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I believe anything negative said about a car should be said privately, between one with the knowledge and a would be buyer, NOT on any public forum.
Ed Minnie is a great example of that, numerous times he’s told people to contact him for information on a particular car, but he doesn’t say bad things about a car in “public”. It’s a good way to operate.
Good things are OK to say, however, if you know a car is a really good one!!
Paul, what was final price per set, and are there any “extra”” for sale? thanks David C.”
I agree with inserts for rods, the only downside is that a failure of an insert will likely damage a crank much more than the failure of a babbit bearing.
There are different qualities of babbit, just as there are different grades and qualities of any metal. Also, there’s both science and art to pouring and finishing babbit correctly, and like a lot of trades, we’re losing people who know how to do it correctly.
I know that I’m over simplifying, but I always wondered about multi viscosity oils in older engines.
A 10W/30, for example, is 10 weight oil at ambient temperature, and 30 weight oil at engine operating temperatures.
So, I start my antique engine, full of bunny rabbit bearings, with 10 weight oil the only thing between crank and journals. That doesn’t make sense to me. Yes, in a new, insert, thin bearing surface engine, fine, but will it make my rabbit more bunny, that’s the question.
My Pierce lives in a temperature controlled room, so the possibility of starting it at 20 degrees ambient is pretty small. I run straight 30 weight, in that and my Cord and Packard, and don’t have problems.
I’m sure the discussion will continue.
Well, let’s see, 1000+ members, if we each put up $5K, then it’s ours!
Slight problem after that of course, figuring what to do with it….
Well, now that the gloves are off, I said they may be period correct, didn’t say I liked them. Personally, I think they’re silly. To “protect” the running board rubber, one drills four holes through it and squeezes it down with a plate. I don’t think they add any value or appearance to any car. Whew, feel better now!…
It will be interesting to see if there are any Pierce specific running board step plates out there.
I’d think you could take a blank plate, available as attached, and either engrave the Pierce name, or make an insert.
Personally, I think step plates are period correct for teens or twenties cars, but detract from the appearance of thirties cars.
Thanks for link, I’ve passed it on to questioner. I also passed on recommendations to contact the AACA library. Thanks! dc
I agree on the rock guard, I bought one for my ’31, propped it up against the radiator front, and didn’t like the look at all, so sold it…
The regular shutters that are factory look great, and as mentioned, could come either painted or chromed…..
There should be an overflow tube below the filler neck, and that overflow tube prevents pressure from building up, in addition to taking care of minor overfills. The radiator cap itself should have a gasket, but it usually isn’t water tight, as many stains on radiator shells would show!
I’d start looking at the overflow tube, though, sounds like it’s missing or plugged…….
Reminds me of the cartoon of the fellow waking up in the hospital after an operation, looking down at his chest, and yelling “OH NO, a Lucas pacemaker!!”
[as an aside, the interesting thing is that Lucas did, in fact, make a pacemaker….one fellow is quoted as saying “I have a Lucas pacemaker, and I’ve never had any trou…………….”]
Yes, Bob, as you know, I are an edumacated engrinear…..
It’ll be really interesting to see where it’s bid at the auction. Ed, I agree, that wiring is beyond a mess….looks like the crazy engineer was trying to install a flux capacitor and got sidetracked….
These locks were not used on 1934-38, as those wheels were drop center style. I believe they were used only 1929-31, possibly 1932?
Surely someone else with better knowledge than I could say exactly….
Yes, please update us, even if it’s not going quite as planned…we’ve all been there and can commiserate….
Nice looking car…and I get a kick out of you going to “interview an upholsterer”….I retired from an engineering career and mentioned to a few people that I’d do some trim work (I actually did it professionally at a well known restoration shop for two years), and I’ve been “interviewed” a number of times now…but the best interview is me showing them my work!…and been busy for almost three years with projects that just seem to keep coming…it’s getting harder to find a trimmer to do correct work on early cars…am sure yours will turn out great!
Good points, Peter. Yes, thank you, understand it is an effort of love and do appreciate any such information.
Great, major milestone, congrats! thanks for update….
I agree with using pure gas, no ethanol, there are a couple of local stations that sell it. It’s about 10% more expensive, maybe a little more, but it can last a little longer and gives more power, so worth it.
The real caveat with using ethanol laden gas is storage. I have a friend, called me up a while back, had two GTO’s sitting in storage for two years. Wouldn’t start, told him he’d have to remove gas tanks and have cleaned, and go through fuel pump and carb. He laughed and said I was crazy. A month later he called and asked “how’d you know?”.
Ethanol will go bad so, so easily.
All gas is different now than it was when these cars were new. I’ll put in a plug for John Cislak, he rebuilt the carb and fuel pump on my ’31 phaeton, made some jet adjustments for the new gas, I’ll tell you, it’s a different car….sounds better, more power, the whole bit….a real difference…..
The casting of the manifolds is only half the battle, too. Then the machine work has to be done, and it’s a very tricky shape to work with. I have a repro exhaust manifold on my ’31 (from the ones that were made a long time ago, 30+ years I believe)and remember the machine work was a challenge…..
