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Yes, Bob, as you know, I are an edumacated engrinear…..
It’ll be really interesting to see where it’s bid at the auction. Ed, I agree, that wiring is beyond a mess….looks like the crazy engineer was trying to install a flux capacitor and got sidetracked….
These locks were not used on 1934-38, as those wheels were drop center style. I believe they were used only 1929-31, possibly 1932?
Surely someone else with better knowledge than I could say exactly….
Yes, please update us, even if it’s not going quite as planned…we’ve all been there and can commiserate….
Nice looking car…and I get a kick out of you going to “interview an upholsterer”….I retired from an engineering career and mentioned to a few people that I’d do some trim work (I actually did it professionally at a well known restoration shop for two years), and I’ve been “interviewed” a number of times now…but the best interview is me showing them my work!…and been busy for almost three years with projects that just seem to keep coming…it’s getting harder to find a trimmer to do correct work on early cars…am sure yours will turn out great!
Good points, Peter. Yes, thank you, understand it is an effort of love and do appreciate any such information.
Great, major milestone, congrats! thanks for update….
I agree with using pure gas, no ethanol, there are a couple of local stations that sell it. It’s about 10% more expensive, maybe a little more, but it can last a little longer and gives more power, so worth it.
The real caveat with using ethanol laden gas is storage. I have a friend, called me up a while back, had two GTO’s sitting in storage for two years. Wouldn’t start, told him he’d have to remove gas tanks and have cleaned, and go through fuel pump and carb. He laughed and said I was crazy. A month later he called and asked “how’d you know?”.
Ethanol will go bad so, so easily.
All gas is different now than it was when these cars were new. I’ll put in a plug for John Cislak, he rebuilt the carb and fuel pump on my ’31 phaeton, made some jet adjustments for the new gas, I’ll tell you, it’s a different car….sounds better, more power, the whole bit….a real difference…..
The casting of the manifolds is only half the battle, too. Then the machine work has to be done, and it’s a very tricky shape to work with. I have a repro exhaust manifold on my ’31 (from the ones that were made a long time ago, 30+ years I believe)and remember the machine work was a challenge…..
Oh OK, for some reason I had in my head that Buffalo production ceased in the late oughts or early teens….thanks! Appreciate all the comments. I have three other early bikes, two girls and one Special Racer, all which date to slightly before or after 1900. One of the girl’s bikes is a very nice original, pictured. I should take off that light and put on the Geo. N. Pierce light I found. I’ve been looking for a “regular” men’s bike and thought this might be it, but I’ll still be looking for an earlier men’s bike. Thanks!
Thanks, Paul, for information. It would be disappointing to me to find out that this is a 1912 or later bike, as I really like collecting Buffalo Pierce items, and I believe 1912 would put this as an Angola bike.
The head badge does appear to be original, though, and riveted in place (or drive screw?) I realize that in 100 years or more a lot of things can be changed and modified.
I casually looked for serial number, will look again more closely. Thanks for information! David Coco Winchester Va.
Neat, thanks for picture of Troxel seat!
Yes, imagined new, and with padding and new leather, it would have been sufficient to keep your asking comfortable….
and the bike, partially put together. Steel rims and has fenders, so guessing early to mid 19-oughts…..still looking for serial number
Here’s the seat, doubt it’s Pierce but aftermarket, pretty large….
I bought it, for less than half of what that old Ebay posting was asking. It’s a very nice bike, early 1900’s, that was disassembled but more or less carefully kept together. I received it just today, it’s a real Buffalo bike, very complete and very interesting. I have looked at a lot of bicycles, and the one constant is that I refuse to consider one that has screws attaching the Pierce badge. This one has the original rivets. I intend to reassemble and keep it original, that’s how early bikes should be..as far as the story, no way to verify, but I can tell you that this bike is not abused and has been kept inside, so someone did a great job of keeping a 110+ year bike saved for us..I’m fascinated by the seat, which has some original leather, and had a thin wood veneer base over the substantial springs…
Nice! Progress, thanks for update!
If you use real cork, not a glued together composite, there is no need to seal the cork against gasoline. It naturally will not significantly absorb the liquid.
I realize that this is a hard sell, but it’s true, and it’s why cork is used in so many applications to seal liquid containers. Cork is unique in that it has a very tight cell structure, and those cells are small and filled with air, thus any absorption is greatly minimized.
In the overall cost of things, I know it doesn’t matter, but just for reference: repainting a plate devalues it to a license plate collector. Most such collectors prefer original paint on the plate, even if not in perfect condition. Someone putting YOM plates on a car may not care, of course.
If you can find a nice set of plates, consider using them unrestored, there’s character in that patina!
The trials and tribulations of a restoration are well known to everyone on this forum. It’s an interesting experience of project management, patience, accounting, patience, coordination of trades, and last but not least, patience.
I have a friend that owed me a favor, he said he’d rebuild an engine for me, for free, I just had to pay for parts. It took seven (yes, 7) years for me to get the engine back completed. Whew, as they say, give me patience and I want it RIGHT NOW!
