[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Randy,

You are not being too particular, as your caps are chewed up a bit.

I always wonder if they can be “worked” but who knows.

I have a feeling that the caps were cast, as on the inside of a few that I have there seems to be in the center, a casting sprue nub.

Someone else will certainly have an opinion.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Al,

Do you have your engine number?

If so, maybe we can look up your car.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Gents,

The winning procedure is to take a large “C” clamp, put a socket over the top of the hinge pin head (socket larger than the head).

With the socket in the grip of the top of the “C” clamp, tighten the clamp to push the exposed end of the hinge pin (at the bottom of the hinge) up and into the socket.

It will not move much, but enough to expose the pin shaft.

Then, you can take a drift / punch and begin tapping the pin out a bit.

Next, apply some PB Blast, let it sit overnight and tap again.

More PB Blast and more tapping.

More PB Blast and tap in back into place and then UP and OUT!

You will lose some paint in the process, but you can keep it to a minimum by being patient.

I wasn’t at first. RATS!

Thank goodness for black touch up paint.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

BRAVO! BRAVO!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Olvind,

You should post them on the PAS Emporium and see if anyone is interested in buying them.

The shipping across the pond would be dear, but who knows what someone will pay to have them.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Karl,

Thanks for the photo.

I have one like what you show, but I fear it is too small for the pump nut on my Series 80

It is also difficult to use from bottom up (tightening).

However, the last time I tighten the nut one (1) notch to eliminate what appeared to be a SLIGHT leak (not active) from a series of long tours, the nut / shaft immediately began to leak.

I backed it off to the original position and the leak stopped.

I drove it for an hour or so and no leak, DUH!

I will see you at the Hotel in Hershey and make a purchase.

With any luck my diesel will not blow up in transit this year.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Paul,

Thanks for your photo.

Mine has the swing head like Karl’s and also is not imprinted PIERCE.

It is interesting to see the variation.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Gents,

Can someone please post a photo of the water pump notched nut wrench?

I thought that I had a complete set of P-A wrenches, but now I believe that I am missing that wrench.

Thanks,

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Ken,

This is a one-sided piece.

MotoMeters have two disks inside, one face disk and one gauge disk.

They both mount, back to back on the front section of the gauge.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Randy,

I love the cafeteria tray concept!

I think that I need to steal a few from the local high school.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

David,

I guess that they are too snooty to take a joke!

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hello David,

Liz Enney and Liz Horne are one and the same.

Under any name Liz is just as awesome.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

David,

Liz Horne is running the 2017 Meet and she will do an excellent job, as she has a TON of experience running Meets for various car clubs.

However do not expect to receive any information about the 2017 Meet details until February or so.

She will give you plenty of time to register, etc., but you need to be a bit patient.

Just save the dates so that you avoid any conflicts and we will see you in St. Louis.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Joe,

Some people say that if a Pierce-Arrow is not leaking oil, or some other liquid, then there is no oil in the pan or in the other fluid reservoirs.

That said, my Series 80 does not leak oil, that is, until I drive it or trailer it and then the jostling of the oil while in transit leaks out of the rear of the engine / transmission.

It bugs me, but I just clean up the floor of the trailer and shrug.

Also, I went to a local sheet metal shop and had them make up a few drip pans.

I have one under the differential (I sealed the heck out of it, but I still get an occasional drip at the flange and the filling hole) and one pan that is large enough to give coverage between the transmission and rear of the engine oil pan.

I also have one that sits under the radiator because the hose clamps loosen during winter storage.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

David,

Greg is a veritable encyclopedia of information and is quite correct in that when you add fuel to the car, the old fuel is mixed with the newer fuel so the older stuff is always being revitalized.

With the newer types of fuel degrading much faster than that of 25-years ago (pre-ethanol), revitalizing regularly is good.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Greg,

Thanks for the info.

I have never been inside the fuel tank of a Series 80.

Now I understand why there are two drain plugs at the bottom of the tank AND a suction tube showing in each of the drain plug holes.

There is a baffle, but as you point out, it is not a movable baffle, it is just that one of the fuel feed tubes is on the left side of the baffle and the other on the right side.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jak,

Where have you been?

Yesterday, I was wondering about whether you had been swallowed up by the Beasts of OZ!

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Gents,

BTW, I make many of my own gaskets from gasket material that I buy from McMaster-Carr or my local Industrial supply house.

Many gaskets are not that big of a deal to construct.

All you need is the material, a pattern (old gasket), a pencil and a set of Exacto knives.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Bill,

I used the Permatex on most of my gaskets, even the ones from Olsen’s.

I worked with them to make a more effective valve cover gasket for Series 80 cars.

Originally, it was a perimeter gasket and they leaked no matter what you did, but when I acquired my Series 80, the valve cover gasket was one full sheet of rubberized cork.

I made one up, ran it with no leaks and then sent another prototype to Olsen’s.

They liked the idea and now produce it for the Series 80, and probably other cars.

Even with that gasket, I use Permatex Ultra Black to hold the gasket in place before I tighten the valve covers.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Doug,

You just use.a putty knife and hammer and gently tap the blade around the pan.

I would also have a jack raised to the bottom of the pan so that when it wants to drop, it does not drop on you.

After it is off, you use the putty knife to clean off the gasket maker.

You won’t have to drop the pan for years unless you have a serious engine problem

I would jut use a thin coating of the Permatex on each face of the gasket and a bit more at the split / seam between the halves.

Peter

[Author]

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