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Our prayers are with Greg.  Get well soon.

Dave

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David,  Thank you for sharing the “secrets” I really appreciate it.  I looked at the tubes and one has a dent in it that may cause the shade to roll up incorrectly.  I will make sure that I try and get that fixed.

Take care,

Dave

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Hello,

I wanted to give y’all an update on the trans noise.  I have been driving the car this spring and the scraping noise that I thought was coming from the trans has not happened.  So it probably was coming from another source.  The noise was occurring anytime the car was over about 5 mph in any gear.  I have had a couple of rough shifts where it bangs into gear or I have trouble finding the gears this spring on occasion.  Prior to the recent trips I had run it on jack stands and could not hear the noise.  The rough shifts this spring could caused be me and/or things getting worn in.

I had some time so I decided to open up the transmission based on the rough shifting and the previously noise concern.  All seemed well with the gear box and shifter visually(please see the pictures). There wasn’t any metal chips in the lube.  I was glad to see that!!! The gear oil I use is GL-1 (140 weight).

I have not had problems with it staying in any of the gears I select when I drive it just difficulty at times getting it into different gears on occasion.

Next steps are to put it back together and run it and hopefully get it to Hickory Corners in August for the annual meet.

Thank you all for your previous comments.

Dave

 

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I wanted to give y’all an update.  I ran the car yesterday on jack stands.  I ran it in all gears at various speeds.  There was noise or unusual vibrations. I am going to run it on the road after the next rain and the salt is gone for a road test to see if I can pin point the source provided it is still making the noise.

Dave

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Thank you very much Herb for your advice.  I will check into your 4 recommendations and keep you posted on what I find.  I have the carpet and floor out and hope to get back to it later this week when I have some help.

Take care,

Dave

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Hello Mark, Thanks for your reply.  My thought was to only run the car on car stands for a short interval without lube in the transmission box but have the gears with a slight amount of lube on them and the surrounding area well covered.  I had seen it done with a farm tractor years ago.  My guess is that the forks are bent and the cause of the noise.  I hope to run it on wheel stands first and then take the tower off to see better what’s going on.  I want to be certain that the forks are actually bent before i try and bend them and I’m also not real sure how far to bend them. Probably will be a trial and error situation.  That said It will probably be clearer once i tie into it.  I will keep you posted.

Take care,

Dave

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Hello Peter and PA members,

I have not got back to the transmission but now that its hopefully warming up I will be able to.

Just curious if anyone has run the engine with the shifter tower off?  Not sure if it would hurt the transmission but it would confirm that the shifter is bent if the noise goes away when the top assembly is removed.

Take care,

Dave

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Thanks Carl I appreciate the advice.

Dave

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Thanks Rick I appreciate your advice!  Happy Motoring to you and Merry Christmas to you.

Dave

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Thanks Tom

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Bill did you find any door handles?

Dave

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Hi Jim and Carl,

I am feeling a lot better about the oil pressure.  I ended up making a lighter spring work that I had from  a spring assortment.  The idle pressure is now 22 psig and the revved up pressure is 40 psig.  The engine is running very  smoothly!!!  I will keep an eye on the pressure though using a temporary gage.  Thank you for your help I really appreciate it.  Please see the spring comparison.  I also installed the spot light.

Take care,

Dave

 

 

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Thanks Jim and Carl,

The oil used is what John Cislak had recommended a number of years ago.  He liked it because it has zinc. (Valoline racing 20W50 high zinc)

The oil pressure was high with the piston and spring in regardless of if it was adjusted all the way in or out.

The pressure was zero with the piston and the spring removed.  Makes me wonder if the piston is so long that the relief port is covered.

I plan on taking the piston out and measuring it and I will give John a call to see if its the correct one.

The spring I did purchase from John so I am comfortable that its the correct one.

I will keep you posted.

Dave

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Thank you for your input.  Today I disassembled the pressure relief/regulator.  It came apart as it should and the piston slid out easily with the assistance of small magnet.  There were no burs or particulates found.  The oil is new Valvoline Racing oil 20W50 with Zinc.   I also ran the engine with out the piston and spring in.  The pressure remained at zero.  I used a gage that goes to 500 psi.  I put relief back together and found that the oil pressure is still very hi 100 psi at idle and almost 300 revved up. The pump is dead heading.  I plan on next removing the oil lines and using air pressure to see where the blockage might be.  My guess is that the shop that rebuilt the engine put something together incorrectly.  Could it be a part was wrong as this car was a complete basket case and a part from say a Model C was mixed in the pile.  The shop did rebuild Pierce engines and other vintage motors and they say they still do.  They are now under new ownership though.  Im not comfortable bringing it back to them as I may get similar results.  Any thoughts are as always greatly appreciated.  BTW using a fiber optic camera I could see that the relief hole back to the oil pan is at about 5 o’clock when looking at the pressure relief. The inlet to the pressure relief is as shown in the parts manual.

Dave

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Hello Jim,  Thank you for your reply.  I was wondering about the pressure relief piston too.  I took the cap and spring off but I am not sure how to move the piston in and out to see if it is stuck.  The piston is below the frame rail. If you have any thoughts on getting to the piston I would appreciate them.

Dave

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Gentlemen,

I wanted to let you know that your help is appreciated.  I received my rebuilt wiper from Clean Sweep today and it seems to work fine after Melissa’s rebuild.  She turn it around very quickly.  I am still looking for a replacement for one that is not rebuildable so i have another good reason to go to the swap meets and car shows this summer.

Take care,

Dave

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Hi Jim,

I talked to David Ficken.  I mentioned that it was recommended that I talk to him about the wiper motors and rebuilding them for my ’30 Model B sedan.  He said he had bad news and experiences with the type of motor in that particular car.  Long story short is that he says they are not rebuildable due to the pot metal. He also said that they are hard to find. I attached a picture of mine.  The one on the left fits as it should.  The one on the right does not and has broken flanges where it would be fastened to the wood. The shaft is also longer.  I dont know the history because I didn’t take the car apart. His suggestion was to save my money and use Rainex.  Note the one that fits can be manually operated he said that would be good enough.  The one on the left that doesn’t fit is not manually operated.

There are some swap meets coming up so I will probably try and find a motor like on the left so I have something to hang the wiper blade on.  Or if any one has a working or not motor like the one on the left please let me know.

Take care,

Dave

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Meant to also say and use Rainex.

Dave

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Gentlemen thank you for your direction.  I will give it another go with trying to rebuild and get Mr. Fichens involved.  I really appreciate your help.

Dave

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Thank you for your responses. The positive ground LED lights work fine if I go directly from the negative battery terminal.  The lights are single wire so no brakes just turn signals as shown in the diagram below. The LED lights are positive ground as is the car. The kit is shown negative ground unfortunately. The Flasher from the kit is a 535.  If I connect it up as shown in the diagram nothing happens.  I tried removing the incandescent bulb in turn signal lever.  I also added ballast 50W 6 V resistors in parallel to the lights with out success.  The lights do work with out the resistor as mentioned above. I am willing to pitch this kit for something else if theres one that would be a better fit.  Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

Best regards,

Dave

 

 

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