Pretty crazy, considering Hemming’s has another similar ’36 1602 listed for $49,500, and it has been listed for a while.
Carl,
These photos are both of 1930 Bs. Two different methods of attaching the rod. I’m not sure which is correct.
Dave,
Thanks for the feedback.
Steve,
Arrow 69-3 features the Travel Lodges with copies of brochures, specifications, etc. Printed copies are available from Dave Stevens. I can e-mail you a digital copy.
Dave
This information is in PASB 99-5;
Connecting Rod Bearings on “8” and “12” Engines …..
To: (the owner of a ’34 Model 836A)
Your letter asks if the connecting rod bearings in your 1934 Model
836A engine may be replaced with modern shell-type bearings as described by
Eric Rosenau in PASB 80-3.
When this engine was designed, the crankshaft main bearings were laid
out as replacement shell type, but the connecting rod bearings were designed
as centrifugally cast-in-place babbitt, with babbitt thrust shoulders on ei-
ther side of the bearing.
The Pierce ~Twelve”, a later design, did not use the thrust shoulders.
Therefore, it is no great problem to replace the spun-in-place bearings of
the “Twelve” with modern straight shell bearings, but the connecting rod
bearings of the “Eight” require a shell bearing having shoulders on either
side equal to the thickness of the original babbitt shoulder. The rod width
is much less than the crankshaft bearing journal.
Further, the “Eight” rod was deliberately left rough in the big end
bore to form a better bond with the babbitt.
Therefore, in order to use a shell bearing, the rods must be accu-
rately diamond-bored.
The only shell bearing having thrust shoulders to fit this rod is the
Seagrave, made for this engine later by Seagrave, the old parts numbers be-
ing 28201 (upper and 28202 (lower). I do not know who supplied these to Sea-
grave, but suspect that it was the Cleveland Graphite Bronze Division, of
the Clevite Corporation, 17000 St. Clair Ave., Cleveland, Ohio.
Probably the simplest solution is to replace the poured-in-place bab-
~itt bearings and bore them to suit the crankshaft journals. There are exam-
ples of these “Eights” havin,g run a half million miles on such bearings, so
they may be adequate for an antique. If the bearing dimensions are supplied
to the vendor who is rebuilding your engine, little else should be neces-
sary.
PASB 68-1 also mentions the use of insert bearings for Seagrave V-12 for the rods with some machining required. Seagrave is still in business, it might be worth contacting them. [email protected]
Dave
I contacted Clean Sweep to make sure they are still in business. They are.
Melissa Klein
Clean sweep Wiper Motors
3395 NW Elm Ave
Redmond, OR 97756
541-410-5671
David,
If you haven’t checked with Clean Sweep, I suggest you also try them. I spoke with the original owner several years ago and he was very knowledgeable and helpful. I believe that he is out of the business now and I think it is run by his daughter. It wouldn’t hurt to talk to them.
Dave
Updated contact information for them:
Now run by Melissa Klein it is at 3395 NW Elm Ave, Redmond, OR 97756
541-410-5671
There are two vendors listed in the Parts and Services Directory that deal in Windshield Wipers. They might be able to help you.
Body & Trim (External)
Windshield wiper motors, blades, etc.
– Rebuild kits, NOS
David Ficken
631-587-3332
132 Calvert Avenue
West Babylon, NY 11704
http://www.rebuildingtricowipers.com
Body & Trim (External)
Windshield wiper repair
Clean-Sweep
541-923-4319
2633 SW Obsidian, Unit #15
Redmond, OR 97756
[email protected]
Carl,
That is one of seven Galloping Geese, created by the Rio Grande Southern Railroad using used cars. That looks like Goose #4, built in 1934. It looks to me like a Series 33 from the 20s. The first Goose was built in 1930, based on a Buick car. Number Six was also based on a Buick, but later updated using a Pierce-Arrow. The rest were built on used Pierce-Arrows. #1 exists in replica form, the rest still exist. They have seen many modifications over the years. More information at http://drgw.free.fr/RGS/Goose/Goose_en.htm
For more information on Goose #4, go to https://www.ridgwayrailroadmuseum.org/Goose4.html It looks like at some point the body was replaced.
Here is a cleaner copy of the same picture.
Dave
Jim,
It doesn’t look like your photos loaded. There is a message Board tutorial here: https://pierce-arrow.org/message-board-help/
Amos,
I e-mailed you the Arrow Travelodge issue in a pdf. (Portable Document Format).
Dave
Carl,
Thanks for the information. It has been added to the Parts and Services Directory page. Dave
Amos,
Arrow 69-3 has a lot of information on the Travelodge including some brochures. You can possibly order one from Dave Stevens: https://pierce-arrow.org/members/the-arrow/
I can also e-mail you a digital copy if you want.
Dave
Randy,
The 24 tpi aren’t as common but are out there. At any rate it sounds like you found some.
Dave
Hi Randy,
The local hardware store is the first stop. The pointed end makes them unusual. If nothing else they should have a thread gauge so you can determine the size and thread count.
If you have the head type, thread and size, you can check McMaster-Carr. https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/
or Fastenal. https://www.fastenal.com/product/Fasteners/Screws?categoryId=600051
or a specialty supplier such as Misumi https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/mech_screw/
Assuming they are a standard thread, you can always grind/file the pointed end on a standard screw. Are these from your S 80?
Dave
I didn’t find any more photos of his car with the top down, so getting specific ones from him is probably the best path.
Dave
Robert,
You might contact George Teebay, He has a ’30 Roadster and has a cover for his top. I don’t know what differences there might be between ’29 and ’30, but I suspect they are close. It looks similar to what you posted. Sorry the photo I have isn’t better. I’ll dig through my photos and see if I have anything better.
Dave
Carl,
Here is someone you might check with. He repairs clocks, I don’t know if he has any he sells. Dave
Dash Instruments
Clock Repair
Mechanical Movements, Some Electrics
E. Wayne Scites
256.529.9025
[email protected]
Alan,
Here is what I came up with. If I run across anything more, I’ll post it.
There is an oil cup on the distributor that takes a few drops of motor oil every 1000 miles. There also is a large screw cap on the side of the distributor. The manual calls for adding light cup grease every 10,000 miles. I use white lithium grease in it.
The information below came out of various Service Bulletins. You might do a search under publications using the Technical Search tool for “Series 33” or “Series 36” under Model and “Distributor” under Title and see if you come up with anything else. You can play with the search terms a little which may yield more or less results.
Alan,
I may have something on setting up the points. As I find pertinent articles in the PASB, I copy them and put them in a binder that stays with the car. I’ll dig it out and see what I can find. I will see if I can see the tag on the distributor to confirm it is the same number. I also have a spare distributor complete except for the rotor. All of the S33/36 distributors I have are Delco, however I have seen ads for DeJon distributors for S 36. Perhaps P-A had a second supplier or they were aftermarket replacements.
Do you have a Series 33/36 car or just the distributor? Your record shows that you have ’35 and ’37 cars. If you have others, I’d like to update our records.
Dave