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I went to my files, and wouldn’t you know it, I have the color charts for 1933 (lower) and 1935 (upper), but no chart for 1934.
No Piping Rock Green is listed on either chart. There’s 1935 Moss Green Light, P.A. Green Light, P.A. Green Dark. There’s 1933 Brewster Green, Evergreen, Jade Green.
If you’re going to do the wiring yourself, I’d recommend Brillman for wire and connectors, a great resource. No, I don’t own stock in company, but owner is a good guy!
The shutters on my 1931 Model 43 were painted from the factory, they’ve never been chromed.
Many thanks to Liz and Rick, and everyone who had a part in putting on the meet! I had a great time, seeing old friends and meeting new.
As mentioned, whoever was in charge of weather dialed it in perfectly! And, lots of interesting stuff to see….
I made it home a little while ago, towed my new Pierce toy home!
I’m leaving in the morning, won’t be there until Wednesday noonish, looking forward to it! It’s a long lonely drive by myself….. See ya there!
I agree, without removing upholstery, you won’t be able to get to the wires. The switch is mounted in wood, so the wires have to first go through a path/hole that’s bored in the wood, then up to the dome light…you’d have to remove, or at least partially remove, the interior panels on that side of the car. These are usually held in place with small headless brads, driven through the upholstery and panel board, then the material popped over the top of the brad. Actually not that difficult to remove and replace IF the panel board is in good condition.
If the panel board is brittle, then it would be a mess trying to remove.
Attached shows a brad in place, ready to pop the upholstery material over it to hide….
I received an email from Peter Pebbles, stating that he has a warehouse full of parts and lots of stuff for my 1927 Dodge fast four cabriolet. No one has lots of stuff for this car, and he further asked what I wanted, when I’d clearly posted that I was looking for a steering box.
It’s a scam, as mentioned. If you’re still tempted, ask him for a picture of the car or part from a certain angle, or with a current newspaper clearly showing a date.
If you have both a switch on the inside of the car, and a push switch that activates when the door opens, then they are wired together so that either one will activate the lights. Thus, power in to both switches, and power out to all lights from both switches (in both cases they join at a T to distribute power. Guess I could draw a diagram if that’s confusing….
If it’s typical of later Pierce Arrows, there’ll be a solid copper grounding wire going to the dome light, and rear lights, and you don’t have to worry about those.
The “hot” wire goes from the switch to both dome and rear lights, if original is a cloth insulated wire and the cloth is probably brittle to the touch. In addition, the hot wire, insulated, is held in place by heavy staples over the wire and into the wood. You won’t be able to just pull these out, you’d have to remove upholstery to do so.
The headliner has listings, or pieces of folded cloth, sewn to each seam (this is the standard method, although I’ve seen headliner just folded and sewn, and the extra fold material is what hangs the headliner). These cloths are then tacked to the wood cross framing in the top. You can’t just take one section loose, you have to start at the back and remove each section as you go, otherwise you can’t get to tacks. A major job.
At minimum, you’d have to remove the rear interior quarter panel on the switch side to get to the wiring, and then you might be able to fish the new wire over the headliner and into the quarters (with rear seat removed).
Whew, hard to explain. Just know you’re only dealing with one hot wire to each light, as the ground wires can stay in place and you don’t have to replace them.
I believe it’s very difficult at this point to determine the origins of the car, and correctness, without knowing the history and having documentation. A very close inspection can usually give you hints as to the body being original or not, looking under the seat and such and whether it’s new or old wood.
The auction link lists this as “chassis 170”, and using this number in the identification guide on this site comes up as a 1902 5 horsepower car. It’s also possible that the auction company gave the engine number, not the car/chassis number.
The chassis number, also according to this guide, should be stamped on the rear spring hanger and possibly a front spindle. It’s my understanding that the car/chassis number and the engine number are not the same. The engine number should be stamped in numerous places on the engine. My 1903 6 horsepower engine even has the engine number stamped on the timer.
It is further my understanding that the car/chassis number IS stamped at one place on the engine, but it’s under one of the mounting brackets bolted to the crankcase. I’m sure the current owner won’t let you start taking the engine out to verify!
I understand your concern and question, for a long time a properly recreated car, using original main components, held good value, but these days potential buyers are very much interested in originality and provenance. Recreated cars just don’t bring the same money as proven original cars.
Good luck with your possible acquisition!
Interesting, in the auction listing link for this Stanhope there’s a very nice description of a Leland Cadillac! Neat early Pierce, wish I could help you on history, hopefully someone can…
Peter, no, that still looks too thick…I will see if I have a piece of the old stuff left, it’s just slightly larger than the small pipe to which it connects
…
The wiper mounting on my car, as it’s been for a long, long time…
Bob, yes, it’s visible, it runs along the windshield frame, so clear is not an option……thanks, Randy, that’s an interesting thought, will check up on it….
Yes, my phaeton has all the metal tubing too, am trying to find something that doesn’t stick out as much as the available vacuum tubing…I’ll check on the McMaster Carr stuff, that resource is great, order one day and on your doorstep the next!
I made a mistake in my post, it was supposed to be BROaDMOOR….
I would think money wasn’t a problem for the owners of the Broadmoor, although it’s interesting to see that it went into receivership in 1932 and the one of the original owners (Spencer Penrose) became sole owner.
With hundreds of rooms in 1930, and over 700 rooms now, cash flow was (and probably is?) good!
Another tidbit, the correct logo spelling of the name is BROaDMORE, all caps but one, with the lower case “a”” in the upper part of the space!”
This car does appear to have the small plaque with the number 10 on the dashboard. Very interesting car….
George, that was the reason for my question mark on the statement! I might call them tomorrow and see what the deal is, whether they’re still available…all fun stuff….
There was a nice faux Pierce Service sign done a few years back, I have one stashed away, they come up on Ebay every now and then..and as I was typing this, Googled same, and here’s what came up, they’re still available?
http://signpast.com/products/steel-reproduction-pierce-arrow-service.html
