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The last decent large cap Imsaw sold back three years ago for 1500. There was no rotor with it. The early large caps have been hard to find for more than 25 years. It’s a very difficult to find part in good condition. You can buy a Studebaker cap that works fine, but looks much different. If I owned a 1930 Series C I would put the correct smaller distributor on it. Much less expensive. What series is the car? Has it ever been established?
The joys of owning a Pierce Arrow…….so many models, so many modifications, and so many reproduction parts make for an interesting permutations! To be honest, between all the Pierce’s I have owned and worked on, and add in all the current car restoration projects we have going, it’s getting harder to remember the details of cars I repaired less than a year ago. Recently someone reminded me I did a clutch on a Stutz in the last 18 months…….and I had forgotten about it…….and I did the entire job in house. So now besides my hair falling out, I can’t remember a rather large job in the recent past.
236 S 1218 is the body number, and it should be on the passenger side cowl or door sill. The engine number is on the block just below the head in the center on the drivers side. The chassis plate can be on either side in the front on the frame behind the wheels. The chassis tag is often missing. I would rather have the car titled by the engine number than the body number.
I believe that what you see as a step plate is not an actual step plate. It’s a a mat to clean your shoes before you get into the car, usually made of coconut husk or kapok.
1932 Club Brougham is on my got to have before I cash in list. Interestingly, it is the most common Pierce Arrow to survive….at last count there were almost fifty of them surviving.
Bill, I didn’t understand you wanted the steering wheel center assembly levers………was reading when I was sleepy. Casting them will be very difficult, as the have to be dimensionally accurate across several areas. You would need to do lost wax after you adjusted for shrinkage…….very difficult. I may know where there is an entire steering column with whee that’s good, I’ll inquire about it for you. Last time I needed to find the knobs, we machined them out of solid brass……..you don’t want to know how much time and money we had in them…….Ed
Peter, I have also been told good thing about him.
Call Greg Long…….if he doesn’t have it, no one does.
Before you make anything, you first need to understand demand, and the willingness of people to pay for it. Lots of people need items, but are not willing to lay money out. I expect you can find what your looking for for a lot less time, money, and aggravation than making them. Quality castings are not common today, as there are lots of people trying to do thing without the understanding or willingness to get it right. A poor casting could be five or seven hours of work to clean up, and thus an original part even if “expensive†is a much better value. I have never seen a want ad for the knobs, and my best guess is you can find a set with just a few phone calls. Post some photos, someone may have some spares and do t know what they are or what they fit.
Ken, be careful with changing covers, often the clearance is so small you can get arcing and melt the whole thing down. I carry Brillman cutouts as back up for tours. They look modern so I only run them as a temporary repair. Brillman also makes a solid state diode unit, which I have on thr shelf, but have not tried. Be sure you battery is fully charged, and has the correct water level in it before you install the new cut out. Never use the generator to charge a very low battery.
Years ago Kiepich exhaust sold systems, that were close, but not correct. The mufflers were undersize as far as diameter and a bit short. Pipes were done on a bender and pinched the pipes. They should be mandrel bent, but it would be expensive.
Supply and demand will determine its fate. Market conditions at any given time can add or take away cars. I suspect one of two options will occur. Either parts/rod or a new to the hobby dreamer. Any other option is unlikely.
It’s a rather rare, and good looking car. It’s a great driving platform compared to many others. Today, it’s all supply and demand. There is a large supply of project cars across the board……..Cadillac,Packard,Lincoln, to name a few, and almost no one is looking for projects, it’s the new reality. Well running and sorted cars, even if the cosmetics are not perfect sell, but the days of many prospective owners willing to gamble on a non running car and ended up with a mess of a project are few and far between.
It’s a rare book. I haven’t seen one for sale in more than ten years.
It’s a five thousand dollar car. On a good day, if you want it. Car is a mess, and doesn’t run. If it were mine I would cut it up for parts.
It’s just a header pipe to a long round muffler, then a long tail pipe. Cislak makes correct factory replacement exhaust hangers. Give him a call.
According to information provided to me, as 10k asking opening bid was requested, and no bids were offered. I agree that 10k was too much given the car and condition.
I agree, need to identify John’s car…….photos of car and the numbers please.
I sent a PM to John. The Series C has a different distributor, cap, rotor, and points. They are available.
They are both alive and well. Both have had extensive repair and restoration. The Series 42 is in a museum in Saratoga Ny three years ago. The series 43 is in a private collection.
