[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I contacted Clean Sweep to make sure they are still in business. They are.

Melissa Klein
Clean sweep Wiper Motors
3395 NW Elm Ave
Redmond, OR  97756
541-410-5671

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

David,

If you haven’t checked with Clean Sweep, I suggest you also try them.  I spoke with the original owner several years ago and he was very knowledgeable and helpful.  I believe that he is out of the business now and I think it is run by his daughter. It wouldn’t hurt to talk to them.

Dave

Updated contact information for them:

Now run by Melissa Klein it is at 3395 NW Elm Ave, Redmond, OR 97756

541-410-5671

[email protected]

 

 

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

There are two vendors listed in the Parts and Services Directory that deal in Windshield Wipers. They might be able to help you.

Body & Trim (External)
Windshield wiper motors, blades, etc.
– Rebuild kits, NOS
David Ficken
631-587-3332
132 Calvert Avenue
West Babylon, NY 11704
http://www.rebuildingtricowipers.com

 

Body & Trim (External)
Windshield wiper repair
Clean-Sweep
541-923-4319
2633 SW Obsidian, Unit #15
Redmond, OR 97756
[email protected]

 

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Carl,

That is one of seven Galloping Geese, created by the Rio Grande Southern Railroad using used cars. That looks like Goose #4, built in 1934. It looks to me like a Series 33 from the 20s. The first Goose was built in 1930, based on a Buick car. Number Six was also based on a Buick, but later updated using a Pierce-Arrow.  The rest were built on used Pierce-Arrows. #1 exists in replica form, the rest still exist.  They have seen many modifications over the years. More information at http://drgw.free.fr/RGS/Goose/Goose_en.htm

For more information on Goose #4, go to  https://www.ridgwayrailroadmuseum.org/Goose4.html  It looks like at some point the body was replaced.

Here is a cleaner copy of the same picture.

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jim,

It doesn’t look like your photos loaded. There is a message Board tutorial here:  https://pierce-arrow.org/message-board-help/

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Amos,

I e-mailed you the Arrow Travelodge issue in a pdf.  (Portable Document Format).

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Carl,

Thanks for the information. It has been added to the Parts and Services Directory page.  Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Amos,

Arrow 69-3 has a lot of information on the Travelodge including some brochures.  You can possibly order one from Dave Stevens: https://pierce-arrow.org/members/the-arrow/

I can also e-mail you a digital copy if you want.

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Randy,

The 24 tpi aren’t as common but are out there.  At any rate it sounds like you found some.

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hi Randy,

The local hardware store is the first stop. The pointed end makes them unusual. If nothing else they should have a thread gauge so you can determine the size and thread count.

If you have the head type, thread and size, you can check McMaster-Carr. https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/ 

or Fastenal. https://www.fastenal.com/product/Fasteners/Screws?categoryId=600051

or a specialty supplier such as Misumi  https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/mech_screw/

Assuming they are a standard thread, you can always grind/file the pointed end on a standard screw. Are these from your S 80?

Dave

 

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I didn’t find any more photos of his car with the top down, so getting specific ones from him is probably the best path.

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Robert,

You might contact George Teebay,  He has a ’30 Roadster and has a cover for his top.  I don’t know what differences there might be between ’29 and ’30, but I suspect they are close. It looks similar to what you posted.  Sorry the photo I have isn’t better. I’ll dig through my photos and see if I have anything better.

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Carl,

Here is someone you might check with.  He repairs clocks, I don’t know if he has any he sells.  Dave

Dash Instruments
Clock Repair
Mechanical Movements, Some Electrics
E. Wayne Scites
256.529.9025
[email protected]

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Alan,

Here is what I came up with. If I run across anything more, I’ll post it.

There is an oil cup on the distributor that takes a few drops of motor oil every 1000 miles. There also is a large screw cap on the side of the distributor. The manual calls for adding light cup grease every 10,000 miles.  I use white lithium grease in it.

The information below came out of various Service Bulletins. You might do a search under publications using the Technical Search tool for “Series 33” or “Series 36” under Model and “Distributor” under Title and see if you come up with anything else. You can play with the search terms a little which may yield more or less results.

 

 

 

 

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Alan,

I may have something on setting up the points.  As I find pertinent articles in the PASB, I copy them and put them in a binder that stays with the car. I’ll dig it out and see what I can find.  I will see if I can see the tag on the distributor to confirm it is the same number. I also have a spare distributor complete except for the rotor.  All of the S33/36 distributors I have are Delco, however I have seen ads for DeJon distributors for S 36. Perhaps P-A had a second supplier or they were aftermarket replacements.

Do you have a Series 33/36 car or just the distributor?  Your record shows that you have ’35 and ’37 cars. If you have others, I’d like to update our records.

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hi Alan,

Hopefully this will help you. It is out of the Series 36 Parts Book. I believe the S 36 used the same distributor as the late S 33. If you find a source for the cap and rotor please share it.  I would like to get a spare rotor for my cars.

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Tony and Jim,

The website is supposed to require login every week or two.  This is a security measure to help prevent hacking from long term open logins. Additionally, if you change devices it will log you out from the previous device. So if you use your computer, then go to your phone, you will have to login. If you then go back to your computer, you will have to login again. More security stuff.  Apparently some browsers also may not let you stay logged in more than a certain amount of time. Jim, you might try a different browser to see if that resolves your problem.

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I have to re-log in roughly every two weeks on my computer and I believe this is the way the system is supposed to work if you check the “Remember Me” box. If I go to a different device I have to log in again.  On my phone for some reason I have to log in every time. I’ll talk to some of the web folks and see what is supposed to be happening.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

https://www.cbsnews.com/news/jay-leno-in-stable-condition-after-suffering-serious-burns-from-gasoline-fire/

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Stu,

Talk to Greg Long.  I believe he has been using the tape that is used for wrapping underground gas lines in place of the flaps with success. The tape I have is PVC and 20 mil.

Dave

[Author]

Posts