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Bill, do a web search for “Buying a collector car long distance””. All sorts of articles will pop up with good information on things to watch out for.
Dave”
Scott, It has worked OK for me the last several days. I checked this morning and it is OK. Brad did respond to both a post on the HCCA Facebook page and Facebook messaging. I am using Firefox, but also tried MS Edge and it worked there also. Are you using: https://www.hcca.org/index.php ?
Dave
Scott, Brad has been responsive through Facebook messaging. I got a message from him a couple of hours ago and he said it all appears to be working. I have been able to access the classifieds and in fact there has been a Pierce-Arrow Conv. Coupe added to it.
Try contacting him through Facebook messaging.
Dave
Scott, here is the response I got from Brad through the Facebook page: Yes Dave … there was. I moved hcca.org to new VPS (virtual private server) hosting and got the ssl certificate moved for horselsscarriage.org, but hcca.org’s ssl cert took longer making https connections not work on hcca.org. Our Website and the Boards should be back working. Unfortunately, I made a backup of the Boards just before the move, but it would not restore on the new server and I had to use the backup from a few days earlier. Unfortunately, one or two Board posts appear to have gotten lost.
Scott, I have been able to get to the HCCA website all afternoon and evening, including classifieds. I cleared my history and cache just to make sure I wasn’t getting a stored copy. However, There are no posts past June on the Discussion Board and some pictures have disappeared out of the classifieds. I tried to log on to post on the Discussion Board and got a page unavailable message, so something is going on. Have you tried contacting Brad through the HCCA Facebook page? If there is a HCCA server issue perhaps his HCCA e-mail may not be going through. -Dave
I was just on it, however, I could not get on it a few days ago. The ads appear to have lost pictures and the Discussion board has lost recent posts.
Check with Paul Morris, the Webmaster, or Janet Lange, the Membership Chair to see if any changes were made. There was an issue a few weeks ago where the entire membership data base was accidentally corrupted and had to be re-installed. Maybe something similar happened today.
Looks like phishing to me. I did not get it, but my e-mail is incorrect in the database. Dave
Don, We enjoyed having you ride along. Good luck on finding a car of your own.
Ken and Twila, It was great meeting you.
Dave
…well at least your car is older, although it did make it to Hurricane Ridge in fine style.
I am not much of a Facebook person, but I do think that our Facebook page is a good way to attract non-members to our events and Society membership.
We took our Pierce-Arrow on a Nickel Era Tour in this area in May (as did Rich). We went to many of the same places, it is beautiful country with great touring.
Rich, you might consider posting this on the Facebook page also, you might pick up a non member or two.
Some of the Pierce-Arrows at another private collection.
A small portion of the Pat Craig collection.
Jim Oshner’s and Bob Jacobson’s cars at the Hillsborough Concours.
California Coast near Bodega Bay.
Armstrong Redwoods State Park.
Castelli Winery and Memorabilia Collections
Castella di Amorosa Winery
Here’s a couple:
Robert,
Thanks for the info. This might be suitable oil, but not enough information is provided. Most of the companies that sell a 600w equivalent buy a larger quantity from an oil distributor and then repackage it in a smaller bottle. The problem is, there is no Product Data Sheet available on the website to see what it really is. What kind of oil is it? Is is safe for yellow metals? Maybe, but no way of telling without the data sheet. Perhaps a call to ask them would provide the information.
The web page says it is SAE 140 which is heavy for a modern EP oil, but would be a lighter weight of Compounded gear oil. Many of the rear axles in older cars have felt seals that tend to leak with lighter oils and people like to use the heaviest weight possible in the differential to prevent leaks. Compounded oil also comes in SAE 190 and 250.
Transmissions are a different story. How the transmission shifts is dependent on the viscosity of the oil. I tend to prefer the shifting when I use the SAE 190 gear oil. Others prefer a heavier oil to slow the gears down quicker when shifting. Personal preference.
The Phillips Compounded Gear Oil in ISO 1000 (SAE 250) is what both George and I are looking for. The manufacturer PDS lists it as suitable antique auto gear boxes with yellow metal. I live in a rural area and the only Phillips distributor near me doesn’t want to buy 55 gallons to sell me 5. He has little to no demand for it. Understandable. I am going to contact some distributors in the Bay Area and see if one has or is willing to get some.
Sorry for being so long winded.
Dave
Stu,
Another of those old car topics that has generated much discussion.
What I have read on the topic is to stay away from the “Extended” or “Long” Life coolants that use Organic Additive Technology (OAT). The older style coolant that uses Inorganic Additive Technology (IAT) is what should be used in older cars. There are several brands (Peak, Peak HD Sierra, Zerex Original)that still use the older technology. Don’t depend on color, although generally the older style is green.
Apparently, the OAT type eats up gasket sealer as well as some solders.
I use water with NAPA Corrosion Inhibitor / Water Pump Lube, since freezing is not much of an issue out here.
The link is to an AACA forum that give some more information.
Dave
http://www.ncregionaaca.com/firstcapital/index.php/old-cars-and-antifreeze
