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Hi Jim and Carl,

I am feeling a lot better about the oil pressure.  I ended up making a lighter spring work that I had from  a spring assortment.  The idle pressure is now 22 psig and the revved up pressure is 40 psig.  The engine is running very  smoothly!!!  I will keep an eye on the pressure though using a temporary gage.  Thank you for your help I really appreciate it.  Please see the spring comparison.  I also installed the spot light.

Take care,

Dave

 

 

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Thanks Jim and Carl,

The oil used is what John Cislak had recommended a number of years ago.  He liked it because it has zinc. (Valoline racing 20W50 high zinc)

The oil pressure was high with the piston and spring in regardless of if it was adjusted all the way in or out.

The pressure was zero with the piston and the spring removed.  Makes me wonder if the piston is so long that the relief port is covered.

I plan on taking the piston out and measuring it and I will give John a call to see if its the correct one.

The spring I did purchase from John so I am comfortable that its the correct one.

I will keep you posted.

Dave

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Thank you for your input.  Today I disassembled the pressure relief/regulator.  It came apart as it should and the piston slid out easily with the assistance of small magnet.  There were no burs or particulates found.  The oil is new Valvoline Racing oil 20W50 with Zinc.   I also ran the engine with out the piston and spring in.  The pressure remained at zero.  I used a gage that goes to 500 psi.  I put relief back together and found that the oil pressure is still very hi 100 psi at idle and almost 300 revved up. The pump is dead heading.  I plan on next removing the oil lines and using air pressure to see where the blockage might be.  My guess is that the shop that rebuilt the engine put something together incorrectly.  Could it be a part was wrong as this car was a complete basket case and a part from say a Model C was mixed in the pile.  The shop did rebuild Pierce engines and other vintage motors and they say they still do.  They are now under new ownership though.  Im not comfortable bringing it back to them as I may get similar results.  Any thoughts are as always greatly appreciated.  BTW using a fiber optic camera I could see that the relief hole back to the oil pan is at about 5 o’clock when looking at the pressure relief. The inlet to the pressure relief is as shown in the parts manual.

Dave

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Hello Jim,  Thank you for your reply.  I was wondering about the pressure relief piston too.  I took the cap and spring off but I am not sure how to move the piston in and out to see if it is stuck.  The piston is below the frame rail. If you have any thoughts on getting to the piston I would appreciate them.

Dave

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Gentlemen,

I wanted to let you know that your help is appreciated.  I received my rebuilt wiper from Clean Sweep today and it seems to work fine after Melissa’s rebuild.  She turn it around very quickly.  I am still looking for a replacement for one that is not rebuildable so i have another good reason to go to the swap meets and car shows this summer.

Take care,

Dave

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Hi Jim,

I talked to David Ficken.  I mentioned that it was recommended that I talk to him about the wiper motors and rebuilding them for my ’30 Model B sedan.  He said he had bad news and experiences with the type of motor in that particular car.  Long story short is that he says they are not rebuildable due to the pot metal. He also said that they are hard to find. I attached a picture of mine.  The one on the left fits as it should.  The one on the right does not and has broken flanges where it would be fastened to the wood. The shaft is also longer.  I dont know the history because I didn’t take the car apart. His suggestion was to save my money and use Rainex.  Note the one that fits can be manually operated he said that would be good enough.  The one on the left that doesn’t fit is not manually operated.

There are some swap meets coming up so I will probably try and find a motor like on the left so I have something to hang the wiper blade on.  Or if any one has a working or not motor like the one on the left please let me know.

Take care,

Dave

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Meant to also say and use Rainex.

Dave

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Gentlemen thank you for your direction.  I will give it another go with trying to rebuild and get Mr. Fichens involved.  I really appreciate your help.

Dave

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Thank you for your responses. The positive ground LED lights work fine if I go directly from the negative battery terminal.  The lights are single wire so no brakes just turn signals as shown in the diagram below. The LED lights are positive ground as is the car. The kit is shown negative ground unfortunately. The Flasher from the kit is a 535.  If I connect it up as shown in the diagram nothing happens.  I tried removing the incandescent bulb in turn signal lever.  I also added ballast 50W 6 V resistors in parallel to the lights with out success.  The lights do work with out the resistor as mentioned above. I am willing to pitch this kit for something else if theres one that would be a better fit.  Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

Best regards,

Dave

 

 

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Thank you all very much.  I had this in the pile of parts and didnt realize that it was for until now.  I plan on having a new one made.  If anyone is interested I plan on seeing what it would take to get the programing done and laser cut new ones.

Take care

Dave

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Hi Karl,

Thanks for the reply.  This is the short arm off the steering gear box.  It is splined and does not have a cotter pin.  Kind of makes me nervous not to have a pin.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

 

Dave

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Jim as one of the Daves I also appreciate your help and advice. Please keep in touch.

Happy New Year.

Dave

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David you might try Paul Jacobs. He made a number of them and they worked well for my ’30 Model B. Paul is listed as a member.

Dave

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Greg and Ken very sorry to hear about your loss.

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Ed you were spot on. The holes were covered by a leather card board like material. Thanks for your help!!!!

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I just finished the book. Thank you Roger for writing it. I found it to be well written and very informative.

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Ann and I had a fantastic time. It was our first meet. We thought it was a home run!!!! Thanks Greg, Ken and the board.

Dave

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Karl I installed the corners on my ’30 and I am very happy with how they turned out. Thanks for making them.

Dave

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Jim the oil pressure is 50 psi when the engine is cold or warm at idle. Seems to start and run very well.

Dave

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Very interesting discussion. I had my 1930 straight 8 rebuilt at a shop that specializes in rebuilds and was surprised that the oil pressure runs high 50 psi all the time. The car and motor were in a bunch of pieces “basket case”” when I started to put it together. The wear on the motor was minimal but I thought it would be a good idea to have it assembled by folks that work on motors routinely. The engine has about 4 hours run time total over two summers and the engine sounds very very good. I have changed the oil and have not found any thing that looks concerning. I have used Valvoline racing oil 10W30. I have backed the spring out as far as I think I can go and have tried a different oil pressure gage. Does any one have any thoughts or comments on if this is a problem or anything else I might try? Is this because the clearances are still tight?”

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