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Greg is 100% correct with the above post. I have nothing to add.
There is such a thing as a correct Pierce trunk. Many dealers used an after market supply company instead of the trunks offered by the factory supply system. I have paper work showing the Boston dealer having his own lap robes made for six dollars less then the dealer robes. Car dealers were cheap back then as they still are today. Interestingly, I have purchased several Pierce cars over the years and they had a Packard trunk on them. My series 42 came to me that way. I am sure someone can post a photo of the dealer supplied trunk.
I’ll add a little bit to the hard start when hot stories. Last year John Cislak and I worked on a V-12 that had a hard start & slow crank when warm issue. We did everything you could think of and we made some improvment but still didn’t fix it. Both of us worked on it for countless hours. Ia an act of desperation we contacted the best starter and generator man in the USA. In about an hour and a half the problem was determined. In the long distant past the starter nose cone broke off and was welded back on. It was ok cold and worked fine, when the starter got hot, the welding on the nose pulled the cone out of alignment and thus the starter was binding only whil very hot. It was impossible to see the repair with the paint on the starter. The guy we had helping us had seen it before. These cars can make you want to pull your hair out with crazy issues like this. Ed.
Hi Jim, I have installed 4 sets that I can remember. Three were 6 volt positive ground. The kits were “direct fit” according to the Pertronix people and fit fine. They started first try, I set the timing, and that was the end of it. On a Pierce eight it is simple and not an issue. When we ran the set’s on a car we ordered wire loom from a restoration supply to cover the modern wires. As I remember we made up a small grommet to go into the distributor to help hide the set up. When finished I don’t think anyone would be able to tell. That way the owner didn’t have to talk about it if he didn’t want too. Overall I would say they are fine as far as reliability goes. If you have a misfire I am not sure how the very high 6 volt KV’s would treat the solid state electronics. Just make sure your cap, rotor, wires, and plugs are all perfect and there should be no issues. If you decide to run a Pertronix why not post photos and comments on the process? It would make a good read on the site. Happy New Year! Ed
I think today collectors taste have shifted to mostly what is correct from the era. The circus wagon days are just about gone.
Looks good! Keep the photos coming!
Tim, I see you have a 66-E. Nice truck. I do understand your question with the dual distributor set up. It’s a complicated system and if you have lots of years under your belt, I would only rate it as terribly difficult! Often a 37 66-E has had lots of changes and upgrades done over the years. You only need one set of plugs to run the truck. If it were mine I would find a V-12 mag and change it over to that set up. They are rare but I do see them once in a while. I thought it would be cool to have a mag on a street car just to mess with some of the members. Hey……it IS factory! I have helped several fire truck owners over the years with the dual distributor set up. Post a few photos of the distributors you are running, as most members have not seen them. My best, Ed
For me it comes down to is it an antique car or not? I like the idea my 36 Pierce is the way it was when new. Nothing more, nothing less. I don’t run radial tires, modern shocks, 12 volt electrical system, more modern Zenith carbs, ect. I Like the challenge of running and maintaining a car that’s 80 years old. Yes, it can be time consuming and frustrating. That’s part of the fun. At what point is it a street rod? How about disk brakes for safety, and air conditioning and power steering it make driving easier? I guess the mystique and mystery of operating a complicated V-12 machine appeals to me. The kinship of my fellow PAS members and the purity of the cars is what makes our club the best. Just a Pertronix unit is not the end of the world on a car that’s on a tour. But how about the guys who take the time and money to keep and preserve the torch of the hobby going? I’m ok with high speed gears, but not a fan of aftermarket over drives or splitters. We all have to take our own path, for me I live by the creed “KEEP IT STOCK””. My best to all. Ed Minnie”
Ok, here is a peek at John’s new toy. A 29 7 passenger with all factory paint and chrome. The wire wheels have been repainted. Inside it’s as nice as I have ever seen. I’ll post more photos in a few days.
I must confess, all the weight loss has affected me in many unusual ways. I recently bought this car home. I always wanted a 1915 Pierce Arrow touring car. It was a “steal” for a Pierce open car. It isn’t quite as fast as I thought it would be. And for some reason I can’t figure how to use the self starter. And it seems to have a few extra foot controls. Any comments would be helpful. (Yes, I really did buy this car.)
Why, I have 18,000 miles on my points and condensers on my 36 V12 over the last 20 years. About 5 years ago I removed the distributor and put it on my Sun distributor machine. It was where I set it back in 1994. The car if set up correctly will run and start fine on the points. If you battery is week on the Pertronix it will under volt the system and not start. The Pertronix is a solution in search of a problem that doesn’t exist. I have installed several of them for customers in the past. They work fine. If the Pertronix burns out on you on the side of the road you have no chance of running again. Points and condenser are easy to service. The location of the distributor on a Pierce means it’s difficult at best to service anytime. I have a spare restored distributor in a box I carry when on tour. Well…….I use to carry it. I am so sure of my set up now I no longer bring it with me on tour. It is in a box ready to be over night mailed if I ever need it. If you want a spare distributor to keep on hand or in the car let me know, I have several extras and would be happy to sell one. A Pierce V-12 distributor is the most difficult one ever put in a car to get set up correctly if you don’t understand all the issues involved. Properly set up you can remove one distributor and install another in less then three minuets on the side of the road. You could never deal with a Pertronix unit in less than two or three hours. A good spare is the way to go, it’s better, faster, and cheaper. Ed.
It is a modification of a 1990 Mazda blue. Some people think it’s too much. I still like it more than 20 years later. At least four or five more cars have copied what I did, and now blue seems to be going out of style.
Can’t spill the beans just yet, but if it comes to pass I will post a photo of the car when we get it. I will admit to this…… we landed what may be the most important Pierce to come out of the garage in the past 40 years. It’s going to make a great Arrow story so I will play my half a deck of cards I’m playing with close to the vest. It’s been an interesting fall looking at cars. John Cislak bought what must be one of the best all original cars in the club, a 29 7 passenger. I’ll post photos next week.
That’s what is great abput P-A’s. There is the rule, and then the cars that are breaking the rules. I would be sure to keep a copy of that PASB in the car for judging. Another thing I learned today!
Just upload it to youtube and post a link. We also make movies of the first start up of an engine. The last one we did was a Pierce 12 and it hadn’t run since before the war!
It’s hard to imagine someone would paint a Pierce sedan in this color blue. But there is no accounting for taste. I agree with the posters above. Paint it the way you like it. Twenty years later and I still like the blue on my sedan. We tried seven shades before we got it right……according to me!
Jim, I agree you may want to look at the 29 and 30 touring cars that are finished, it’s nice to have a color that sets the car off from the crowd. Ed.
Yhe 32 has a freewheeling unit on the back of the trans. It operates with a dash lever. The 31 unit has the chrome button on top of the shifter with the rod running down the side of the lever. The 32 shifts much easier than the 31.
1930 did not offer free wheeling. That looks like a regular 30 three speed to me. The shifting fork is fine, they all look like that. Be sure to replace the detent springs while you have the cover off. Good luck, Ed
Hi Jim, we just bought another touring car. While talking to some of the Pebble Beach judges they commented…………..PLEASE don’t paint it maroon or silver………..we sure are tired of those colors!. While I paint my cars any color I please, and anyone who has seen my 36 1602 club sedan will agree…….. there are a lot of cars out there in that color. While I think most 29’s should be conservative and tasteful, many people do the earth tones and they look very good. Most importantly, paint it the way you like it. Good luck, Ed.
