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Hi Craig the UUR-2 choke linkage pictures would be very helpful. The choke linkage is what I am working on putting back together. I have rebuilt the carb and it seems to work very well. Thanks in advance for the help.

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Jim, I emailed a few that might help that I took at the Gilmore PA museum. Give me a call and we can talk about them or I can send pictures of the parts that I think are rack parts from mine.

Dave

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Jim I have 4 good door pull loops i bought from Dave Murray(I think that’s what they are called). I have handles etc but they are in need of re-chroming. This seems like great alternative to look at. The rest I could use.If you could give me a call at 920-716-1706 and we can talk about it. Thanks in advance for your help.

Dave

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Jim should have mentioned its a 7 passenger.

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Jim we are restoring a 30 Model B and would be interested in door handles (inside and out. Window cranks too. What ever you have available. Thanks

Dave

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Ed do you recommend a good source for the wiper motors? Are they still vacuum? I went to Mac’s web site and saw the electric version.

Thanks

Dave

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Tom thanks so much for he help. Just curious if the bolted end is attached or does it move when the door is opened. we are putting together a car that someone else dismantled.

Dave

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Allen I am looking for a bar too. My car is missing it and I was thinking about Buying a brass tube from McMaster Carr. 5/8″, Part number 7782T47. Then get the tube plated. They sell it in 3 foot lengths. Not sure if that’s long enough because my PA was purchased in pieces. Can you confirm that 3′ is long enough?

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David could you check with your friends to verify the phone number. I have been trying 417-476-2871. i have left messages but no luck. Thanks

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Jim do you know about how thick the rubber pads are?

Dave

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Bill the upper bolt that is in the center of the picture needs to be loosened. Then you take a 2 inch wrench and turn the dark grey eccentric that hold the pulley shaft until the belts are firm. Firm being about 1/2 inch of play when you press on the belt. You then tighten the top bolt again.

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Greg I like your idea of running the line outside of the frame on the passenger side. Do you have a recommendation on where the line starting at the tank goes leaves so that its not affected by a stone that might impact it off the rear tire? Where specifically would you recommend going back in to the engine compartment to the mechanical pump?

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Jim on my 30 it was not pressed on but slides on the square. I wonder if you soaked the flange and the square if it would loosen up?

Dave

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Greg I do not have the Motors manual and would greatly appreciate it if you would be able to scan it. Thanks in advance.

Dave

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Thanks for the advice Ed. I did read and save Greg Longs post. Thanks also for raising the discussion as nothing is more important than steering and good brakes.

Dave

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My daughter and I are putting together a pile of parts that once done should be a 30 PA Model B. The steering gear is apart and looks good under a magnifying glass. The bearing is tight and does not have any play. Should we put it back together? Does not look like white metal but Im not sure how to tell with out damaging it. Any thoughts are appreciated.

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John I may have a set that is for a 29. They are the kind that have 5 studs off them. I can take some pics if thats the type you need.

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Hi Paul

I could use 4 of the wheel locks.

Thanks

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Thanks for all the input. I did learn that a 1930 Studebaker Commander has the wheel locks similar to the rusty ones in the picture. Seems like a number of folks need them and they seem like a good thing to have on as standard equipment.

Not really sure what holds them in place screw and a washer?

Not really sure what to do with the two shiny ones either.

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wheel ring

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