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Oh OK, for some reason I had in my head that Buffalo production ceased in the late oughts or early teens….thanks! Appreciate all the comments. I have three other early bikes, two girls and one Special Racer, all which date to slightly before or after 1900. One of the girl’s bikes is a very nice original, pictured. I should take off that light and put on the Geo. N. Pierce light I found. I’ve been looking for a “regular” men’s bike and thought this might be it, but I’ll still be looking for an earlier men’s bike. Thanks!

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Thanks, Paul, for information. It would be disappointing to me to find out that this is a 1912 or later bike, as I really like collecting Buffalo Pierce items, and I believe 1912 would put this as an Angola bike.

The head badge does appear to be original, though, and riveted in place (or drive screw?) I realize that in 100 years or more a lot of things can be changed and modified.

I casually looked for serial number, will look again more closely. Thanks for information! David Coco Winchester Va.

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Neat, thanks for picture of Troxel seat!

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Yes, imagined new, and with padding and new leather, it would have been sufficient to keep your asking comfortable….

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and the bike, partially put together. Steel rims and has fenders, so guessing early to mid 19-oughts…..still looking for serial number

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Here’s the seat, doubt it’s Pierce but aftermarket, pretty large….

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I bought it, for less than half of what that old Ebay posting was asking. It’s a very nice bike, early 1900’s, that was disassembled but more or less carefully kept together. I received it just today, it’s a real Buffalo bike, very complete and very interesting. I have looked at a lot of bicycles, and the one constant is that I refuse to consider one that has screws attaching the Pierce badge. This one has the original rivets. I intend to reassemble and keep it original, that’s how early bikes should be..as far as the story, no way to verify, but I can tell you that this bike is not abused and has been kept inside, so someone did a great job of keeping a 110+ year bike saved for us..I’m fascinated by the seat, which has some original leather, and had a thin wood veneer base over the substantial springs…

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Nice! Progress, thanks for update!

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If you use real cork, not a glued together composite, there is no need to seal the cork against gasoline. It naturally will not significantly absorb the liquid.

I realize that this is a hard sell, but it’s true, and it’s why cork is used in so many applications to seal liquid containers. Cork is unique in that it has a very tight cell structure, and those cells are small and filled with air, thus any absorption is greatly minimized.

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In the overall cost of things, I know it doesn’t matter, but just for reference: repainting a plate devalues it to a license plate collector. Most such collectors prefer original paint on the plate, even if not in perfect condition. Someone putting YOM plates on a car may not care, of course.

If you can find a nice set of plates, consider using them unrestored, there’s character in that patina!

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The trials and tribulations of a restoration are well known to everyone on this forum. It’s an interesting experience of project management, patience, accounting, patience, coordination of trades, and last but not least, patience.

I have a friend that owed me a favor, he said he’d rebuild an engine for me, for free, I just had to pay for parts. It took seven (yes, 7) years for me to get the engine back completed. Whew, as they say, give me patience and I want it RIGHT NOW!

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That sedan is stunning. I’ve never been a fan of clear coat, but hard to argue with the look of that paint job. And, as one who’s owned a V-12, there’s nothing to compare with the power and feel of same.

Fabulous car, am sure it will find a good home……

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Agree, thanks for updates on progress.

We all want to do restorations quickly so that we might enjoy driving the cars, but remember, the best laid plans of mice and men aft gang aglay….

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You can use Quik-Poly to seal wood that has rotten, it would be very acceptable on a small area. West System, which is used on boats, is also a two part epoxy, but doesn’t seem to have the soaking power of Quik-Poly.

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I had the same problem with my ’31 phaeton, driving along was fine, when you backed off gas water would overflow.

I took a metal freeze plug the same diameter as the inside diameter of the top radiator hose, drilled a 5/8 inch hole in it, and installed in the upper hose right at the inlet to top radiator tank. This slows down the water flow to top tank, eliminates the run over, and doesn’t hamper cooling.

If your radiator water is foaming, the cause is usually air being pulled through the seal at water pump. Make sure the packing is sufficient and packing nut drawn down correctly, and check your water pump grease (as it helps seal the shaft also). Make sure to use actual water pump grease, as it won’t be “washed away”” like regular grease.”

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Sorry if I was seemingly mysterious! 1910 Reo, pictured…

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Well, shucks, never thought of the ring issue with tire going flat….now I’ll have to dig them out and install, I need to change 3 of the lock rings anyway, I have 3 Pierce rings and 3 Studebaker rings on the car now, and they are different at the open part. I do have three correct rings to go on the car thanks to a great member of the PAS, though!

And no, the Studebaker rims aren’t available, they’re owed to my Louisiana friend Mr. Smith…..

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Thanks, Karl, interesting back story, I’d sure get some cast if I had the casting pattern….missed that auction completely!

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The “Great Arrow” that started this thread was an artwork that had a very high price tag for a modern piece….I agree that an original Great Arrow should be worth a lot, at least half a zillion…

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I have a set, not yet installed, that are cast brass. I believe these were reproduced sometime in the last 20 years.

I realize they should be on the car for safety, but I’ve run the car for over 30 years without them with no problems so far.

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