotoRad thermostat I showed them is NAPA #180.

The OD dimensions of the MotoRad is 66.75 mm / 2.28-inches.

The opening on the cylinder head is 63.75 mm / 2.50 inches.

The lip on the NAPA 180 is the same.

The MotoRad number is: 248-180 (according to the MotoRad website).

NAPA did not have a 160-degree thermostat, but MotoRad says that their p/n: 248-160 is the 160-degree version of the 248-180.

The 160-degree thermostat is a WARM WEATHER ONLY thermostat.

[Author]

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