[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

David you might try Paul Jacobs. He made a number of them and they worked well for my ’30 Model B. Paul is listed as a member.

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Greg and Ken very sorry to hear about your loss.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Ed you were spot on. The holes were covered by a leather card board like material. Thanks for your help!!!!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I just finished the book. Thank you Roger for writing it. I found it to be well written and very informative.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Ann and I had a fantastic time. It was our first meet. We thought it was a home run!!!! Thanks Greg, Ken and the board.

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Karl I installed the corners on my ’30 and I am very happy with how they turned out. Thanks for making them.

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jim the oil pressure is 50 psi when the engine is cold or warm at idle. Seems to start and run very well.

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Very interesting discussion. I had my 1930 straight 8 rebuilt at a shop that specializes in rebuilds and was surprised that the oil pressure runs high 50 psi all the time. The car and motor were in a bunch of pieces “basket case”” when I started to put it together. The wear on the motor was minimal but I thought it would be a good idea to have it assembled by folks that work on motors routinely. The engine has about 4 hours run time total over two summers and the engine sounds very very good. I have changed the oil and have not found any thing that looks concerning. I have used Valvoline racing oil 10W30. I have backed the spring out as far as I think I can go and have tried a different oil pressure gage. Does any one have any thoughts or comments on if this is a problem or anything else I might try? Is this because the clearances are still tight?”

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Curtis i ordered the trim for my 30 Model B and i took a while over 6+ months. Several call were made and I left messages. I finally did get the trim and it looks very good. I think he is very busy. Good luck.

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Thanks for letting us know about this. I could use the material for my ’30.

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Randy I bought my wires and connectors from The Restoration Supply Company. 800-306-7008. The would not resistor type.

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Correction “The Brillman Company”””

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Thank you Greg and Ed,

To answer Greg’s question i was thinking about the electronic cut-out that The Brillion Company sells. The part number is #B8001-002. Its rated at 25 amps while their conventional cut-out is rated at 15amps. I was going to put a 15 amp fuse in series and also run it through one of the extra contacts that cuts-out the back up diaphragm priming fuel pump like what has been suggested in past bulletins. The fuel pump would also have an manual switch to shut if off but could only run if the key was turned on. I also like your idea of the “Greg” switch.

I have had the generator rebuilt and ran it last fall but want to get the dash back in before I run motor again. As usual I tend to over think this stuff a bit and have to be reined in once in a while.

Best regards,

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Greg how do you feel about replacing the cutout relay with a diode? I understand its not original but is it a safe alternative?

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Thank you gentlemen for the excellent direction. Looks like the chrome gauge bezels are like yours Jim as they are just inserted and the edges bent over in places. I also looked at the paint some more and it may have been originally just a dark chocolate brown. I also see from the post Tom sent back on March 18th that the dashes were not always wood grained.

Not sure if I have the skills or patients to do the wood grain so I will have to give Wood grain Specialist a call, paint it chocolate brown or learn a new skill. I definitely have something to think about. BTW Jim I will study the email you sent on how to make the wood grain pattern some more before I forge a ahead. Thanks to all for the support!!!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I am restoring a ’30 Model B 7 passenger. The dash is dark brown and looking a bit rough. I am wondering if the dark brown is original or was it redone in the past? Was it faux wood? Any trick to getting the chrome that surrounds the gages with out destroying them?

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Thanks Craig, Bill and Jim, this makes sense and very helpful.

Jim I hope your project is going well. I’m in the chrome prep phase on mine and have a whole new appreciation for the effort it takes to get pits and scratches out.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hi Arnold just wanted to check in to see if you would have a chance to send us a picture of the UUR-2 carb and choke linkage? I think i see Dave Stevens and Greg were looking for some help with that too.

Take care,

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Arnold the pictures of the UUR-2 would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Dave Schaefer

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Oh ok Craig sorry I missed that in your message that your carb is a UU-2. The carb I have is a UUR-2. I have parts that I think go with it but not real sure how they go together. I will keep digging and hopefully figure it out. Thanks for your offer I really appreciate it.

[Author]

Posts