William,
Was that regulator on the Titanic? I guess it is 9 years too late. Looks like you saved the “unsavable””. Exquisite work.”
Sold at $12,550. Anybody in the club get it?
Here is a listing for a ’35, is it different?
Here is the stainless tube. You can go to heavier wall if you want.
If you get 300 series (T304 or T316) tube you can polish it and skip the plating.
Bill,
How did you clean your block. It looks almost like the old “Hot Tank”” acid dip.
Bill”
I have had great luck with Olcar.
He even has a listing for a ’40 Pierce Arrow, I guess it would be hard to argue about whether or not it is correct.
I don’t know what is correct for your year, but this guy seems to have some options. the second is an ebay guy.
702 747 is the same casting as my ’33 and ’35 blocks, I think.
In support of Ed’s posting, that casting date doesn’t match Pierce protocol, because I think M is 1932 so what would that make H a 27?
Calvin,
Do you have a either/both a part number and casting dates cast in the block?
Bill
Needs white walls
Bob,
The non counter weight crank still has the flywheel bolts in it, so it looks a little longer, but the threaded part is longer I believe
The later crank’s lobs were drilled for balance. Cost cutting, I guess
Here is the newer one.
One noticeable difference in the two cranks is the bolt on counterweights on the early engine.
I guess I should read more carefully. Does the title number match the engine number?
Eric,
Sorry for your trials. Where did the car come from? Do you have a title? Some states, like Georgia, don’t have titles for older cars, just bills of sale.
Bill