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Looks similar to XK Jaguars pedal excluders

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Bill,

Thanks for the input. I don’t like hammering on things that are hard to replace. Did you have to alter the flats on the head or is there enough clearance?

Bill

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One last thing. They both weigh 1.4 oz.

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Here is a side by side comparison of the PA rod bolt(black)and the Jaguar one (silver).

Main difference is the main body of the Jag bolt is .375″ while the Pierce is .372″. Is .003 too much interference or should the hole be reamed? The Pierce bolt is just a push fit, the Jag would require force.

The Jag also is tapered down to .350″ from the middle to the start of the threads, then goes out to the .374″ threaded end diameter, same as the Pierce. Threads are the same.

Under head bolt length is 2.5″ for the Jag and 2.575″ for the Pierce. There is no cotter pin hole to line up on the Jag bolt, so I guess thread locker might be in order although I have heard some say torque alone is all that is required.

It also looks like the flat, to keep the bolt from turning, on the head of the Jag bolt is wider(thicker) than the Pierce and will probably have to be ground down.

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Here is one supplier. I like these as they are one diameter, some others are stepped. The length looks correct.

http://www.terrysjag.com/product/C32344.html

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Here are some more vanities

http://classicaccessories.org/cgi-bin/items.cgi?q=3

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Thanks Greg and Bill

The Jaguar part number is C32344 and ARP makes a set. I have one on order for comparison.

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Greg,

The fact the mains bolts have the heads drilled probably means they have more accurate torque settings

Bill

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Greg,

I noticed the nuts required different forces to get them loose. Some “cracked”” others just unscrewed. I guess self locking nuts would be in order.

Bill”

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I haven’t done a pan inspection, but based on the chip location, they would have been retained in the rod bearing. There was some difference in the torque required to remove the rod bolts. No evidence of heat.

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Greg, Good point, I think these cars are 6′ at least. But, since I will be picking up the body probably from under the sills, thru the top area, the hoist will drop into the body. But now that you point that out I would either have to take the wheels off and lower the frame to jack stands or raise the top bar. I am rethinking to 9′

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Pay with a credit card and contest it with the issuer if something goes sideways. They tend to side with the consumer, as I found out as a vendor.

I quit taking AX because they always sided with the cardholder even if they said that they thought the bill was too high and only wanted to pay half. Gives you a potential backup if ebay bails.

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Good site. Thanks Karl

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Interesting and informative thread. Thanks Guys

Does anyone know how many feet of wire are required for an 836, 8 Cylinder?

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Aircraft Spruce and Specialty sells 4130 strips

.032 1 x 72 03-18120 $4.75 for 6′

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/4130strips.php

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Here is a potential for heavy head bolts

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130337632467?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

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Here is a site that may help

http://dmacweb.com/tech/brakes/bendix/BENDIX.htm

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Looks like it has a woodruff key so it would slide on. The threads probably hold It on. Since the nut is off, it might be stuck on the shaft. I would soak it in Kroil or acetone/automotive transmission fluid. I think patience is you best tool. Soak, tap lightly with a hammer, repeat

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Can you get a picture looking up the column form the steering box so we can see the back side?

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I have been using tractor mufflers on my Morgan’s and they have some 2 1/4″ inlets. I was going to see if they may have something that fit. I am pretty sure they are not double wrapped, but they look kind of period correct.

Since the Morgan’s TR engine is Ferguson tractor derived, I think is appropriate.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/stanley-muffler-company-inlet-aluminized-muffler-dr-8?cm_vc=-10005

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