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See if this loads……1936 144 inch wb. Factory photo with wires…….Tony, so you think only coupes and Convertiable Coupe’s had wires?

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I have a factory photo of a V-12 with wire wheels on it somewhere.

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Wire wheels were available in 1936, 37, and 38 on all series cars, 8 & 12, on all wheelbases. I have factory photos of them, but most of the photos are not on my computer. Pierce Arrow usually offered several options on wheels, and often one see unusual things such as aTony mentioned about like very late model split rims, which I also have come across on another very late Series car. I also have a factory letter from the late era, talking about how they will not guarantee chrome on the special order chrome wire wheels, as they were having issues with it peeling on some cars. Also, although I no longer have them, wheel covers were offered and sold. I think they look very nice, and quickly change the look of the car. Someone offered me a crazy amount of money for my unrestored factory wheel disks, so I sold them twenty years ago as I was building my house……I regret selling them now.

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The factory filter set up was restricted in the inlet fitting. It was machined and produced as one would expect, hard to find item today, so soldering in a pill and drilling it out is reasonable.

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The production silver arrow is now marked as sold on the mecum site……no price listed.

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I saw a Bronco sell for 135k. Go figure on what people think value is. Fact is most people should consult an expert before they put their car into an auction. Trust me, most cars that the PAS members like don’t do well at auctions. Ed

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The auction venue for those cars was asinine. Send you car to a dog of an auction, and very poor results is what you get. We were betting among ourselves how had the cars would fall flat. No surprises in the results. They are a very nice group of people running the museum. The sale was an adjustment of inventory, they actually are expanding and displaying more cars now, and into the future. I am quite sure they will do well in the future. The venue for the sale……company and location was a mistake.

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Thats it…..my computer skills are poor, and I don’t know how to post a link on an Apple.

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I think they fit 29-32 and 33 to 38. No longer being made as far as I know. Cislak had used ones at Hershey this year.

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Richard…..It was clearly understood. Wait till the guys introduce you to another tradition among the regulars at the meet….the key swap………..

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Richard……way back in 1990 when I painted my 1936 V-12 Club Sedan a rather bright blue………quite a few of the old time founding members disapproved. It’s approaching thirty years later and I still like the color and wouldn’t change a thing. Adding “bolt on” accessories is always fine. Even if you need to drill a few holes in the tin, they are easily closed and not trace remains in the future……..no problem! When people start cutting down windshields, changing the shape of their convertible top, ect……..tats where things get out of hand. I think most of the comments are posted NOT to be critical, but make new members aware a new total restoration that is well done my not be competitive for a trophy at the meets because of authenticity deductions. I don’t have a photo of it, but my 1936 car has some rather glaring 1935 parts on it……because I like it that way. And yes……I had to drill some extra holes. The Pierce Arrow Society is much more like a family than a car club, and most everyone looks out for everyone else……that’s what makes this club so much better than the rest. I have belonged to lots of clubs over the years, and now only have membership in four of them. The PAS is the best club in the hobby. I can assure you all of us are looking forward to seeing your car………..Ask Robert Brown about the friendly advice and comments he received when he brought his 29 roadster out for the first time……..he was smiling as people were helping him out with all the correct hardware and bits. Ed

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Also, remember that if you have a mouse nest, acorns, or other organic things in the radiator from mice, the Evapo Rust won’t help at all. Often times its both problems. I have found when you have the mouse issue, no matter what you try, you will end up pulling the head, water jacket, and radiator.

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I have not seen the “other” product. Having had great success with the standard product, I shall stick with it. Again it’s not a cure all, but will help in many instances. Also, if your going to be cleaning out the block, head, and radiator, by removing the water jacket cover, head, and radiator, it will greatly reduce time, effort and mess. I have taken an undrivable car and been able to use it for several seasons. I would call that a success. The car I ran it in extensively had the block and head looking like it was shot blasted on the inside after using it an entire summer. Also, when I finally took the car apart, back flushing the radiator was much easier than normal….and much less likely to cause a radiator leak from back flushing. The chemical reaction removes rust by attaching to the oxygen molecules in the rust, There are a lot of other similar chemicals that will do the same thing for a lot less money, but can damage paint. Thus I spend the money on the over the counter product.

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Richard……most of my cars don’t even have a real plate on them. I have custom plates made up in the state and number I want, in the colors I want. And I drive in one or two depending on the car, the real plates are kept in the trunk of glove box. Over the years I’ve been pulled over , stopped on the side of the road , and pulled over for going to a red light. None of the times that happened at the cop ever ask me about it incorrect plate even though they have my registration. Most of the time the cops just can’t be bothered.

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I have run it for an entire season in one of my older Restorations that had rust/overheating/pushing water/ issues. It solved 80 percent of my issues, made the car drivable for two or three seasons till I had time to pull the head, water jacket, and radiator. At the time I just was intrested in driving the car before I tore into it. Now on ALL my new purchases I drain what ever the car had for coolant in it, weather or not it has issues, and run the EVAPO RUST in it for a few months,,,,,,,it can’t hurt, and often it sure does help. I can say for certain it is a worthwhile endeavor for any car with overheating issues related to partially blocked radiators, heads, and water jackets. I keep ten gallons in stock in my shop at all times. I have been doing this a long time, it’s not a miracle solution to all your problems, but it will make improvements to any car with cooling issues. Ed

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Richard……I like your car, and how you add accessories is and should be entirely up to you. I like the round splash apron light on your car, the spears on a 29 for ME are a little too much, but make it your car the way YOU like it. It’s not impossible that someone would have asked for them two years later. Interestingly I have a car in the garage that had documented special order splash apron light on each side with a colored lens……then another was added less than a year later for two lights one red, one blue on the side……..we have the documentation in photos and writing on the car……along with a BUNCH of other MAJOR changes done in thr first three years by the original owner. Early in my collecting I liked to add stuff to my cars…..after many years, my taste had matured and I now prefer the simple clean look of a factory floor car.

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No Model 43 cars from 1931 ever came with the lights or Spears that I am aware of. Model 42 had the round lights,but many didn’t have any spears………..and I have been studying them for forty years. Again, almost every car 1931 and earlier didn’t come with spears, a very few did, but everyone jumped on the bandwagon and put them on in the early 60’s. While I don’t mind people dressing up their car as they see fit with correct era appropriate items, I can tell you this for certain……..take a car to Pebble Beach and get asked about a splash apron light or any spears, you better have documentation and photos to PROVE it correct, or your going home empty handed. For years people have been adding sidemount covers, mirrors, spot lights, Tripp lights, pilate rays , trunks, step pads, spears, Stone guards, the list is endless……BUT today’s trend is to go back to the pure look of a car in the showroom. I could go on for pages, but the era of the circus wagon are over. Nice suttle and refund upgrades are fine……and appropriate, but the junked up jewelry with incorrect period colors will NOT get you invited to the big shows………IF YOU CARE ABOUT SUCH THINGS! And many people don’t. Remember this is supposed to be FUN! I am intrested in historically accurate cars…..but slight variations for a new owner or a new restoration should be tolerated in the spirit of fair play. And yes……I have some incorrect items on my cars that would not have been done in the era…….It is after all my car…….and during judging I was deducted….AS IT SHOULD BE! And I have no issues with the judges decision.

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You place the flow restriction in the fitting on the oil filter, on the inlet side of course. John Cislak makes the filters. Look in thr last PAS publication, they were for sale in it. Ed

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As usual, Greg is 100 percent correct.

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Sorry my computer changed the spelling on Evapo Rust.

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